Klunky and Tucker both had this same issue. The driver's power lock switch reluctantly moves the driver's lock and eventually only moves it halfway into the locked position.
Took off the driver's panel today to see what's going on with a squeak that drives me crazy from the door limiter strap. Then remembered the slow lock. So, I pulled the switch panel off the armrest - this can be done very quickly without removing the door panel (nice design).
You'll find the grey (or your interior color) trim panel can be removed with 3 bright screws. Then the final disassembly step is to remove the 4 black screws that allow you to separate the switch assembly (no need to remove the milky clear cover on the bottom though I did out of curiousity). Before actually pulling the switch assembly apart, you'll need to simply pop the window locking switch off (straight up) and use a tiny screwdriver or other to push the tiny white clips off holding the power lock switch rocker on and then pop it off straight up as well.
Now you can pull the switch assembly apart and see the actual switch contacts for all switches (again - nice design Toyota). Do this in a clean and well lighted spot that is free of clutter as there are some small parts that could fall out if you are a clutz. Mine did not, but just pointing it out. Once the top of the switch assembly is laid aside, take note that each switch contact has a bird-in-flight shaped metal rocker that is simply sitting there now and some may have fallen a bit out of position. Also, there are a few tiny columnar springs now just sitting where they provide ground when the assembly is closed. Just noting this as if you get crazy you could be wondering where things went, so be smooth.
The first thing you'll notice is how blackened and filthy the driver's power window switch contacts are. They're different from the others due to the "auto down" feature. Guess why the window has been slow for years? All the contacts in my assembly had a bit of black crud on them to one degree or another.
I thought I'd need to clean them with sandpaper but quickly learned it is just a sooty deposit that came off. So, I wet tiny pieces of paper towel with brake cleaner and wiped all the contacts off. Easy since the bird shaped things simply lift off for cleaning and access to their mates.
The driver's contacts I actually sprayed and let the cleaner flow off the switch assembly since they do not come out like the others. Then I used wet (with brake cleaner) paper towel pieces between the contacts and pulled them out a few times until they came out clean. The actual reason I was in there was to clean the lock switch contacts and they were moderately dirty.
On assembly, note that the power lock rocker switch MUST be mated to its white actuator (the white clips you released with a tiny screwdriver) before putting the "lid" with the other switches back on. Don't forget the trick little rubber boot.
After reassembly, the power lock switch works perfectly and with a firm movement as new. I did not put any lube on the lock actuator arm as I once tried years ago to correct this. The driver's window is also more lively.
So, if you've got this symptom, you're about to see another great reason to own an 80 - electric switches that can actually be cleaned and that will run forever.
DougM
Took off the driver's panel today to see what's going on with a squeak that drives me crazy from the door limiter strap. Then remembered the slow lock. So, I pulled the switch panel off the armrest - this can be done very quickly without removing the door panel (nice design).
You'll find the grey (or your interior color) trim panel can be removed with 3 bright screws. Then the final disassembly step is to remove the 4 black screws that allow you to separate the switch assembly (no need to remove the milky clear cover on the bottom though I did out of curiousity). Before actually pulling the switch assembly apart, you'll need to simply pop the window locking switch off (straight up) and use a tiny screwdriver or other to push the tiny white clips off holding the power lock switch rocker on and then pop it off straight up as well.
Now you can pull the switch assembly apart and see the actual switch contacts for all switches (again - nice design Toyota). Do this in a clean and well lighted spot that is free of clutter as there are some small parts that could fall out if you are a clutz. Mine did not, but just pointing it out. Once the top of the switch assembly is laid aside, take note that each switch contact has a bird-in-flight shaped metal rocker that is simply sitting there now and some may have fallen a bit out of position. Also, there are a few tiny columnar springs now just sitting where they provide ground when the assembly is closed. Just noting this as if you get crazy you could be wondering where things went, so be smooth.
The first thing you'll notice is how blackened and filthy the driver's power window switch contacts are. They're different from the others due to the "auto down" feature. Guess why the window has been slow for years? All the contacts in my assembly had a bit of black crud on them to one degree or another.
I thought I'd need to clean them with sandpaper but quickly learned it is just a sooty deposit that came off. So, I wet tiny pieces of paper towel with brake cleaner and wiped all the contacts off. Easy since the bird shaped things simply lift off for cleaning and access to their mates.
The driver's contacts I actually sprayed and let the cleaner flow off the switch assembly since they do not come out like the others. Then I used wet (with brake cleaner) paper towel pieces between the contacts and pulled them out a few times until they came out clean. The actual reason I was in there was to clean the lock switch contacts and they were moderately dirty.
On assembly, note that the power lock rocker switch MUST be mated to its white actuator (the white clips you released with a tiny screwdriver) before putting the "lid" with the other switches back on. Don't forget the trick little rubber boot.
After reassembly, the power lock switch works perfectly and with a firm movement as new. I did not put any lube on the lock actuator arm as I once tried years ago to correct this. The driver's window is also more lively.
So, if you've got this symptom, you're about to see another great reason to own an 80 - electric switches that can actually be cleaned and that will run forever.
DougM