Undercoat for Tub (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hookjaw
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if your looking for a good undercoat find one, it doesn't really matter what toyota used as long as its a good undercoat.... just search for it with the "search" button. it all boils down to your budget ...you've got durabak DIY all the way to Line-X which is prof. done.
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
The Eastwood Company sells some good anti-rust products, check out their website.
Regards,
Alan
Seattle
The Eastwood Company sells some good anti-rust products, check out their website.
Regards,
Alan
Seattle
Go with Durabak smooth liner.
I say go with the smooth becasuse the rough will collect mud like it is cool.
I say go with the smooth becasuse the rough will collect mud like it is cool.
Josie'sLandCruiser said:
x2
and another vote for the line-x
Rezarf <><
hookjaw said:
With all the rust problems we all have, I have to wonder are you asking what Toyota used so you can AVOID IT LIKE THE PLAGUE
I used 3M under body schutz(sp?) and I'm really happy with how it turned out. I used an undercoating gun from Eastwood and got the coating at my local auto paint supply place. It's about $15 a quart i think.
Shane
Shane
landcrusher909
Athlete/Race truck driver/Hobbyist
im getting ready to use some stuff call pour-15 i have used it on smaller parts and its works great sticks to rust and stops it from spreading the link is www.prp.porshop.com check it out 38 bucks
Rhinoliner
SILVER Star
Not trying to drum up any business with this, but just wanting to provide some information that isn't currently listed in the spray on liner section.
Rhino Linings goes on glass smooth when it is sprayed, the texture is added (if desired) after you get done spraying and can be varied from very fine to the cottage cheese look.
Also, Rhino Linings offers two very different products that are suitable for spraying on vehicles. They are "Tuff Stuff" and "Dura Spray".
Tuff Stuff is the original and is kind of rubber-like. It is measured in the same hardness scale with tires, it's called Shore A. It's a zero to 100 scale and Tuff Stuff is 95 while tires are around 60 to 70. It can be sprayed basically any color to match whatever paint code you want. If it is a metallic color, the U/V topcoat which is sprayed on shortly after the lining is applied also has the metallic. The U/V topcoat also has the feel of a painted surface and is just as easy to clean as any other painted surface, depending on the texture that was chosen. IMHO, Tuff Stuff is a great product for the inside of a bed or cab because it is "Grippy" to keep stuff from sliding around, it helps with sound deadening, and it is non- abrasive which keeps from scratching up your stuff.
Dura Spray is a much harder product and is more plastic-like. It is measured in the same hardness scale with bowling balls. It's also a zero to 100 scale and Dura Spray is 55 while a bowling ball is around 70. It's actually a little harder than Line-X which is 45 Shore D. It can be sprayed most colors. One of the 2 chemicals involved has some color to it so some colors come out to be a closer match than others. It too, can be topcoated as mentioned above to match virtually any paint code. IMHO, Dura Spray would be a much better product for exterior applications because of it's superior abrasion resistence.
Both products can be sprayed from 1/16" to however thick you can afford
. Also, any color of Rhino Lining can have the U/V topcoat applied to maintain color retention for years, including Black.
Not all Dealers spray the Dura Spray product because they don't want to invest in the additional drums of chemical. If that is the case, and you are interested in finding out more about it, you might let them know, because they probably don't, that they can purchase that chemical in headpack quantities (5 Gal vs 50 Gal).
Hope that at least some of you find this helpful, or at least interesting.
Marvin
Rhino Linings goes on glass smooth when it is sprayed, the texture is added (if desired) after you get done spraying and can be varied from very fine to the cottage cheese look.
Also, Rhino Linings offers two very different products that are suitable for spraying on vehicles. They are "Tuff Stuff" and "Dura Spray".
Tuff Stuff is the original and is kind of rubber-like. It is measured in the same hardness scale with tires, it's called Shore A. It's a zero to 100 scale and Tuff Stuff is 95 while tires are around 60 to 70. It can be sprayed basically any color to match whatever paint code you want. If it is a metallic color, the U/V topcoat which is sprayed on shortly after the lining is applied also has the metallic. The U/V topcoat also has the feel of a painted surface and is just as easy to clean as any other painted surface, depending on the texture that was chosen. IMHO, Tuff Stuff is a great product for the inside of a bed or cab because it is "Grippy" to keep stuff from sliding around, it helps with sound deadening, and it is non- abrasive which keeps from scratching up your stuff.
Dura Spray is a much harder product and is more plastic-like. It is measured in the same hardness scale with bowling balls. It's also a zero to 100 scale and Dura Spray is 55 while a bowling ball is around 70. It's actually a little harder than Line-X which is 45 Shore D. It can be sprayed most colors. One of the 2 chemicals involved has some color to it so some colors come out to be a closer match than others. It too, can be topcoated as mentioned above to match virtually any paint code. IMHO, Dura Spray would be a much better product for exterior applications because of it's superior abrasion resistence.
Both products can be sprayed from 1/16" to however thick you can afford
. Also, any color of Rhino Lining can have the U/V topcoat applied to maintain color retention for years, including Black.Not all Dealers spray the Dura Spray product because they don't want to invest in the additional drums of chemical. If that is the case, and you are interested in finding out more about it, you might let them know, because they probably don't, that they can purchase that chemical in headpack quantities (5 Gal vs 50 Gal).
Hope that at least some of you find this helpful, or at least interesting.
Marvin
Thanks Marvin that was very helpful information.
I have always been scared of undercoating, because I've seen cases
where rust has gotten beneath the coating and spread like wildfire.
I have used the old-timers coatings which are a combination of
wax, kerosene .... You can get that stuff off pretty easy if you
need to.
Am I all wet here?
where rust has gotten beneath the coating and spread like wildfire.
I have used the old-timers coatings which are a combination of
wax, kerosene .... You can get that stuff off pretty easy if you
need to.
Am I all wet here?
I used line-x and it is great. In side and under side of tub. This really sealed all of the seams as well.
Greg
Greg
merbesfield
SILVER Star
can these products be sprayed by the DIY or do they have to be sprayed by a certified shop?
I'm with rgentry on this one. I'd rather see whats happening to the metal than bury it in a rubber coating. I prefer paint or POR-15. By the time you see there's rust under the undercoating the metal is already gone. If the metal rusts with a paint coating you have a fighting chance to see that it is rusting and do something about it...rgentry said:
Nick
I am with you Rgentry and Zebra, although I would suggest using Zero Rust instead of por. Much easier to use and touch up, plus doesn't have any isocyanate. It can be built up pretty thick (1/16 +) if you want it. I believe it's 50% or more solids. It can be sprayed in a hvlp and thinned with lacquer thinner. Another plus is it can be top coated with urethane later with out any problems.
