02 Sensor Bolts

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fjfar80

fjfar80

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So, I get my new O2 sensors from CDan and go to replace them last night. Unfortunately the only 4 things on my truck that are rusted are the 4 nuts holding the O2 sensors on. These guys are rusted so bad that they no longer even look like nuts. Any ideas on how to get them off. I attempted just about everything under the roof, except for breaking out the plasma cutter. I am afraid of actually cutting off the bolts in my attempt to remove the nuts. Any help and/or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also, does anyone know a good shop in Memphis for 80 work.
 
I just did this and was really worried. I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster 2 weeks before install and then a few days before install. I was surprised that of the 4 bolts 3 came off very easily. The 4th rounded a little, but still came off.
 
Concrete -

Mine look more like cones that have fused to the bolts. There isn't an edge to even grab onto. Obviously the base is wider than the top and there is nothing and I mean nothing to grab onto.
 
hmmmm.... i used a socket. 12mm i think.
 
concretejungle said:
I just did this and was really worried. I sprayed the bolts with PB blaster 2 weeks before install and then a few days before install. I was surprised that of the 4 bolts 3 came off very easily. The 4th rounded a little, but still came off.
Click to expand...

same here, pb blaster worked like a charm. i couldnt get a socket on mine they were in such bad shape. I used some vice grips or pliers, cant recall which. After a week or so of pb blaster, they came right off. Stopped at ace and bought some new nuts.
 
all 4 of mine were in rough shape...the front two came free with a nut-vice-grip and were replaced (CDan predicted my rust and sent the new nuts)....the back two were soaked for a few weeks, a socked was hammered over, and one came out nicely...

the other busted the stud....fortunately, autozone had the right stud for CHEAP and a little creativity with the blue wrench and a vice grip helped it come free and get replaced....
 
All four of mine were rounded off as well. They looked like little rusty collars, not even a hint of corners. I soaked them in Liquid Wrench "Super Penetrant" for a day. I still couldn't get a grip on them, of course.

What finally worked was to get a cold chisel and hammer, then chisel a deep notch into each nut. After notched, I turned the cold chisel to hit the notch tangentially - so the force of the impact would turn the nut. I had to wail away, but once the nuts twisted about 1/4 of a turn, they were finger loose.
 
Get a set of bolt-offs from Sears. They're not expensive and they'll take those rounded off bolts off in two seconds.
 
How about using a nut splitter? I used one while putting on my Slee lift on the front shock nut. I have been soaking mine as new O2 sensors from Dan are on there way this week. I hope they come off easy.
 
I'm in the process of replacing my cats and o2 sensors, how important are the heat sheilds around the cats? Most of the studs snapped off when I was removing them, they have been rattling for years. Can I run without them? downsides?
 
What Scamp said. I tried hammering various sockets onto the remnants of nuts, not a chance with those. I'd been wanting to justify a set of bolt-offs, and they happened to be 1/2-off when I stopped at Sears. They worked great, although I suspect they won't work near as well if they dull even slightly, and I can't see any way to sharpen them. I work with a lot of machine tools like that. If I thought I'd need them even occasionally, I'd go with a better brand. I replaced with stainless nuts, don't remember the size, but I posted it a few months ago.
 
Last edited:
No to spray on O2 sensors

Hold up guys! Using PB or any other penetrant can have some problems. Make sure you have no silicone in any rust buster you use. Most of them use it, and you can contaminate the new O2 sensors with the smallest amount into that sensor. I've pulled hundreds of O2 sensors and never once used any oil to do it. Go to the hardware store, get the 8USD torch kit, and heat that sensor red hot (right at the nut/flange interface), then remove with either a wrench or a set of vice grips. Really, really bad O2 sensors sometimes require multiple heat cycles with the torch. Many manufacturers have Dealer TSB's about using *any* type of oil on O2 sensor removal.

Also ck the threads on the O2 after you pull it. If they are galled (or gone), you might want to run a tap into the O2 hole before you attempt to land your expensive new toys.

HTH

Scott Justusson
 
patpend2000, I would not remove a heat shield because the factory put it there for a reason, i.e., to prevent thermal damage and/or fire. I had new cats put in and the muffler shop tack welded the shields back in place. You could try using baling wire to tighten things up a bit to quell the rattles.

SUMOTOY, the 91-92 FJ80s have the flange-type O2 sensors with holes in the flange to fit over the studs. Does this affect your recommendation against using penetrating oils, since there's a *little* bit more room and a gasket between the outside and the probe hole?
 
psfpilot said:
patpend2000, I would not remove a heat shield because the factory put it there for a reason, i.e., to prevent thermal damage and/or fire. I had new cats put in and the muffler shop tack welded the shields back in place. You could try using baling wire to tighten things up a bit to quell the rattles.

SUMOTOY, the 91-92 FJ80s have the flange-type O2 sensors with holes in the flange to fit over the studs. Does this affect your recommendation against using penetrating oils, since there's a *little* bit more room and a gasket between the outside and the probe hole?
Click to expand...

I bought only 1 O2 sensor for a customer cuz I blew it out using P-lube to remove it. I have never used it since, and the smallest amount significantly reduces the service life of the O2. This also applies to the minimal amount of antiseize compound on the O2 threads, don't get that on the sensor probe! This heat procedure applies to the 2 nut type as well, I can't remember ever losing to a frozen O2 using heat. Though with my 87 4runner, I never had a problem removing the flange type 02 without any heat at all.

Scott Justusson
 
Thanks for the advice. For my future reference, do you have any advice on where to purchase a tap large enough for a screw-in sensor?
 
scottm said:
What Scamp said. I tried hammering various sockets onto the remnants of nuts, not a chance with those. I'd been wanting to justify a set of bolt-offs, and they happened to be 1/2-off when I stopped at Sears. They worked great, although I suspect they won't work near as well if they dull even slightly, and I can't see any way to sharpen them. I work with a lot of machine tools like that. If I thought I'd need them even occasionally, I'd go with a better brand. I replaced with stainless nuts, don't remember the size, but I posted it a few months ago.
Click to expand...

Doesn't Sears offer a lifetime no questions asked return policy on their tools? If it's a Craftsman just take it back and get a replacement.
 
psfpilot said:
Thanks for the advice. For my future reference, do you have any advice on where to purchase a tap large enough for a screw-in sensor?
Click to expand...
A quick search returns:
SUMOTOY said:
All O2 sensors to date use a 18x1.50 thread, that's been the industry standard since 1981.
Click to expand...
http://www.mcmaster.com/ has a several taps that size.
 
Lucy said:
Doesn't Sears offer a lifetime no questions asked return policy on their tools? If it's a Craftsman just take it back and get a replacement.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure this is covered, I'll check, thanks!
 
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