took at look at the CV boots yesterday on my 100, I don't see a way to tighten the clamps?
Cv-boots
- Thread starter Brad Rumph
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Brad Rumph said:
Hey that's a short trip for me. I'm up in Newberry!
I've got a thread on here somewhere about when I got my boots replaced. I ran on them leaking for quite some time and the CV's checked out fine when I finally had the boots replaced. I believe I ran on the leaky boots for most of the winter. You know how wet the winter was here last season so they were exposed to the elements alot but still held up OK.
Tad
Same problem as my 100s. after the installation of the T bars. i noticed that the grease were coming out between the boot and axle. i am afraid that the grease might ran out inside the boot what i did was cut off the axle band and used the zip tie. after that it didnt come out anymore. i really need the drop kit christo. 
in the couple of months i will change the axle band and clean up the boot and change new grease. by the way, can i use the CV-2 GREASE FROM REDLINE for the axle ? 
thank you for your help
in the couple of months i will change the axle band and clean up the boot and change new grease. by the way, can i use the CV-2 GREASE FROM REDLINE for the axle ? thank you for your help
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Once again...the best advice in this thread...
As SOON as I installed my OME kit (front lift 2 1/4")..the boots started seeping..and as SOON as I installed the slee diff drop (1 week later) the boots STOPPED seeping...I steam cleaned the mess off the fender liners and A-arms, and 5,000 miles later , and might I mention VERY hard miles..no indication of a leak on the boots...BTW...@ 85,000 miles my original boots are still in perfect condition..this is with 120+ degree summers and well below freezing winters w/hard use + numerous stream crossings and flash flood waters...maybe I am lucky.....
Brad, Your Situation Is Same As Mine. The Problem Was The Axle Band Went Loose. Due To The Cranking Too Much Of The Torsion Bar. Crank It Down And Put The Diff Drop Kit. In The Meantime Cut The Axle Band A Use A Zip Tie Before Your Grease Dry Up.
Amsoil makes a good water resistent syn grease that is supposed to be great for wheel bearings, etc: It's just labeled their "Water resistent syn/lithium grease...blue in color.
Zip tie? Has anyone had good luck with a zip tie on the CV boots? Seems unlikely to me, maybe if it were an emergency or something.
I would recommend going to a suspension shop or a driveline place that works on CV joints and have them put a new one on.
IMO a zip tie won’t work.
Dean
I would recommend going to a suspension shop or a driveline place that works on CV joints and have them put a new one on.
IMO a zip tie won’t work.
Dean
dmx84, the zip tie works for me. i am just waiting for my axle band to be available in the dealer. you dont have to worry about it.
Brad Rumph said:
Brad: Your set-up is basically what I am going to do to my '99. What shocks did you use? What rear springs did you use? Are you using the stock rear bumper or? Do you have any pics of your LC with mods?
FWIW, my inner CV boots started leaking at somewhere around 60k +.
Apparently the band clamps were barely tight enough from the factory to prevent leakage, and eventually allowed slight leakage to start occurring.
I replaced with the same type stainless steel clamps. (Had to buy a $20 special clamp-tightening tool made just for those special clamps.)
The nylon tie should also work, but nylon may be affected by environment, may become brittle over time if exposed to outdoors conditions. (As in, a vehicle underbody area.)
So, your boot leakage may be unrelated to any lift kits etc. - may just be a Toyota factory issue.
Apparently the band clamps were barely tight enough from the factory to prevent leakage, and eventually allowed slight leakage to start occurring.
I replaced with the same type stainless steel clamps. (Had to buy a $20 special clamp-tightening tool made just for those special clamps.)
The nylon tie should also work, but nylon may be affected by environment, may become brittle over time if exposed to outdoors conditions. (As in, a vehicle underbody area.)
So, your boot leakage may be unrelated to any lift kits etc. - may just be a Toyota factory issue.
Tinkerer,
Where did you buy the $20 special clamp-tightening tool? Thanks.
Where did you buy the $20 special clamp-tightening tool? Thanks.
hoser
SILVER Star
I bought my CV joint clamp tool from Kragens for like $12. It works well enough for the job. The important part is the CV clamp. Kragens had crappy skinny ones that kinda worked like a zip tie. I bought better quality ones at Bap Imports. These ones were wide as stock and folded back on itself and then clamped down (if that makes sense).
hoser,
Thanks! I have a set of extra used CV's I got from Mudrak, I was going to rebuild those - I got the CV rebuild kit from the dealer - put those in the truck and have the ones that came with the truck as spares - I will rebuild those too and will be carrying them on trips just in case. I will be going to kragen's tomorrow.
Thanks! I have a set of extra used CV's I got from Mudrak, I was going to rebuild those - I got the CV rebuild kit from the dealer - put those in the truck and have the ones that came with the truck as spares - I will rebuild those too and will be carrying them on trips just in case. I will be going to kragen's tomorrow.
hoser
SILVER Star
i4c4lo, the tool was behind the counter. I asked one salesperson, he didn't know what I was talking about. Another salesperson over heard me asking and he found it.
I'm not exactly sure how the OEM clamp fastens though. I just carefully cut it off and threw it away.
I'm not exactly sure how the OEM clamp fastens though. I just carefully cut it off and threw it away.
i4c4lo said:
Can't remember...same Mom & Pop parts store where I bought the clamps.
The clamps were nearly identical to the OEM clamps. Stainless steel band, looped twice (concentric loops) with both loops threaded through a simple "eye" formed of tabs attached to base band inner loop.
Tool use: You "thread" the projecting loose end of the band thru a slot in a turn shaft, slide the tool up the band to the clamp "eye", then turn the shaft, winding to pull the band tight. The clamp has enough friction between the 2 concentric band loops plus the "eye" to retain the tension pulled by the tool. When the clamp is tight enough, remove the tool and cut the loose end of the band near the clamp "eye", then fold the remaining stub of the band over the "eye".
Looks just like OEM when done.
Hardest part about the job was finding a parts store that knew was I was looking for.
BTW, I also thought about using a plain vanilla hose clamp - but decided NOT to because of (1) rotating imbalance possibility due to hose clamp screw & body, (2) damage/loss possibility due to projecting hose clamp screw/body hitting something and maybe breaking off while rotating. The OEM type clamp is very slim, very low-profile, very light, and reliable (unless it is not quite tight enough at installation).
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After lifting the front of the 100 series approx 1.75", the passenger CV boot started to leak and sprayed a thin film of grease all over. I wiped it down the other day and installed an off-the-shelf hose clamp directly over the existing cv clamp. I used extra caution not to make contact between the clamp edge and the rubber boot that started to change angle, otherwise theis may eventually cut into it.
So far so good <200mi. No leaks. However I'm a little concerned if this may loosen up over time and cause damage, or will the screw hanging off one side cause an imbalance similar to an un-balanced driveshaft?
So far so good <200mi. No leaks. However I'm a little concerned if this may loosen up over time and cause damage, or will the screw hanging off one side cause an imbalance similar to an un-balanced driveshaft?
How many miles on the truck when you raised it?
rockclmbr said:
I would argue that at 86,000, the boots were brittle and once the suspension was lifted, the leaks/cracks develop on tired boots. I had over 100,000 miles, did the lift, boots started to leak so we swapped the boots for new. I now have about 125,000 miles with no leaks. If they start to leak shy of 200,000 miles, then I would agree that the more severe angle due to the lift causes greater wear. If at 200,000 the boots aren't leaking, I think I would conclude that the diff drop modification will extend CV boot lifespan on boots that are worn and less pliable.
The simple solution to the balance problem is to use two hose clamps, each half as long as the one your are currently using. Thread them together into one longer clamp. Tighten evenly so screws are opposite each other. Balance simply achieved.rockclmbr said:
