Brand New Carb..now Runs worse!

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4lowNgo

4lowNgo

Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Threads
103
Messages
266
Location
Rogue Valley
Website
www.dereksvoice.com
Few months ago the truck started running really choppy, almost a sputter at times, trusted shop said it needed a new carburetor.

I saved up (the courage to use the credit card), made the purchase on a brand new OEM, they put it on yesterday and now it runs even worse! Lagging, even cutting out/bucking.

What did they do wrong???

No mods on the rig... fully stock with smog stuff. They think the spark plugs may be the culprit.

Help me help them help my FJ!

Also..where can I get a diagram of the vacuum hoses (I plan to replace with new this weekend).

Thanks very much!
 
my 1st guess is they got some of the vacuume lines on wrong.
 
Definitely confirm the vac hose connections. The only good source I've found for that is the Toyota emissions book. If you can't find one, PM me and I'll send you some pictures. I'm betting the problem isn't the carb. Maybe ignition or fuel pump. They should have checked the plugs before rec'ing the carb. Plugs are cheap and easy. If the plugs are good. Replace the cap and rotor. When the cap is off, inspect the inside if the dizzy to make sure the pickup sensor is securely mounted and the mech advance is in good shape. It could be an igniter issue but check all the cheap stuff first. How old is the fuel pump? Fuel filter? When its bucking and running poorly, pull over and check the fuel level in the carb. It should be in the middle of the carb window. If the fuel level is good, I'd try to find someone with a spare used igniter and coil to swap in. That should narrow down the source of the problem.
 
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Get 3mm vacuum line from McMaster carr or OEM lines don't get a standard size that doesn't fit completely. I would first check the vacuum lines to carb especially the ones on inside of carb by the valve cover (look above at the first pic Landimp on the right top where it says advancer port). There are 4 lines on the carb there. You will have to take off the air cleaner housing to check them. They might of not set the idle mixture and/or idle speed correctly. The factory carb might have the idle mixture screw capped off so that might not be it.
 
new OEM carbs come with all new vac lines on the carb.

yes both the mixture and idle speed are capped off

NocalFJ60 said:
Get 3mm vacuum line from McMaster carr or OEM lines don't get a standard size that doesn't fit completely. I would first check the vacuum lines to carb especially the ones on inside of carb by the valve cover (look above at the first pic Landimp on the right top where it says advancer port). There are 4 lines on the carb there. You will have to take off the air cleaner housing to check them. They might of not set the idle mixture and/or idle speed correctly. The factory carb might have the idle mixture screw capped off so that might not be it.
Click to expand...
 
it could be the plugs, if they are fouled from running too rich or the choke on for too long, they could be causing some problems, gawd knows I pulled the carb on my 45 and had it gone thru only to find out that I had fouled the plugs when I left the 45 running with the choke on.........for WAY to long

PabloCruise said:
I think you might want to find a new shop???
Click to expand...
 
did you repalce the insulator plate underneath the carb? Also check and see if the shop removed the plastic like substance on the insulator plate that looks like a gasket, but is really not. If they removed part of it you will probably have a bad seal at the base of the carb and thus a bad vacuum leak. It took 2 tries for me to seal the carb to the insulator properly. Also check the air tube coming out of the side of the insulator plate. Make sure it is not loose. You can use some orange RTV to help seal everything up. Make sure you let it dry real well as it might still show a vac leak before it has time to set fully.

Rob
 
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Thanks everyone for the feedback!! There's plenty here to ponder. I'd love to find someone here in southern Oregon who knows these rigs. I trust my shop's honesty, I just think they don't know Cruisers. Anyone in Redding or Portland area whose a great mechanic? I'd make a trip if it was worth while.
 
I mean this respectfully....

Sorry to encourage this one....but I would head back to your trusted shop and ask for a refund. There are really no wear parts on a carb....maybe it needed rebuilding...but to buy a new OEM carb, before checking for vac leaks, basic tune ups, and less expensive parts....makes me question their ethics.

I hate arguing with service guys...but new carbs are definately not cheap. You are better off rebuilding the carb with a carb shop, then paying 250 for a real good tune up (cap, rotor, fuel filter, timing and idle adjustment). You would still come out with money in your pocket compared to buying a new carb.

Let us know how it goes. Sorry for your troubles.
 
4lo -
I took 24 shots of the virgin vac lines, etc. on my '84 with my 35mm & a macro zoom & had them enlarged to 8X10. They're a great companion to the emissions manual & Pimp's reprints. You may borrow them for free.
 
very cool! I also have tons of digital pics of the lines/routing I can send, as it happens its a new OEM carb.........;) (and no one talked me into it, I had my reasons ;)

Tinker said:
4lo -
I took 24 shots of the virgin vac lines, etc. on my '84 with my 35mm & a macro zoom & had them enlarged to 8X10. They're a great companion to the emissions manual & Pimp's reprints. You may borrow them for free.
Click to expand...
 
I just wanted to give you all an update and first say THANKS for all this great insight.

After taking the rig back, they found that there were some mis-appropriated vacuum lines, now she runs famously. I still plan on replacing the vac lines this weekend and it does need a tune-up.

As for the suggestion that the carb could still have been good, but with some minor fixin', well I guess I'm past the point of no return there. I have saved it, and I have another used one I had come across, and was curious about what to do with them? Pay to have them rebuilt then sell them?

Do you do your own tune-ups? What's involved with that? How do I test the dist. cap to see if it's worn? I'm pretty much a newb at this and not beyond a 2-banana job, so I usually rely on the "professionals".

Thanks again! The weekend's here... time to ride!
 
tune up is easy. If unsure of condition, just get some ND plugs, a OEM cap/rotor, new fuel/air filter(WIX is fine) check the date on the plug wires(OEM wires have the date) if original or old or non OEM, replace them(with OEM)

Might consider checking and if needed adjusting the valves

If its been running rich or anything for awhile, change the oil also

You will need a timing light to check timing, but its easy.

So you bought a new carb, no biggy, if nothing else its good piece of mind and you will have no worries for 100K+

As what to do wtih the carbs, keep one(nice to have a spare), sell the other(I might even be interested)

DO NOT replace the rest of the vac lines with anything but OEM, search for my post about cheaper OEM vac lines, you will still need a few(guessing 3) of the $10 1 meter lines as well. Replace ONLY one line at a time......

John

4lowNgo said:
I just wanted to give you all an update and first say THANKS for all this great insight.

After taking the rig back, they found that there were some mis-appropriated vacuum lines, now she runs famously. I still plan on replacing the vac lines this weekend and it does need a tune-up.

As for the suggestion that the carb could still have been good, but with some minor fixin', well I guess I'm past the point of no return there. I have saved it, and I have another used one I had come across, and was curious about what to do with them? Pay to have them rebuilt then sell them?

Do you do your own tune-ups? What's involved with that? How do I test the dist. cap to see if it's worn? I'm pretty much a newb at this and not beyond a 2-banana job, so I usually rely on the "professionals".

Thanks again! The weekend's here... time to ride!
Click to expand...
 
Try and get a copy of Jack Conrads (I think it was his) article on tuning via vacume gauge. It is the easiest way IMHO to tune a 2F. follow pimps list and t-in a vacume gauge to keep on you dash, you will find it a great indicator when something goes amiss.
 
vtcruiser60 said:
Sorry to encourage this one....but I would head back to your trusted shop and ask for a refund. There are really no wear parts on a carb....maybe it needed rebuilding...but to buy a new OEM carb, before checking for vac leaks, basic tune ups, and less expensive parts....makes me question their ethics.

I hate arguing with service guys...but new carbs are definately not cheap. You are better off rebuilding the carb with a carb shop, then paying 250 for a real good tune up (cap, rotor, fuel filter, timing and idle adjustment). You would still come out with money in your pocket compared to buying a new carb.

Let us know how it goes. Sorry for your troubles.
Click to expand...

Landpimp said:
it could be the plugs, if they are fouled from running too rich or the choke on for too long, they could be causing some problems, gawd knows I pulled the carb on my 45 and had it gone thru only to find out that I had fouled the plugs when I left the 45 running with the choke on.........for WAY to long
Click to expand...

I still think I would look for another shop.

It definitely could be the plugs! But they are the professionals in this transaction! Mr. 4Low went to them with a question/problem and they sold him a new carb. Saying "It could be the plugs" is unsat! Get your torque wrench out of your ass and check the freaking plugs!!!

On the other hand, the cruisers are a little bit older and not everyone feels comfortable working on them. I like doing my own work. So I bought all the manuals. The problem is specialty tools, and major procedures. My comprimise is to read here, and then talk to my buddy, who is a pro-wrench, and lends me his tools on the weekends...
 
4lowNgo said:
Thanks everyone for the feedback!! There's plenty here to ponder. I'd love to find someone here in southern Oregon who knows these rigs. I trust my shop's honesty, I just think they don't know Cruisers. Anyone in Redding or Portland area whose a great mechanic? I'd make a trip if it was worth while.
Click to expand...

Got the shop for you in Portland:

LandCruiser Northwest
1703 B NW 16th
Portland, OR 97209
503.224.5115
866.563.2777
www.landcruisernw.com

Ask for Tony or Matt. To say they know Cruisers is an understatement and they are good guys to boot.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60
 
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