Steering U-Joint Replacement (1 Viewer)

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NocalFJ60

NocalFJ60

Joined
Aug 2, 2004
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After rebuilding front axle and all new tie rods and drag links, I still have slop in my steering. The u-joint in the picture below # 35 & #39 have a lot of slop and want to replace the u-joint. What is right way to get it out and replace it? Do you have to pull the steering column ?

Anybody replaced it?

Thanks
picx.gif
 
u can get them out while still in the truck but it is a bitch. I did mine and it sure got rid of the slop. Plus my wheel spins back now. It shows 2 different #'s but the spiders are the same no rag joint which i thought is weird. i did need alot of heat and i soaked them with tabasco sauce for like a week before attempting to do them. Mine were very rusty though.
 
Use great care when loosening and separating the clamp joints on the steering shaft. It doesn't take much force from a screwdriver spreading the clamp to break it half. There are grease zerks in the shaft. A shot of grease helped my spline joint for about a week - then the click noise came back.
 
I finally got the parts and am changing the two # 35 joints.I got literally nothing in the engine bay so I have plenty of room.

Anybody got a good idea for a tool to use to spread the clamps apart to get them out. I have been putting penetrating oil on them to help loosen them up.
 
I haven't done this procedure yet, but in anticipating it, I've started thinking it through, somewhat.

I can try to give you whatever help I can, for what it's worth. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
You don't necessarily have to pull the clamps apart too much.

First make all your match marks on every piece.
Starting with the intermediate assembly. Loosen the one bolt down by the steering box, and then remove the other up by the firewall.

Now, I believe that the area within the rubber boot compresses. Compress the shaft dislodging the bottom and then pull out the shaft from the top.

Again, this is my best shot not having done this yet myself.

.
 
This may sound like a newb question.. but I've had a hard time sourcing those parts... where are you getting them S$R?
 
You can get the steering ujoints at any dealer... or try napa.
 
FWIW, some stuff I learned when doing mine:

You can't get just the U-joints From Toy - you have to buy whole shaft assemblies.

The SOR u-joints are nice because they have a zirc to lube the spiders.

That "click" in the steering we all seem to get generally comes from play in the slip joint.

The slip joint for the 87s (maybe some 86s) is a totally different design than the earlier ones (probably to address the click issue).
 
Hm. I just priced the ujoints from a dealer a few months ago.
 
I got some OEM Toyota ones from SOR since the dealer could only get the whole shaft.

When you say slip joint you are talking about where they connect at #38 in picture? The play in my steering seems to be in the upper joint. I will check the slip joint too.
 
NocalFJ60 said:
When you say slip joint you are talking about where they connect at #38 in picture? The play in my steering seems to be in the upper joint. I will check the slip joint too.
Click to expand...
I think #38 is the rubber boot that goes over the slip joint, which is indicated in 2 pieces as #630 (I think).

I replaced both u-joints assuming the click had to be coming from them, but when that didn't fix it some more investigation led me to the slip joint.
 
Cruisergreg said:
I replaced both u-joints assuming the click had to be coming from them, but when that didn't fix it some more investigation led me to the slip joint.
Click to expand...

Did you replace the slip joint? Did that eliminate the click?
 
If you have an '82, you also have the grease fitting at the slip joint.
It's at the ujoint end, #630 in the graphic.
If you haven't yet, try shooting some grease in there

.
 
lovetoski said:
Did you replace the slip joint? Did that eliminate the click?
Click to expand...
Once I realized the click wasn't coming from something that was about to cause a catastrophic steering failure I began to ignore it. I have a later type slip joint somewhere in the garage but haven't gotten around to putting it in.

As has been suggested, keeping the joint well-greased helps. My click was also greatly reduced when I added a mild body lift, which changed the spline mating surfaces.
 
Follow up...

The dealer parts guys must be overlooking the number.

The spider part# is 04371-10011. ;)

.
 
jwest said:
Follow up...

The dealer parts guys must be overlooking the number.

The spider part# is 04371-10011. ;)
Click to expand...
Hmmm....

Ordinarily I would make the same assumption, but the parts droid that researched the part for me was C-Dan and he's usually adept at finding obscure items.
 
That might be the part number. But if I remember right the parts guy got a number and then looked it up in the computer for price/availablity and said it was discontinued. The said I had to buy the whole assembly for like $100 +.

Let use know if the dealer orders them and you get them.
 
jwest said:
Follow up...

The dealer parts guys must be overlooking the number.

The spider part# is 04371-10011. ;)

.
Click to expand...

Just did a search on www.discounttoyotaparts.com....found the part in less than a second...


Part Number Search Results : Mechanical Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
0437110011 $28.62 $0.00 $21.47
Steering column - Joint
JOINT, Land Cruiser - LAND CRUISER 1984 - 1990
Add to Cart Contact Us
 
I did the first one tonight. It is kinda a pain to get them out. I pulled the end of the slip joint so I could put it in a vise. If you look at the new part, the four ends come off the joint. The only way I found to get the four ends off is to hammer from one side and push the other side out enough to grab it with some pliers and pull the bearing or end piece of the joint. The trick is you have to pull all four out the outside of the joint. I will try and take some pictures. The one right next to the firewall is going to be bear. I am going to try and take it out too if it is not too much trouble. I would hate to pull the steering wheel column.
 
Removing the whole column isn't as hard as it looks. 6(?) bolts under the the dash and a couple of wire plugs to pull and its out.
 
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