So you have choice - a 2" body lift or a 2" suspension lift, whaddya choose?
What's better 'n' why??
What's better 'n' why??
Body Lift Vs Suspension Lift
- Thread starter PJHunter
- Start date
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cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
2" suspension lift.
Body lift does not give more clearance (your frame doesn't go higher) it only makes the truck higher. The ONLY reason I can think of for body lift is to fit way oversized tires. Besides the suspension lift is easier to do.
Body lift does not give more clearance (your frame doesn't go higher) it only makes the truck higher. The ONLY reason I can think of for body lift is to fit way oversized tires. Besides the suspension lift is easier to do.
crushers
post ho
suspension lift
reasons:
body lifts look cheap and tacky
body lifts allow for more movement between the body and frame leading to creaks and rattles
<body lift does how ever keep your center of gravity down allowing for larger tires>
suspension lift usually gives more travel between the axle housings and the bump stops giving (depending on the kit) a better ride over all.
most suspension kits give you new shocks, bushings, steering stabilizer, u bolts etc so you end up with more than just a lift, you end up with an entire suspension package.
a suspension package raises the enitre vehicle for more clearence to the frame but the ground clearence stays the same in either lift.
cheers
Wayne
reasons:
body lifts look cheap and tacky
body lifts allow for more movement between the body and frame leading to creaks and rattles
<body lift does how ever keep your center of gravity down allowing for larger tires>
suspension lift usually gives more travel between the axle housings and the bump stops giving (depending on the kit) a better ride over all.
most suspension kits give you new shocks, bushings, steering stabilizer, u bolts etc so you end up with more than just a lift, you end up with an entire suspension package.
a suspension package raises the enitre vehicle for more clearence to the frame but the ground clearence stays the same in either lift.
cheers
Wayne
hhhm...
it depends. (doesn't that help
)
I would definately start off with a suspension lift. This could be in the form of "arched" springs or a spring over axle.
After that you can consider a body lift to clear tires and to keep you center of gravity lower, and to maintain good spring flex and a comfortable ride if your goal is to run large tires.
I started off with a 50mm spring lift. I then went SOA, but found that the 10" of lift combined with the "arched" springs was WAY to high and stiff. I then removed the lifted springs and installed an almost new set of OEM springs. This left me with trying to figure out how to fit 38s and keep my COG as low as possible. I accomplished this with a 2" body lift. It has worked for me and I really enjoy the ride and amount of "lift" that is the result.
On edit: A mod should not be avoided becuase it looks "cheap and tacky" I would beg to differ on the look of my 2" lift on the 61 with new poly bushing body mounts. but hey, that's just me
HTH
it depends. (doesn't that help
)I would definately start off with a suspension lift. This could be in the form of "arched" springs or a spring over axle.
After that you can consider a body lift to clear tires and to keep you center of gravity lower, and to maintain good spring flex and a comfortable ride if your goal is to run large tires.
I started off with a 50mm spring lift. I then went SOA, but found that the 10" of lift combined with the "arched" springs was WAY to high and stiff. I then removed the lifted springs and installed an almost new set of OEM springs. This left me with trying to figure out how to fit 38s and keep my COG as low as possible. I accomplished this with a 2" body lift. It has worked for me and I really enjoy the ride and amount of "lift" that is the result.
On edit: A mod should not be avoided becuase it looks "cheap and tacky" I would beg to differ on the look of my 2" lift on the 61 with new poly bushing body mounts. but hey, that's just me
HTH
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HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
They tend to compliment eachother. I would not go more than 3" in a body lift, with 1-2" being better. But if you want to fit large tires it is often necessary to fit a body lift.
As long as you dont go higher than 3" you'll be fine.
Mr. Dude is correct in that I would go suspension FIRST. Then only go body lift if you need it for specific things.
TB
As long as you dont go higher than 3" you'll be fine.
Mr. Dude is correct in that I would go suspension FIRST. Then only go body lift if you need it for specific things.
TB
crushers
post ho
SOA is for anyone that likes to be on his side more than on his wheels.The Dude said:hhhm...
it depends. (doesn't that help
I would definately start off with a suspension lift. This could be in the form of "arched" springs or a spring over axle.
After that you can consider a body lift to clear tires and to keep you center of gravity lower, and to maintain good spring flex and a comfortable ride if your goal is to run large tires.
I started off with a 50mm spring lift. I then went SOA, but found that the 10" of lift combined with the "arched" springs was WAY to high and stiff. I then removed the lifted springs and installed an almost new set of OEM springs. This left me with trying to figure out how to fit 38s and keep my COG as low as possible. I accomplished this with a 2" body lift. It has worked for me and I really enjoy the ride and amount of "lift" that is the result.
On edit: A mod should not be avoided becuase it looks "cheap and tacky" I would beg to differ on the look of my 2" lift on the 61 with new poly bushing body mounts. but hey, that's just me
HTH
i have yet to see a body lift that looks good.
as far as i am concerned even the one on the box of my HZJ75 looks cheesy...
but then that is just me.
he asked about a 2" lift... so SOA is out...
;^P
;p
I like my cheeze!!
I honestly don't think they look bad on a 60 series.
I like my cheeze!!
I honestly don't think they look bad on a 60 series.
crushers
post ho
send be a side pic and i will be bluntly honest...
;^)
;^)
Sorry about the hijack!!
Now, I don't like the gap in the front but that will be fixed with the new front bumper I am working on.
but from the side, it's golden. I extended the front wheel well "flaps" and have a set made for the rear.
Now, I don't like the gap in the front but that will be fixed with the new front bumper I am working on.
but from the side, it's golden. I extended the front wheel well "flaps" and have a set made for the rear.
crushers
post ho
i sit corrected, a 60 does look alright.
nice job,
cheers
Wayne
nice job,
cheers
Wayne
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
crushers said:
Come one Wayne, now you're talking abosutes here. There have been more spring overs done in the 4x4 world than any other suspension. It's the easiest, cheapest way to get a lift AND suspension articulation. Articulation that you CANT get with a spring under.
TB
crushers
post ho
really?!?
SOA is great for mud and rock crawling, side hill and you will be on your side in a heart beat.
sorry i like low and stable.
to do a SOA PROPERLY it is not cheap. and then you end up running 38s and you better be good at replacing birfields. u joints get chewed up pretty quick also...
each to their own but if you do one you best have a good bank account. it keeps costing long after the lift is done...
cheers
Wayne
SOA is great for mud and rock crawling, side hill and you will be on your side in a heart beat.
sorry i like low and stable.
to do a SOA PROPERLY it is not cheap. and then you end up running 38s and you better be good at replacing birfields. u joints get chewed up pretty quick also...
each to their own but if you do one you best have a good bank account. it keeps costing long after the lift is done...
cheers
Wayne
- Thread starter
- #13
the whole reason i was asking is because my wife and i are intending to drive from Bristol, UK to Melbourne, Down Under and with all the additional weight i wasn't sure whether the suspension or body lift would be more appropriate.
given all your comments above i'll go with the suspension lift.
am I right in thinking that 2" is the max ideal lift? Anying above this would raise centre of gravity too much and place too much stress on other driveline components and steering geometry.
as for tyres, I'm running 31" at the moment and thought for the trip home we should use 35". This is because before now, i've come a cropper in mud gullies that I've needed a tow out of [where other's haven't] all because the side walls of my tyres just weren't quite high enough.
given all your comments above i'll go with the suspension lift.
am I right in thinking that 2" is the max ideal lift? Anying above this would raise centre of gravity too much and place too much stress on other driveline components and steering geometry.
as for tyres, I'm running 31" at the moment and thought for the trip home we should use 35". This is because before now, i've come a cropper in mud gullies that I've needed a tow out of [where other's haven't] all because the side walls of my tyres just weren't quite high enough.
crushers
post ho
no matter what size tires you run there will be a mud hole biggerl i have seen 53" tractor tires stuck and needing a winch out.
one thing to consider, if you go bigger the mor estuck you will be and this could be a cause for concern in the outback. if 31s get stuck usually a tug and you are out, 35s and the tug gets harder and with 53s then you need a good POWERFULL winch...
for long distance travel i would go with a 2 1/2" lift and 33" skinnies...
just my suggestion and opinion.
cheers
Wayne
one thing to consider, if you go bigger the mor estuck you will be and this could be a cause for concern in the outback. if 31s get stuck usually a tug and you are out, 35s and the tug gets harder and with 53s then you need a good POWERFULL winch...
for long distance travel i would go with a 2 1/2" lift and 33" skinnies...
just my suggestion and opinion.
cheers
Wayne
- Thread starter
- #15
Wayne
I'm really glad you say that as that was exactly my own opinion on suspension and tyres. It's always good to get a 2nd opinion. So thanks.
PJ
I'm really glad you say that as that was exactly my own opinion on suspension and tyres. It's always good to get a 2nd opinion. So thanks.
PJ
Might not be easy to find replacement 33's in some of the countries you be traveling though. Might not need replacements but driving loaded on rough roads could mean one spare won't be enough. Maybe look at the setups common to the countries you'd be in. A 7.5x16 ten ply will likely be available everywhere and is nearly as tall as most 33's. And I agree a 2.5" susp. lift will work best for you.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
PJHunter,
A word of advice from one who has also travelled great distances with the 'Cruiser. FIX EVERYTHING that is wrong with the truck before leaving home and make sure you are handy with the tools and capable of your own repairs. Some of the "mechanics" you will encounter are not the type you'll want to have working on your truck (assuming that you want it to continue to be as reliable as it likely has been to this point)!
I carry a full set of tools as well as some common spare parts such as belts, hoses, filters (TRD cleanable air filter) some selected seals, gasket paper, spare injectors, tire repair kit, cigarette lighter powered air pump (hey it's for emergencies only) and other stuff.
On the issue of spare tires some countries do not permit you to bring in unmounted spare tires (alledgedly due to agricultural concerns).
A word of advice from one who has also travelled great distances with the 'Cruiser. FIX EVERYTHING that is wrong with the truck before leaving home and make sure you are handy with the tools and capable of your own repairs. Some of the "mechanics" you will encounter are not the type you'll want to have working on your truck (assuming that you want it to continue to be as reliable as it likely has been to this point)!
I carry a full set of tools as well as some common spare parts such as belts, hoses, filters (TRD cleanable air filter) some selected seals, gasket paper, spare injectors, tire repair kit, cigarette lighter powered air pump (hey it's for emergencies only) and other stuff.
On the issue of spare tires some countries do not permit you to bring in unmounted spare tires (alledgedly due to agricultural concerns).
PJHunter said:
Thats a hell of a trip and one that has always fired my imagination since the days of the London to Sydney marathons
Whats your route?
Ive also heard that 2in is the maximum practicle lift for those without mods.
You might want to try the guys on http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=8
There is a few owners of Bundeeras/prado who know all about this stuff.
On the tyres I would be more worried about the oversize diameter bogging the engine down.
IMO for a an extended trip such as yours ,the closer to stock the better.
What is your drivetrain? Is this the KZJ you are talking about in other threads? 1KZ-TE? Slightly more HP then a 13BT and the same torque. 8.25R16 should not bog it too much, and you have access to some pretty bomb proof tires there to choose from (Michelin XZL 8.25 R16) or some other commercial grade 255/85R16's. This size, matched to a 50mm SUA lift would perhaps stand you well. I agree with Crushers: If I was to build an long haul expedition rig, it would be SUA with a 50mm lift, some bombproof tires (in 16"), chains, winch, sand ladder, and then all the spare parts as others have listed.
Nice thing about putting a 50mm lift underneath is you will be starting with new steel.
gb
Nice thing about putting a 50mm lift underneath is you will be starting with new steel.
gb
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- Thread starter
- #20
Thank you all very much for your help. It is appreciated.
The trip is a fair time away but such a trip takes a lot of planning and getting the vehicle right [and use used to driving it] is first on my list.
As for the route? We're not sure yet.... we just want to avoid the middle east [Iraq, Afganistan] for obvious reasons. So going through Russia, Siberia, Mongolia, China is one way. Going south through Europe and down through Africa is another [but I've read reports of ropey shipping agents when taking your car from their country to another].
The comments regarding about making sure I'm handy with a spanner and making sure we both have adequate spares is something my wife and i both agree with 100%. It's just as well I truely enjoy mechanics as a hobby - but truth be told I need to learn about the engine in our vehicle. I only know the old Rover V8 engine inside & out, not the 1KZT engine in our LCII. The LCII doesn't have the intercooler the 90 series have in their engine. But it's still a great engine.
Interesting notes on tyres. If 33"'s are hard to come by in other countries are 31x10.50x15's common in other countries? If so it might pay just to stick with these. It would also mean less hassle [buying 16" wheels and selling the 15"s]? The tyres we were thinking of using were Cooper ST-T's. They're on the vehicle at the moment and have proven themselves to be excellent. More agressive than an A/T tyre, not quite as agressive as a M/T tyre and have yet proved puncture proof on the rocky trails I've driven.... so far! Though I don't know how they would compare to the Michelin's as I have had no experience with those.
What is mean't by unmounted spare tyres. Does this mean the tire attached to the rear door?
PJ
The trip is a fair time away but such a trip takes a lot of planning and getting the vehicle right [and use used to driving it] is first on my list.
As for the route? We're not sure yet.... we just want to avoid the middle east [Iraq, Afganistan] for obvious reasons. So going through Russia, Siberia, Mongolia, China is one way. Going south through Europe and down through Africa is another [but I've read reports of ropey shipping agents when taking your car from their country to another].
The comments regarding about making sure I'm handy with a spanner and making sure we both have adequate spares is something my wife and i both agree with 100%. It's just as well I truely enjoy mechanics as a hobby - but truth be told I need to learn about the engine in our vehicle. I only know the old Rover V8 engine inside & out, not the 1KZT engine in our LCII. The LCII doesn't have the intercooler the 90 series have in their engine. But it's still a great engine.
Interesting notes on tyres. If 33"'s are hard to come by in other countries are 31x10.50x15's common in other countries? If so it might pay just to stick with these. It would also mean less hassle [buying 16" wheels and selling the 15"s]? The tyres we were thinking of using were Cooper ST-T's. They're on the vehicle at the moment and have proven themselves to be excellent. More agressive than an A/T tyre, not quite as agressive as a M/T tyre and have yet proved puncture proof on the rocky trails I've driven.... so far! Though I don't know how they would compare to the Michelin's as I have had no experience with those.
What is mean't by unmounted spare tyres. Does this mean the tire attached to the rear door?
PJ
