Compression test results and questions, AutoeRx theory, and spark plug?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

hooked up the compression tester to two different gauged pressure sources both with current calibration,

first a shop air regulator with a 2" 0-160 PSI Dixon gage first column is Dixon reading second is Mac compression tester, our shop air tops out at just over 115 PSI so that is as far as I could go with it.

20-24
40-45
60-67
80-89
100-108
115-123

then a tire service cart with a 6" 0-600 psi Ashcroft gauge

50-54
100-104
150-154
200-203


the three do not agree but do fall within a reasonable range with the compression tester being the highest.
 
not too far off
so does this mean you have a race engine now?
 
E, Not sure what to make of it. Maybe the after results will shed some light.


Update,
Today after 31 days & 1,840 miles I drained the and oil & Arx and put in supertech 10w-40 dino alone for a rinse cycle, It was suppose to be 1,500 miles, I went a little over, that is not suppose to reduce it’s effectiveness.

Oil had darkened to dark brown about like pancake syrup. Cut open the filter and first glace shows only a few very small bits of carbon, I carefully cut out the element and am going to drain it overnight and take some pics. No change in varnish visible under oil cap.

I was about half a quart low witch makes my consumption rate about the same as before. Still have new wet oil at the bottom of the bell housing.

So far no conclusive indications that AutoRx is doing anything, I am going to give it time supposedly this rinse cycle that I started today is where the stuff starts coming loose. Have one more cleaning cycle and one more rinse cycle to do after this.

I will check compression again when all the cycles are finished.
 
Just what is in post #23, so far nothing but its early yet, only ~1/4 of the way through. I wont have anything close to definitive until all the cycles are done.


Edit, opps that right pics of the filter, hold on a second.
 
Here are the two of the more interesting pleats of the filter from the 1,840 mile cleaning cycle of Arx.; there is a small amount of carbon, almost nothing (the black specs near the crease) There are also little bits of what look like metal, these are the two largest, metal flake was regular occurrence on my Chevy (much more than this) , first I have seen it on the LX.

arxc1f1.jpg

arxc1f2.jpg


I know I have some heavy varnish and light sludge in the motor, hopefully some of it will come out in the next rinse cycle



Here is 20004 element from the recent 5.5K mile M1 0w-40 run, nothing to see. Note the weird depth filtration media.

20004.jpg




For comparison here is a filter from an F-150 at the same stage as mine

5x03nd


http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=003332#000000
 
Hmm second phase, "1st rinse phase" 2,000 miles and just over a month with just oil. This puts me in the middle of the total "treatment", I should be seeing something by now, the oil filter is still draining but I cannot see anything in the pleats, I might find a few small bits when I cut and string out the paper. but not what I was expecting. The two area's of funk I can easily monitor, the dip stick cross hatches and under the fill cap both look the same as when I started.

Rear main is still leaking, hard to tell if it is less then before on these short OCI’s but the bottom of the bell housing is still wet, I wipe it off every time I change the oil.

This round instead of putting in the recommended 16oz I put in all I had left, ~20oz in the same 10w-40 Wal-Mart Supertech, I am suppose to drive on that for 1,000 miles then a 2-3K rinse cycle of just the dino oil then after that back to normal (~5K w/ Mobil 1) hopefully that all be done before I drive to Florida in late September, I woudl prefer not to make that trip on dino oil.
 
well, what's the latest?
Inquiring minds want to know.... :)
 
did an oil change yesterday (late) this is the last cycle. about 2-3k miles to go.
 
After this a lot BS happened with work and I never got to a follow up compression reading.

from just what I can see from the fill port there was not much of a reduction if any.

the real info would an increase in compression via better seating rings, but I already had overly high compression :confused: from I assume carbon deposits on the piston top and bottom of head, not an oiled area so A-RX would not help there
 
Oh BTW no improvement in rear main/pan arch leak or oil consumption.
 
RavenTai said:
Oh BTW no improvement in rear main/pan arch leak or oil consumption.
Click to expand...

I don't think you will fix your arch pan seal leak with RX.
What mine was doing when it was leaking was the sealant some how was pushed out inside the motor. Oil would puddle there and leak through the lack of sealant.
There was lack of adhesion to the arch and rear main retainer.
 
I did not think it would either, just wanted to note it as that is one of the advertised effects of A-rx, I actually have a rear main seal leak ( radial oil streaks on flywheel) I may also have a pan arch, I loose a quart ever 2 or 3 K or so, at that rate not too worries about it.
 
Likely you have a rear main retainer leak, that is what I was talking about.
There must of been a flaw on some of the motors when it was installed.
It would be very hard to tell the diff between a rear main and rear main retainer leak unless you just replace the rear main seal without removing the retainer like I did.
The oil runs out just like a rear main leak.
A good way to check your self is to just replace the seal and drive it. That way you might get to drop the tranny twice:cool:

All my leaks (arch, timing change cover etc) went away with the use of RotellaT syn.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom