PM report and some pics. (1 Viewer)

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OGBeno

OGBeno

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Hey all:

While I wait to figure out what the heck to do on this thermostat housing screw that I just broke off, I figured I'd report some findings of some other PM I've been working on.

1. New Tranny Pan.

I over-torqued the tranny pan drain plug, so I decided that this was an opportune time to replace the tranny pan, clean the filter and put a new one up.

Here are some pics. of the old tranny pan after I dropped it. It was pretty clean inside with no metal pieces to be seen. There were a few metal shavings--really minute ones latched onto the last magnet before the drain plug. Cleaned the magnets, and put them in the new tranny pan. Pulled the filter attached to the tranny underneath the pan--backflushed according to Raven's suggestions--and everything looked and smelled good!!

This first pic. is one of the tranny pan out. The second is of the magnet that had some minute shavings--you can see them protruding from the magnet (sorry about the pic. qualities). The third is of the filter after I unscrewed it off the tranny housing underneath the pan.
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Some more pics.

The first and second pics. are from underneath the truck looking up at where the tranny pan was. Everything looks real clean and just covered with the nice Mobil 1 red... :) Install pics. coming later after I try to figure out this thermo problem... :frown:
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PHH....argh....

2. PHH:

Well, this one was indeed a sucker, but I used Rick B.'s directions on Slee's tech. area on his homepage and following Rick's suggestions (thanks much Rick!!!), things went pretty smoothly except for the scrapes, bruises, and aching butt from awkward angles and the like. I put the NAPA green silicone with the red inside and used constant torque clamps on it. Looks pretty good and I think will last for a long time. The old piece I pulled was pretty good too, I think. It was harder (not too hard) but no signs of any real damage. I use the heater up here a lot in Ohio, so I think the possible damage might have been mitigated some...

First pic. is looking in through the wheel-well, with the wheel off and the skirts off. Also, notice the tranny dipstick is gone too--this is key for this job it seems, so the timing worked out well (Thanks Doug for the suggestion to do this now while the tranny dipstick is out).

The second is a wider view--the front DS (US) shock is to the left for reference...

Third is the old hose....
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gotta love those 'up skirt' shots!
 
More PHH...

First pic. is the inside view of the PHH after I cut it to get it off the nipple and the heater hose...

Second is of the new hose--thanks Rookie2!! :beer:

Third is the nipple and the heater hose as they look without the hose on the two of them...
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More PHH....

First shot is of the new hose attached prior to torquing down the new clamps. The key to getting the hose on was to apply ample amounts of spit (I'm sure the KY would work well here too...especially as Doc said, since it's 'up the skirt'--OH MY!! :cool:

I first took the heater hose screw off so I could get some wiggle room on the hose...the second pic. is looking at the screw that you have to take off to get this wiggle room. This pic. is from the PS (US) looking at the area where the heater hose goes down--the heater valve is to the left with the throttle body towards the right. You will notice two screws in the middle of the pic--one rusty brown color, one a steel color--unscrew the steel colored one...IIRC 12 or 13mm socket.

The third pic is of the hose attached and the socket on the clamp getting ready to clamp down...notice the contorted position your body, your arms will have to be in to get the wrench/socket into the opening and to get it on the clamp...this was knarly and caused much pain trying to get an angle to be able to turn the wrench enough to get a couple of clicks, then to have it fall down and to start again...this took forever!! It helped to pull a bit on the bunch of wires bound in gray and then push the socket up underneath it, then use both hands to push and put the socket on to the clamp...
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PHH final pic....

Completed!! Phew, a sigh of relief, get yourself a few :beer: :beer: as it takes time and patience. THough Rick mentions that he could do it under an hour the next time, I doubt that I could considering I get impatient quick and easy!! :rolleyes:
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Dude, you should be a hand model. Nice to get that damn PHH swapped out, now you don't have to worry about it and can rest easy.
 
Nice pictures. From the initial shot of your PHH, you are one lucky dude on the position of the block end spring clip as you found it. Ya bastidge. Looks like the clip was at around the 2 oclock position, which is what I've found twice. My latest was almost vertical against that lip - yowza.

Well done.

DougM
 
Thanks Doug--

Actually the block spring clip was much farther back behind...when I initially took the skirts off, I noticed the PHH and then saw the one clip on the heater hose side. The block spring clip was only showing the larger clip end...I couldn't see the smaller one where I could depress the two and move the clip...it took one hell of a long time to figure that out.

Since I was going to replace the hose and the clamps, I just busted the clip on the heater pipe side and then started cutting at the hose itself until I got to the block clip. Then I pulled the heater pipe away and off the hose to get a better angle at the darn clip, but it took me a pretty long time to get around the thing so I could get some pliers in there to clip it off.

I would say that the entire take-off, put hose back on corectly took about 4 hours or so, spead out over one or two hour chunks over three nights or so.

More pics. later....
-o-
 
Do you have to drain the coolant before replacing this PHH hose? I've been told by a Toy mechanic that you don't and you won't loose much coolant in swaping it if system isn't drained first? It's been on my To Do list, and made me curious. Good job and thanks for the pic's Beno.
 
Bryan,

I'll bet'cha a dollar that mechanic has no clue where this hose is. If you don't drain the cooling system, you'll lose gallons.

So Beno - what did you finally succeed with in terms of rotating that spring clip against the block. I think you'll agree that's really the whole ball game and the time, eh?

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
So Beno - what did you finally succeed with in terms of rotating that spring clip against the block. I think you'll agree that's really the whole ball game and the time, eh?
DougM
Click to expand...

I haven't done this on the cruiser yet, so excuse me if I'm wrong here...to rotate the clip, if you can not use a small flat head screw driver to push the other end, one could also use a metal wire, hook it to the un-seen clip, and pull it in the opposite direction.

Just a thought,
SJ
 
sjcruiser said:
I haven't done this on the cruiser yet, so excuse me if I'm wrong here...to rotate the clip, if you can not use a small flat head screw driver to push the other end, one could also use a metal wire, hook it to the un-seen clip, and pull it in the opposite direction.

Just a thought,
SJ
Click to expand...

Mine was rotated up about 2 o-clock too. I was somehow able to get a set of channel locks up there and get it on the tabs. Once I got it's teeth on the tabs, I took some fustrations out by squeezing the ever-living-dog-s*** out of it and rotating it around. I didn't even jerk around with the cotter pin one on the heater hose side... dremel with cutting wheel went through it like butta.

Nice work Beno. So what was the verdict on the tranny oil pan plug. Were the plug threads stripped, or had the nut weld on the inside of the pan broken loose as Dan prophesyde?

:beer:
Rookie2
 
It was a voodo pin right thru the welded ring....;)
 
Do you have to drain the coolant before replacing this PHH hose
Click to expand...

Bryan: I basically drained the radiator and the engine block, took out the thermostat, and pulled out the big hoses going into different parts of the heating and cooling system to get as much coolant out as possible. After that, I pulled the PHH and yes, about less than one quart of stuff came out of the PHH after I pulled it, but not that much considering I had pretty much enptied the entire system. Then did the flush according to E999999999999999's write up in the FAQ, and then started putting things back together. I would recommend draining everything if you are going to do the PHH, though I might be wrong... ;p

what did you finally succeed with in terms of rotating that spring clip against the block. I think you'll agree that's really the whole ball game and the time, eh?
Click to expand...

Definitely Doug--getting that spring clamp off the nipple side was a pain in the arse. It took me a long time to get comfortable with getting pliers, or needle nose pliers, or vice grips, etc. whatever I basically could to turn the spring along so I could access it fully to take it off. I think much of it was getting used to the pain of the scratches and the cuts on my arms and hands while doing this... :rolleyes: CJ says I have nice hands, but man they look more like a mechanic's than a doctoral students!! :doh:

So what was the verdict on the tranny oil pan plug. Were the plug threads stripped, or had the nut weld on the inside of the pan broken loose as Dan prophesyde?
Click to expand...

Hey Rook--well, when I brought the pan down the welded nut on the inside was still welded on the inside of the pan. But, there were metal shavings right near the nut, so my assumption is that I over torqued the drain plug or put it in wrong when I did my last tranny fluid exchange. I am going to make sure that from now on, if I get even a little resistence to stop and start again...I can't be shelling out cash for Dan's dogs all the time... ;) :flipoff2:

Thanks for the replies guys....things are on hold right now for a bit as I await the arrival of the thermostat housing studs. I have the fuel filter to do, the belts, the thermostat, the diff breathers, and I'll be all set hopefully for awhile. More pics to come as work gets done...I figure they might help someone else out as well.

Best regards all.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
BTW, I assume that's FIPG you're using to put the tranny pan back on?? Mine was black.
 
Well, I finally got my new tranny pan up on the transmission.

Here is a pic. of the tranny pan with the Toy. FIPG right before I went under and put it up. I used Raven's suggestion to put one side up, put a couple of screws in and then put it in place. Then I put on the rest of the screws just enough to get her down. Now the tough part was getting the damn dipstick/fill tube back on. Put the new O-ring on the upper tranny tube and then budged my way through the wheel-well and from above getting the two screws in position. It was tough--took about fifteen minutes or so of scraped knuckles, etc. The trick I found was the remove the two hoses that attach to the upper part of the distick--I assume they go right into the tranny in the back--at least as far as I could follow it. Then I was able to get the upper screw in place, get the bottom part into the lower tube part and then budge the lower screw into place. When it was done (about 4pm) I went to teach my classes and then came home around 10pm. Filled it up with about 6 quarts of M1 tranny fluid, started her up and drove around for about 1/2 hour. The reading on the stick was still by the cool, so I added about 3/4 of a quart and put it through all of the geras. Pulled it out, and voila--right in between 'cool' and 'hot'--perfect!! Feel quite good about taking care of that. Now, it should be completely solid by AM and I will have a nice powerline run in the AM...

Best regards and thanks to everyone who helped on on this venture.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
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Cheers!

DougM
 
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