6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

2F clutch cover gasket

There are 8 parts to this gasket. And there might have been more at the top of the picture but if so they are far decayed or just missing. It didn't look like this was first time the cover had been taken off so parts may have gone off into the weeds.

clutch-cover-gaskets.webp
 
those gaskets are NLA... most guys run without. you could get some stick-on closed cell foam weatherstrip, or cut neoprene strips and punch holes in it for the bolts. I am running without the flywheel cover for the time being...
 
You were right about the water pump pulley, LAMBCRUSHER. Looks like I'm in the market for the one labeled 1975 in the following post's picture:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8292124&postcount=7

So, for now I think I'm going to move forward by installing the old F's pump on the 2F, leaving the oil cooler's 2 coolant hoses just plugged off until I get that pulley worked out then I'll put in the new pump and plastic fan, which also arrived today.

I could cut and weld together the two pulleys I have on-hand into one but the idea of hacking up something that rotates so many times a minutes sounds far less wise than just getting a real pulley in here. I'm guessing I need the used one from SOR: 054-013D-U Water Pump Pulley-
USED-Fits 1/75-8/76 FJ40-Fits 1/75-1/79 FJ55 on http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=054&part.number=054-013&tabpage=TAB3:

A picture would be nice. I'll check the classifieds.
 
Last edited:
FJ60 versus Fj55 rear propeller shaft

The FJ60 rear propeller shaft is 4 pounds heavier and 1.25" shorter than the Fj55's.

FJ60 propeller shaft:
minimal length: 45 1/8"
weight: 22 lbs

FJ55 propeller shaft:
minimal length: 46 3/8"
weight: 18 lbs

(By minimal length I mean face of flange yoke to face of flange yoke with slide yoke bottomed out on propeller shaft.)

Pictures are in post #52:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8794734&postcount=52
 
Last edited:
Plastikote engine enamel

Not a bad look. My goals were cleanup and rust removal, prevention of future rust, early detection of leaks, and not look goofy.

Top coat is the can on the left: 216 New Ford Gray.

Middle picture: white spots in middle are where the stuff failed a mineral spirits rub test (soaked rag rubbed back and forth a few times) after 4 day of curing at low humidity and moderate temperature (50F - 70F). I'll test again in a few weeks in case the stuff is not fully cured at this time.

I was experimenting in the hopes that engine enamel might have secret sauce but it looks like 2K is still the only way to go. The 2K epoxy rattle cans look interesting but the pot life after activation leads me to wonder why not just use a preval sprayer with just enough 2k mixed to do the job? This is for a no gun nor compressor situation.

A preval testimonial video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1nrWz0Ohcg

engine-enamel-1.webp


engine-enamel-2.webp


engine-enamel-3.webp
 
Last edited:
keep going....;)looking good. I know nussing about paint without rattlecans, you'll have to wait for someone else for info on that
 
LAMBCRUSHER, neoprene does sound like a good substitute for the clutch inspection cover's 8 part gasket which is in the paint sample picture in #73. The stuff is very soft but doesn't seem decayed.

In #61, the one exception is in the upper left corner, just on the top in the picture. That almost square bit above the bolt through hole is rock hard.
 
Last edited:
Distributor pickup connectors

[EDIT: I was confused in this message. See message #80 for the clear up: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8809659&postcount=80]

Here's the two flavors of pickup to igniter connectors. In my hand is the one for the 10/83 FJ60. The one in the background is on the ?/84 2F. The ignitor I have on hand matches the 10/83. The 10/83 distributor is a bit corroded inside and out. Both distributors are tagged Nippondenso 029100-6821 2F.

So, I'm going to try taking the pickup off the 10/83 for that connector that matches the igniter and put it on the ?/84 dizzy thinking that should be a perfect fit. That way I have better mechanicals and also that keeps the 2F engine and its dizzy married together (which I'm not at all sure is a benefit but it cannot hurt).

The corroded body distributor becomes another trail spare, right next to my very low miles points style diz.

The cover of the pickup says "DO NOT REMOVE THIS COVER" so I hope putting it back will make up for me voiding the warranty.

pickup-connectors.webp
 
Last edited:
threadchaser said:
LAMBCRUSHER, neoprene does sound like a good substitute for the clutch inspection cover's 8 part gasket which is in the paint sample picture in #73. The stuff is very soft but doesn't seem decayed.

In #61, the one exception is in the upper left corner, just on the top in the picture. That almost square bit above the bolt through hole is rock hard.
Click to expand...

smear a 1/2" wide 1/16+" thick bead of gray rtv nice and smooth and consistent along the mating surface of the cover and let it cure for a few days??? almost like a permanent gasket on the cover??? you could get fancy and make a plywood mold, pour in some silicone and make a nice one piecer...having a pig will make you think like that from time to time. so many parts NLA you just have to come at it from a production POV and then compromise the process to fit your resources...
 
NAPA Rust Treatment

Next up in the surface prep live-and-learn series: NAPA Rust Treatment. A few days ago I started on the rust repairs. Pretty much the entire right side of the engine bay was rusted where battery acid had had its way with the steel.

After fun times with some wire cups and such on an angle grinder I gave it a couple of rounds of Navel Jelly and a wire brush. Then before exhaustively eliminating all rust in pittings, I sponged on the NAPA rust treatment.

Today I tested it by just scraping it with that wire cup in the picture. It flaked off way too easily to be a good paint base is what I'm guessing (guessing because I have little painting experience and most all I know is what the Web has told me of late) despite the bottle advising to just topcoat over it.

My finger is pointing at where in an area of pitting there is still what I believe to be rust at the bottom of the pits. That's not a good solution. In the future for in situ rust removal I'll just go all the way to clean steel with the Navel Jelly. This Rust Treatment stuff could have a role as spongable, temporary metal coating to prevent rusting until primer can be laid down but I think I'll stock a preval can sprayer before I'd think of using this again.

Although I have not figured out what is the chemistry involved with NAPA rust treatment, here's a good thread on topic of phosphoric acid, which is what the Navel Jelly is (good stuff if used properly):
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secrets-surface-rust-removal-revealed-55679.html

rust-treatment.webp
 
Transmission under cover

Another part of the early leak detection system.

I, somewhat unnecessarily, took it down to bare metal and just gave it 3 coats of Krylon Dual Paint + Primer Gloss Smoke Gray (#8818) from a rattle can. The thinking is that if I am just fooling around with anything short of 2K epoxy with isocyanates, might as well keep it as simple as possible i.e. shortcut the primer and topcoat steps. I see this piece getting blasted and covered in 2K epoxy after I get back to my main base.

belly-pan.webp
 
Ha! Some times it is nice to be wrong. Turns out the weird roundish green connector on the distributor pickup was simply the regular rectangular one, from the back side.

There is a relevant picture in post #76:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8808799&postcount=76

The green, keyed, rectangular interfaced connector in my hand is the connector coming off the distributor in my hand. The one in the background is from the distributor on the engine. That's the "weird roundish green connector" I'm talking about.

In actually it is the exact same type of connector but the one on the engine is both halves of the connector plugged together, with no wires attached to the back end of the connector half visible in the picture. That's where the two wires from the ignitor terminate. I guess the guys who pulled the engine had the foresight to provide me with the other half of the connector, or they just yanked the wires out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
1970 FJ55
Replies
11
Views
1K
RUSH55
RUSH55
DTC72
FJ55 Battery & Tray
Replies
10
Views
983
DTC72
DTC72
ERNRAM
Replacement front windshield 1973 FJ55
Replies
4
Views
501
ERNRAM
ERNRAM
Dudleyfj40
FJ55 Header
Replies
11
Views
1K
Dudleyfj40
Dudleyfj40

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom