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450 DUDE

450 DUDE

Joined
Aug 12, 2005
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Location
Ione CA
Finally got started on this.
Im using the 12" unit , shamelessly copied from First Toy. :)
I only have the rear started , and I figured this would be a good time to get some input.

The mount is 1/4" plate (overkill) It sits over the nutserts and is bolted down.
Under the mount there is a 1/4" polyurethane sheet , Im not sure if it will work .
At this point there has been no cutting or grinding to the vehicle . (yet)
One of the things Im not sure about is , If the "overhead" mount will cut in too much in to the down travel. (maybe should have gone 14"?)
The bottom mount will be the same as First Toy and crew.



There are some parts still coming, and I will try to update.
Input welcomed.

ken
P1010031.webp
P1010032.webp
P1010033.webp
 
Last edited:
Ken, I have a set of those mounts almost exactly like that on Rick's shop bench :grinpimp:

The issues that we noticed in attempting to mount the shock eye above mounting surface versus underneath as it is OEM are:

1) there's just no way to get the remote reservoir through the existing hole in the mounting plate. that makes any work on the shocks a giant pain in the A$$. Even with a 1" body lift and then "opening" up the hole to 3.5" it still isn't enough to get the remote res through there. I posted the details of this in James' thread

2) the shock body, and most importantly that port for the remote res hose, are not positioned well for this at all. I'd hook up the hose and then cycle the suspension fully before going any further - and on both sides. I tried it pointing outside and inside and tried to figure out where the hose could/would go as well as the reservoir itself. as you no doubt have seen, it is really tight.

3) the bracket you've made works great as it is but back to the remote res and its hose. the remote res won't fit between the opening of your bracket, so again, any messing with the mount, the shock or the res will require a tedious tear down. as it is now, and I may be mistaken if yours is different, but you have to mount your bracket, then push the shock eye up to it and assemble it and THEN deal with connecting the remote res line.

this is about when Rick and James did the mount their way and I ended up using the square tubing.

It looks great though and if you are ok with the constraints then carry on :cheers:
 
Cool, thanks for your input.
I haven't performed any travel checks yet, Im sure I will learn a lot from that.

I also have not done a reassembly with the res. , Do you think It will be a issue connecting the res. last?
From what I understand (not much) I will replenish spilled fluid , connect and charge with N2.
What am I missing?

Thanks again,

ken
 
Very nice brackets!
Question, why not just flip the brackets and run them under the factory mount? That way you can access the valve and gain 2" addition in travel. Make sense? Or will it not work that way?
 
Land Speeder said:
Very nice brackets!
Question, why not just flip the brackets and run them under the factory mount? That way you can access the valve and gain 2" addition in travel. Make sense? Or will it not work that way?
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking. I doubt the brackets can be flipped without a bit of re-sizing but I'm inclined to believe the flip worth doing as you gain extension in the process plus a lot of room to deal with the shocks.


Kalawang
 
Ken,
That bracket looks almost like the one Mike made! hehe

I think there will be issues as Mike pointed out.

Dropping the shock mount too low is not a good option as full compression will be really close to crushing the shock- you could bumpstop it of course but it depends on how much compression you would like to have.
 
Land Speeder said:
Very nice brackets!
Question, why not just flip the brackets and run them under the factory mount? That way you can access the valve and gain 2" addition in travel. Make sense? Or will it not work that way?
Click to expand...

If I drop the shock too much it enter's smashage terrotory. :frown:
It also seemed easier to route the hose by mounting it this way.?
Im still not sure, I might just go for a bottom mt bracket and ditch this one?


ken
 
Ken,

This is also a good time to insert a bushing or two over the piston to act as external shock bump stops. I used generic sway bar bushing but you can use shock bushing or anything with the same ID as the piston OD!

Remember that you can have custom hoses made for the external reservoir should you want to take a longer route for mounting the reservoir on the frame work.

Good luck with your experimentations....!
 
Ok this is what I have so far on the front.
I have not trimmed anything yet, everything looks ok but needs more testing.
Points of interest , using 2 90* adapters for hose connections.
The bolt in the adapter is a sholder type, for max overkill.
The top mount has a sheet of polyuerthane between the adapter and the mount. The spacers on the heims are an oil inpreg. bronze.
Im still planing on swapping the heim for bushings, but I will run the heims for now.


Where is that forklift...:crybaby:

Thanks again to the James gang!

ken
P1010001.webp
P1010002.webp
P1010003.webp
 
OK!

Post test drive results are in...............

First the set up : 7100's in the front and OME in the rear (im still missing one piece of the puzzle for the rear) and riding on J's

Big difference between the front and the rear.
I took the nastiest backcountry road around half asphalt and half dirt.
The front would suck up the bumps and the rear would kinda hop.
I also noticed the cornering was sharper and the sway and wallow were absent from the front. :)
Needless to say I cant wait to throw the rears in..... :cheers:


ken
 
450 DUDE said:
OK!

Post test drive results are in...............

First the set up : 7100's in the front and OME in the rear (im still missing one piece of the puzzle for the rear) and riding on J's

Big difference between the front and the rear.
I took the nastiest backcountry road around half asphalt and half dirt.
The front would suck up the bumps and the rear would kinda hop.
I also noticed the cornering was sharper and the sway and wallow were absent from the front. :)
Needless to say I cant wait to throw the rears in..... :cheers:


ken
Click to expand...

This is a great mod, thanks for continuing to post up your results. Lot of spend on 7100's, but clearly defined results.
 
What valving are you running? Sorry if mentioned already! Nice job on the 90* couplers.
 
alia176 said:
What valving are you running? Sorry if mentioned already! Nice job on the 90* couplers.
Click to expand...



Im running the same as the James Gang... 400/100
@ approx. 205#
The couplers were cheep, thought I would give it a go (so far so good)
Im planning the rear res. to be frame mount..:popcorn:
Thanks,

ken
 
Looks Good Ken
 
Great work Ken! it looks awesome- the 90's look like the trick to make it fit well. where did you get them?

look fwdto what you do w/ the rears. last we left it, we had some ideas on frame mounting the resivoirs as well... I just haven't had time to do anything but Rick and Mike might have...

You will notice a big improvement in rebound control once you get the rears in.
 
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