Before I bought my 96 w/ 106K I had it inspected at a local Toyota dealer, I was mainly interested in the head gasket condition. Had them do a compression test and general inspection of the rest of the truck.
Results in PSI
#1 157
#2 145
#3 162
#4 160
#5 160
#6 155
Average 157 PSI
He sprayed some light spray lube in 1 and 2 and then got
#1 162
#2 155
The FSM is a little vague calls for “171 psi or more” and “Minimum pressure: 128 psi” seams an awfully wide range and why the two ranges?
Conditions called for in the FSM
Warm engine
Intake hose removed
Throttle wired open
Battery maintains charge
I have been hearing good things about AutoRx on the oil forum in general the one that really caught my attention was compression tests before and after AutoRx. (also check out the photo’s ) The supposed mechanism being that sludge can keep rings from seating and making a good seal, as long as they are not worn you can get some of the compression back by removing the sludge. so I finally paid for 3 bottles to do 2 cycles. I wanted to see if I could repeat his success.
Today 30K and 1.5 years after the other test I rechecked the compression as a control expecting to get about the same results as the dealer mechanic.
6-8-05 131,848 miles
About 4:30 pm engine shutdown after town run on w/ AC on
5:06 PM
Ambient temperature 88°
CHT 212°
Start disassembly
(Burn fingers, sweat like a dog leaning over hot engine)
5:25 pm start test
CHT 170°
#1 205
#2 197
#3 205
#4 205
#5 207
#6 207
5:38 pm end of test
CHT 159°
Average 204 PSI
5:45 pm start second round
CHT 154°
#1 206
#2 197
#3 205
5:50 pm end second round
CHT 152°
5:53 pm
Battery
Voltage 12.78 main, 12.90 aux,
Temperature 112° main 117° aux
(only main used for test)
Installed new plugs, rotor and cap, wires inspect OK.
Temps taken with IR thermometer pointed at greasy spot on front of head, comparison value only when used on aluminum like this.
#2 is still lower than the rest but not by as much as before , First thought was slightly better cleaning ability of synthetic oil actually paid off but that cannot be it, not that drastic,
other thought was different compression testers used, I am using a new Mac tester, could be that his read low or mine reads high or a combination of both,
The battery that came with my 80 for the first test was under sized and colder weather to boot, cranking speed was lower, today the battery was oversized and also much warmer (112°).
the dealer mechanic let it sit in the parking lot for quite a wile before even getting to it and the compressing test was done near the end of the inspection, motor was luke warm at best, Toyota calls for a warm engine I cant picture how much difference that would make though, coming back to the first 3 cylinders there was virtually no change despite the 30 degree drop
Any Idea’s on what brought the 50 PSI indicated increase? Could the compression have actually gone up or would different test conditions make for that much of a change?
Dino oil and Arx will go in tomorrow if it does not rain. I’ll try to update this thread with any info along the way, I am trying to see if this stuff is actually worth the money they want for it and if it will have any positive effects on a normal 1FZ.
a side question the old plugs have a brown ring on the ceramic (tube side) at first looked like a rusty water line stain but the tubes, metal hex and washer did not show any of this residue (some oil but no rust stain) , I don’t remember that on the first set of plugs I pulled out, anybody seen this before? The working end of the plugs has some light ash and fouling about nothing to bad. The electrodes had not worn much.
Truck idles a lot smoother with the new plugs cap and rotor I think 30K is going to be my interval for them, 100K or so on the wires.
Results in PSI
#1 157
#2 145
#3 162
#4 160
#5 160
#6 155
Average 157 PSI
He sprayed some light spray lube in 1 and 2 and then got
#1 162
#2 155
The FSM is a little vague calls for “171 psi or more” and “Minimum pressure: 128 psi” seams an awfully wide range and why the two ranges?
Conditions called for in the FSM
Warm engine
Intake hose removed
Throttle wired open
Battery maintains charge
I have been hearing good things about AutoRx on the oil forum in general the one that really caught my attention was compression tests before and after AutoRx. (also check out the photo’s ) The supposed mechanism being that sludge can keep rings from seating and making a good seal, as long as they are not worn you can get some of the compression back by removing the sludge. so I finally paid for 3 bottles to do 2 cycles. I wanted to see if I could repeat his success.
Today 30K and 1.5 years after the other test I rechecked the compression as a control expecting to get about the same results as the dealer mechanic.
6-8-05 131,848 miles
About 4:30 pm engine shutdown after town run on w/ AC on
5:06 PM
Ambient temperature 88°
CHT 212°
Start disassembly
(Burn fingers, sweat like a dog leaning over hot engine)
5:25 pm start test
CHT 170°
#1 205
#2 197
#3 205
#4 205
#5 207
#6 207
5:38 pm end of test
CHT 159°
Average 204 PSI
5:45 pm start second round
CHT 154°
#1 206
#2 197
#3 205
5:50 pm end second round
CHT 152°
5:53 pm
Battery
Voltage 12.78 main, 12.90 aux,
Temperature 112° main 117° aux
(only main used for test)
Installed new plugs, rotor and cap, wires inspect OK.
Temps taken with IR thermometer pointed at greasy spot on front of head, comparison value only when used on aluminum like this.
#2 is still lower than the rest but not by as much as before , First thought was slightly better cleaning ability of synthetic oil actually paid off but that cannot be it, not that drastic,
other thought was different compression testers used, I am using a new Mac tester, could be that his read low or mine reads high or a combination of both,
The battery that came with my 80 for the first test was under sized and colder weather to boot, cranking speed was lower, today the battery was oversized and also much warmer (112°).
the dealer mechanic let it sit in the parking lot for quite a wile before even getting to it and the compressing test was done near the end of the inspection, motor was luke warm at best, Toyota calls for a warm engine I cant picture how much difference that would make though, coming back to the first 3 cylinders there was virtually no change despite the 30 degree drop
Any Idea’s on what brought the 50 PSI indicated increase? Could the compression have actually gone up or would different test conditions make for that much of a change?
Dino oil and Arx will go in tomorrow if it does not rain. I’ll try to update this thread with any info along the way, I am trying to see if this stuff is actually worth the money they want for it and if it will have any positive effects on a normal 1FZ.
a side question the old plugs have a brown ring on the ceramic (tube side) at first looked like a rusty water line stain but the tubes, metal hex and washer did not show any of this residue (some oil but no rust stain) , I don’t remember that on the first set of plugs I pulled out, anybody seen this before? The working end of the plugs has some light ash and fouling about nothing to bad. The electrodes had not worn much.
Truck idles a lot smoother with the new plugs cap and rotor I think 30K is going to be my interval for them, 100K or so on the wires.
