starter motor contacts changed today (1 Viewer)

I changed the starter contacts today, just to let you know how I did it.
All done from wheel arch.
Removed front wheel (starter side) pull off the rubber water guard, remove auto box dip stick, undo the two screws that hold the auto box dip stick in place, one on inlet manifold and other just below starter motor, leave the two small hoses connected! then just pull upper out of the lower half of the dip stick and move to one side and push a small bit of tissue into the lower half of dipstick to stop debris entering the auto sump.
Remove the + terminal off the battery, then remove the two connections on starter motor, one is a push connector and the other is secured with a nut and washer.
Remove the two bolts that secure the motor to the bell housing, I used a 17mm open/ring combination spanner, I put the ring end on the bolt head and used a 19mm ring spanner on the end of the 17mm so to use as leverage, sounds confusing if you have never done this, but just put the ring end of a spanner on the open end of a spanner and try it, it works great, then remove motor out through the wheel arch area.
Then just remove the plate/cover which is held with three small screws, the rest is quite easy, just remove the contacts and replace as they were removed, just before you fully tighten the contactor bolts, gently tap down the contacts so they are flush with the inner of the plunger housing, flat/level.
replacement of the starter is just the reverse of removal.
Like I say all can be done from the wheel arch area, it really is quite a simple job to do.
Tools needed are....
10mm spanner to remove batt terminals.
12mm to remove auto box dip stick tube.
17mm open ring plus 19mm open ring (leverage spanner) for starter housing bolts.
14mm ring spanner for terminal nuts.
8mm ring spanner for contactor cover
It's probably better to purchase a new plunger as well as the contacts, as this wears too, but I just rubbed flat with emery paper, but if I had known, I would have replaced plunger too, if it plays up again, I will replace all parts.

A very detailed and comprehensive write up!

Hi gold finger.... hope it helps somebody who looks it up, how is Wales? not been there this winter, you didnt seem to have any snow!!! it was quite a good a here in the south of England for a change, I loved it!, but snow only lasts a couple of days at the most.

Snowwolfwarrior, we must be on the same repair path. I just completed the replace ment of the rear rotors. I did have some problems with the parking brake adjust ments but nothing a little time could not fix. I am next moving to the starter contacts. Thanks for the write up and keep up the good work.

Vince

snowwolfwarrior said:

Hi gold finger.... hope it helps somebody who looks it up, how is Wales? not been there this winter, you didnt seem to have any snow!!! it was quite a good a here in the south of England for a change, I loved it!, but snow only lasts a couple of days at the most.

Click to expand...

It was a very good right up that doted the I's and crossed the T's, it does not leave the uninitiated wondering what was meant or assume knowledge of the reader many of whom may not have a FSM including me as they seem impossible to get hold of especially the diesel. I have considered getting a US one just for the chassis.

We only had a small amount of snow in this part of Wales more up North Wales in Gog Land; we seem to be getting less and less each year about 8 years ago I was stranded in very deep snow in the Preseli Mountains, what we seem to get is a tremendous amount of rain instead, I quite envy friends in Scotland who can be cut off through heavy snow for weeks at a time.

Starter Contacts

Thanks Snowwolf. The 17mm/19mm wrench process was a welcome trick. Made the job much easier. I just did it with your post printed off laying on the floor beside me. Saved me tons of frustration. Thanks again.

Brian

Very good write up and a very good angle of attack in terms of taking out other obstacles. Not to detour this great thread but I'm thinking that this process also helps the angle of attack for doing the pesky heater hose. Perhaps future orders of either starter contacts/starter plunger OR future orders of pesky heater hose replacements should include the other thing as well. IOW, when you get the contacts/plunger, you also get the replacement hose (BTW, another detour, how come no one seems to get OEM phh hose???). Anyways, good write up.

Gold Finger said:

It was a very good right up that doted the I's and crossed the T's, it does not leave the uninitiated wondering what was meant or assume knowledge of the reader many of whom may not have a FSM including me as they seem impossible to get hold of especially the diesel. I have considered getting a US one just for the chassis.

We only had a small amount of snow in this part of Wales more up North Wales in Gog Land; we seem to be getting less and less each year about 8 years ago I was stranded in very deep snow in the Preseli Mountains, what we seem to get is a tremendous amount of rain instead, I quite envy friends in Scotland who can be cut off through heavy snow for weeks at a time.

Click to expand...

Try looking for Australian books on the Landcruiser. I have one by Max Ellery that covers 1990-2002 that includes my engine. It's not really an FSM but more of a trouble shooting guide but it appears very complete as to electricals.


Kalawang

turbocruiser said:

...how come no one seems to get OEM phh hose?...

Click to expand...

Because one would not want go to so much trouble to do the replacement and use a hose that fails prematurely.

Rich said:

Because one would not want go to so much trouble to do the replacement and use a hose that fails prematurely.

Click to expand...

Ok, maybe I got the wrong message but many many many moons ago there was a thread about the actual rubber compound of that PHH and that it reacted in an accelerated way to the Toyota Red, also that the compound was later modified to last longer??? Maybe the message was avoid that thing altogether and get another brand BECAUSE OF the other compounds available??? Someone clarify if you can please. Thanks.

I used Gates Green Stripe heater hose for replacement. The inner layer of the hose is almost twice as thick as the inner layer of the stock Toyota hose. It is touted by Gates to be very long lived and equivalent in performance to silicone hose (which Gates also sells). Others use silicone hose which has very good high heat tolerance, at the expense of being somewhat more subject to physical damage from clamps and also subject to cold leaks. Appropriate clamps mitigate both of those problems.

I've not come across any information specific to the Toyota hose other than its actual lifespan in use.

The OEM hose is nothing more than a 50mm segment of standard 16mm heater hose. In fact, the OEM replacement hose, 99556-30100, is a 100mm section of cut-to-fit hose. It is reasonable to expect that the replacement hose will last as long as the original did, which means that you would need to replace it at least twice before the engine comes out of the frame for an overhaul. In view of the difficulty in replacing that hose when the engine is in-frame, I would opt for the most durable hose possible.


D-