Steering U-Joint Replacement

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U-joint

I used the int. shaft from an 82 mini truck on my 40. The joints in it look the same as those of a 60. If so, they're rear driveshaft joints from late 70's to early 80's Toyota Starlets and Corollas.
 
Also, the firewall u-joint isn't hard mounted to the column shaft. At the end of the column behind the joint is a wire clip which holds a bearing. Pull the clip and the whole joint will come out of the column on a double-D shaft.
 
I am trying to pull the joint out at the firewall to change the spyder joint. I removed a big clip ring on outside and see another small snap ring back in behind the joint inside cab. Do I need to loosen the bolt inside that cab that holds the joint in steering column so I can pull it all out at once or do I need to remove the steering column. I have the FSM but it is not clear and sounds like what was said above I don't have to pull the column.
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I ended up pulling the steering column which was not bad. Then I pulled the whole column out and pulled the joint by firewall through the firewall into cab. I didn't take off the steering wheel and sat it upside down on the steering wheel on the ground. Then loosed the bolt #128 holding #624 rod and was able to pull it all out at once.

I think most of the slop I had was in the joint right by the firewall.I can post some pictures if anyone is going to be doing this soon.
 
Yes please post pics because my steering clicking/clunking was NOT my wheel bearings after all. I think it is the U-joint. Did you have to remove brake booster etc.?

thanks alot
 
I will take somemore pictures. I didn't have to remove my brake booster. I think you could do it without removing anything too big. I don't have my engine in now so getting to it is no issue.I could feel it in the joint by the firewall before I took it out. If you hold the piece right next to firewall, and then turn the piece on other side of joint you could feel a small amount of slop. Their is one joint in the steering column but it is tight and seems to be in good shape.I have replaced about everything in my steering after this so it should be tight now.

I would jack up the front and turn it lock to lock and try and localize where the noise is coming from.
 
NocalFJ60 said:
I will take somemore pictures. I didn't have to remove my brake booster. I think you could do it without removing anything too big. I don't have my engine in now so getting to it is no issue.I could feel it in the joint by the firewall before I took it out. If you hold the piece right next to firewall, and then turn the piece on other side of joint you could feel a small amount of slop. Their is one joint in the steering column but it is tight and seems to be in good shape.I have replaced about everything in my steering after this so it should be tight now.

I would jack up the front and turn it lock to lock and try and localize where the noise is coming from.
NorcalFJ60,

Please post a follow-up once you get the rig up and on the road. It sounds like you followed the exact same process as me to remove the "click" as everyone calls it. With the replacement of each part I did the click seemed to go away, for a while. It was only then I realized that every time I worked on the steering column I would shoot a bit on grease in the slipjoint zirc. This would temporarily remove the play.

Kept me scratching my head for years...
 
Cruisergreg said:
Hmmm....

the parts droid that researched the part for me was C-Dan



:flipoff2:

Caught ya.
 
NocalFJ60 said:
I am trying to pull the joint out at the firewall to change the spyder joint. I removed a big clip ring on outside and see another small snap ring back in behind the joint inside cab. Do I need to loosen the bolt inside that cab that holds the joint in steering column so I can pull it all out at once or do I need to remove the steering column. I have the FSM but it is not clear and sounds like what was said above I don't have to pull the column.


Sorry I didn't respond sooner, the winter semester started. I didn't have to pull any steering column bolts, just the outer weird shaped clip on the forward side of the column, at the end of the column. The bearing shouldn't have to come off the u-joint. A little cohersion should slide the joint out of the column. It sticks into the end of the column about 8-10 inches and is the female end of a double-D collapsable shaft.
 
So I replaced the first spider joint tonight. I used a socket to hammer in the bearing holder on one side until it got past the groove so I could put in the snap ring. Then I hammered with a socket on the other side to get it past the groove so I could put in the other snap ring. The spider was not moving freely and saw that one of the pieces broke.

Looks like I am going to have to pull this back out and order another set. I am thinking I will take it up to a machine shop and have them do them with a press.The Toyota kit comes with 4x1.25mm snap rings.Maybe I need some smaller snap rings next time.

Any ideas?
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Resurrecting an old thread! I'm trying to replace the upper u joint in the discussion above (next to the firewall) and can't get it out. So I'm stuck pulling the intermediate shaft out. I've loosened the nut holding it in, pryed at it, pulled at it, sprayed it with penetrating oil and no luck. Is there a split ring holding the shaft in? Once the bolt holding it in behind the tilt steering spider joint is out, shouldn't it slide out in the engine bay? please provide advice.
 
Resurrecting an old thread! I'm trying to replace the upper u joint in the discussion above (next to the firewall) and can't get it out. So I'm stuck pulling the intermediate shaft out. I've loosened the nut holding it in, pryed at it, pulled at it, sprayed it with penetrating oil and no luck. Is there a split ring holding the shaft in? Once the bolt holding it in behind the tilt steering spider joint is out, shouldn't it slide out in the engine bay? please provide advice.

I cheated, just swapped the column for one in better shape.

If you just want to replace the ujoint, pull the entire column. It's not very hard and will make it very easy to access the offending ujoint. Sounds much harder than it actually is.

Pull the heater duct
Pull the trim off behind the wheel
Two quick disconnects for the wiring
Four bolts at the fire wall
Two bolts holding the column up

And out she comes. It really is that simple.

Here's a pic of what you end up. And no you don't have to remove the steering wheel if you don't want to. It only took me about an hour to swap the columns but I have had a few wagons torn apart.

Tony
steering column 001.jpg
 
Resurrecting an old thread! I'm trying to replace the upper u joint in the discussion above (next to the firewall) and can't get it out. So I'm stuck pulling the intermediate shaft out. I've loosened the nut holding it in, pryed at it, pulled at it, sprayed it with penetrating oil and no luck. Is there a split ring holding the shaft in? Once the bolt holding it in behind the tilt steering spider joint is out, shouldn't it slide out in the engine bay? please provide advice.

I tried doing it in place and had no luck. I ended up pulling the steering column like Tony is saying post # 33. Good luck
 
Some of these threads tend to be confusing as different models use different components.
I have an 89 FJ 62 and the ujoints on the steering shaft are not the same at all. The lower one is much smaller.
Also,there are no fittings on the shaft at all.
Any infor for an FJ62?
 
That part number brings up the 395 ujoint, which is the big one.
 
That part number brings up the 395 ujoint, which is the big one.

On the FJ62, only the large u-joint located near the firewall is replaceable. The small joint near the steering box cannot be replaced by itself. Instead, you must buy the entire lower steering shaft as as an assembly (expensive). To replace the upper joint, remove the steering column--not hard and will make removing the old u-joint a breeze.
 
Thanks. I thoroughly inspected the steering shaft, shook it around, turned it with engine on and off and found absolutely no play in the upper or lower ujoint.
I have all new tie rod ends, wheel bearings, trunion bearings, so not sure where else to go for the steering slop.
Also have that knock or thud feel.
 

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