How (or should) I crank the T-bars

I am looking to level the stance of my '99 100 series. How do I, or even should I, crank up the t-bars to do this? Several threads seem to follow the merits or pitfalls of cranking the stock bars, what is the consesus on this? Do I just need to get some heavier duty bars and install them? If so, who makes good ones and what level of skill and tools are required?

I would start by checking out Bull's build:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81078

In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with cranking up the stock t-bars a bit to level out a 100. The issue that most refer to is when you crank them up a lot to lift a 100. (around 2 inches or more) The issue is that the ride of the stock t-bars is pretty soft as is. Raising the center of gravity along with the lower spring rate of the stock t-bars degrades the handling even more. That is why a t-bar with a heavier spring rate is recommended (OME).

I wouldn't think twice about cranking the t-bars up to an inch to level out the stock suspension. The adjustability is a nice feature of a t-bar equipped vehicle.

The thread Mac referred to is a great illustration of adjusting the t-bar whether it is stock or aftermarket (the adjustment process is the same).

1. Measure ride height on both sides (fender arch to lower wheel lip works).
2. Jack up front.
3. Crank T-bar tension bolt (as seen on Bull's thread) located at the end of the T-bar.
4. Lower jack. Roll or drive back and forth 10-15 feet. Measure again.
5. Repeat till desired results are achieved.

I cranked mine a few days after buying it and installing 285 Cooper STT's. Piece of cake and looks tons better. Rode this way for a year now with no noticeable problems (other than a small amount of CV grease seepage).

However...
I picked up the OME lift today. Diff drop coming next week.

I cranked mine up this past weekend. Did 5 turns and it brought the front up 3/4 inch. The front is now 1/2 inch lower than the back. Looks much better and even handles better. Will post before and after soon.

Here are the before and after. I had to add a little mud to it after cranking it up.

Before


After

Any opinions on what would be the better option to raise the front on a AHC vehicle? Cranking T bars, AHC sensor adjustment or a combination of both?

IMO, combination of both would be optimal. The only problem is you need a pressure gauge (or Toyota scan tool) to set it accurately. However, adjusting only the sensors is easy and has given me no problems. It also makes it easier to return to the stock position. Once I add a bullbar, I will play with T-bar adjustment or T-bar replacement.

You have to adjust the sensors if you want the hight to change on an AHC vehicle - as the AHC will set the vehicle where the sensors tell it the adequate position is.

If you adjust the sensors without adjusting the T-bars you will expirience lack of comfort (if raised, suspension gets harder as the cones are pressurized heavier) or dangerous handling (if lowered beyound T-bars level the entire damping dissapears, as the T-bars alone can lift the vehicle high enough in the sensors view).

Especially the rear requires heavier springs to increase the load carrying capacity from poor to very good - there is little options for the in-between. But more on this if requsted only.. I have been through most of the issues with my V8 1999 AHC currently running OME T-bars and heavy springs..

hec4x4dk-

So your saying Sensor first, then T-bar? If yes, How would I determine how much to adjust the T-Bars if not replacing them? Did you use the pressure in the AHC system to bring your ride back to stock? I would like to hear more about your experience with this. It sounds as though you adjust the AHC sensor for the lift, then crank the T-bars to get the vehicle weight back off the AHC system.

well not exactly - I say both must be handled if lift is the desire.

1. Leave vehicle in Low (no AHC pressure, sensors no effect).
2. Level side heights (eg. cap-center to wing) with T-bars.
3. Set vehicle in Normal with started engine. Adjust sensors to desired height, make sure vehicle is still in level. Always turn off and restart engine and measure again to make sure it still levels, and check that all the height settings can be reached (control light blink while changing, stable when height is reached).
4. Adjust T-bars equally much in each side to useable spring/damper rate.

Issue-3 can give trouble if one sensor is out-of-bounds as the other side may try to compensate. I put my sensors on with all nuts but tightended the adjusters all the way in, making the adjuster-pin as short as possible. This will IMHO also give a lift within reason and no bad side effects as I can see it, but will not allow for 35" tires either (I dont know what will, BTW, apart from Arctic Truck like modifications).

Issue-4 should be done with care - I believe a quarter of a turn on the T-bar bolts makes quite a difference. You have the option of setting your total suspension a little softer than normal by letting the T-bars carry slightly more, or setting it a little firmer by letting the T-bars carry as little as possible - the vehicle should still be able to rise to max height without trouble, and there should always be damping too.

If your sensors are on their way to the land of the great Toy (abandoing usefull life) it may be impossible to make this work. So make sure you try out your suspension for expexted firmness (not too hard in one or both sides, not too different in damping/firmness between sides) before altering anything.

If in any doubts or you get into trouble, you could try to contact the Toy shop and let them measure things out - they may have no clue on how to set the height as you want it, but can check that both sides are equal in their view of the world, and that the sensors are actually working (for most of the time, that may be, in the start of failure period it may apper to be periodic of limited to a very narrow measurement are that may not be observed on specifically)

If you dont get a 4-wheel measurement afterwards you may have a reduced tendency to self-correct the steering at the very outer limits. Other than that I have found no practical side effect, no uneven tire wear or the like. Well, I did have mine measured, but the adjusters where all grown together and the need for adjustments where within limits, so....

Oh, might I mention that an all-new demo RR-HSE had similar steering behaviour? For the fun I went in to give the dealer a chance to show me something better than my Toy, and he nealy jumped of exageration - until I came back after the test drive and told him that this and that was out of function. On a demo vehicle.. shame on..

Of course the lift will give a higher travel allowance on bumps (more speed to bottom-out) but it will jump away from 'way' sooner on the down-side (holes). To me this is better than before...

Have fun with it..