CD player finally crapped out. Ordered AVIC-Z1

SALEH said:

its same my DVD & cd player i'll buy camera but still now waiting until i got the map of the middle east then i would buy kenwood KNA-DV4100 (GPS Navigation).

Click to expand...

I believe Kenwood has a newer Nav sys called the KNA-G510 that uses a hard drive instead of dvds. Makes it easier to upgrade from what I have heard.

o rly?

want to buy my navi?

here it is! It has a SD slot for upgrading the maps
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=38&k3=150&pr=2354

That's how the Pioneer AVIC-Z1 works.

There is a DVD slot and an internal Hard Disk Drive.
HDD holds the mapping software in 20GBytes. (You buy updates on DVD).

And the other 10Gbytes on the HDD can hold songs that can automatically be ripped from every CD you plug into the DVD slot.

So far so good.

what? it holds music ripped off CDs? woh woh wait wait wait...i gota see these, ROAD TRIP!

10GB of music storage...just looked it up.

Yep,it's awsome 1LOUDLK,it also give the names by gracenote.I had mine since june no problems.I think it's the best Nav,DVD HU on the market right now.

sweet...if i ever have to do another setup ill probably consider it. The setup i have now has a module in the first aid kit spot in the cargo area. Seeing as the next vehicle i get will most likely have navi built in i probably wont need to worry about it tho.

Install pics...

Disconnected Neg Battery terminal.

Remove dash trim/switch panel that surrounds radio and contains the HVAC switches. This whole panel is held in place with tension clips only. There are no screws.

On my MY 2000, you pry at 9 and 3 o'clock on the panel, just to the outside of the wood trim beside the vent adjustment wheels. Once you get the sides popped, you can work your way around to the top and the bottom.
Disconnect the 4 electrical connectors at the bottom of the panel. They are match keyed so you don't have to keep track of which connector went where. It helps to note how they were routed (which went behind the other). Set the panel aside.

Remove the 4 hex-head screws at the four corners that hold the radio's brackets in the cavity. Support the radio and gently lift and pull toward you. Note the connector (mine only had one, it's a standard issue, non-Bose radio) position. You can disconnect that. Also note there are 2 coax antenna connectors. The larger diameter one is the main antenna and will be reused. The smaller one is a diversity/AM antenna that will not be used by the Pioneer unit. I taped mine off with electrical tape.

Out with the old...

Notice the position of the left and right mounting brackets on your Toyota radio. These "mounting ears" have to be removed and reinstalled onto the Pioneer unit. I think there were 4 small screws per side. Use the new screws supplied by Pioneer. I was only able to get 3 screws per side back into the Pioneer, as the predrilled holes didn't match exactly.

Now see the cavity you have to work with for the install. The AVIC-Z1 has lots of new connectors, cables, auxiliary connectors and labels that all have to fit, while not blocking the small fan in the back. You will also have to run GPS antenna, microphone, Speed Sense, Reverse Signal and Parking Brake sense wires into here, as well as any camera input, iPod/BlueTooth/Satellite modules. That's a lot of extra cable and connectors. Most of it will dangle down below the radio, where it turns out there is plenty of space.

I removed the Instrument Cluster trim panel (which has the dimmer adjust knob on it) by simply pulling rearward toward me. Like a lot of this truck, it's held by simple friction retaining clips. Disconnect the dimmer switch connector and set aside.

I partialling removed the knee trim below the steering wheel too. This was to give me some routing room. This was NOT a necessary step, but it helped when reaching up to pull the GPS cable across. There is a screw at the lower left corner. I am 90% sure from memory that the rest of the fasteners were just spring clips. Pull toward you to remove. Might need a little prying at each spot.

Tapping signals

AVIC-Z1 wants a few signals for your GPS Nav to work properly. It compares GPS data with Speed, Reverse, and Parking Brake. The first cable harness I connected was the adapter cable I received from Crutchfield. It translates most of the common signals from the Toyota radio connector into easier connections to the Pioneer cables/connectors.

You can see in one of the pics how I already started wiring it together. 12V+ Battery signal and 12V ACC (switched) and 12V Illumination, along with GND all needed to be crimped together. Speaker and Amp outputs were simple RCA jacks already attached to the Crutchfield adapter harness.

Removed the Glove Box. This first picture is not as revealing as I hoped, but shows how I tapped the Reverse and Speed Sense signals at a connector feeding the ECU behind the glove box. They are the pink and purple/white wires that were supplied by Pioneer. You get to the ECU by removing the glove box (2 screws and 2 door stops), and the black plastic ECU cover (3 screws). Change your cabin air filters (if you have them) while you are in the area.

It's the 4th connector down on the ECU. I had read a lot of advice about tapping Reverse from the back-up light harness far away in the taillight housing. I chose instead to tap Reverse signal from the Transmission Position Reverse signal, which I think is an input to the ECU. No harm done so far. YMMV. I referred to the FSM to confirm which wires were which.

The center console trim panel around the shift levers is also held in place entirely by tension clips. The Hi/Lo TCase shift knob just unscrews and comes off. Removing this trim made it easier for me to route the iPod module later into the arm rest storage console. I spent a lot of time cleaning out dirt, dust and gunk under here. Notice the rust? Looks like Wifey might have dumped a drink or two.

I actually DO NOT recommend tapping the P-brake switch signal here, as there is very little accessible P-brake switch wire to work with. I should have tapped the P-brake wire at the cable bundle in the driver's door channel. Or should have removed the driver's seat and caught it coming out from under the console. It was a reddish w/black striped wire I found later in the driver's footwell. In the pic here, I just Grounded it for test purposes. That is NOT recommended for normal operation.

do you know if you can load Australian maps onto this unit? It looks really good but isnt sold over here
i know i could buy it online but would need to know what the mapping software is to see if i can change the maps!!
cheers
peter

I don't know about support for Australia.

More pics of TLC install to follow.

Running cables.

There is room behind the vinyl covered dashboard frame to sneak cables around to various places. Remove the ashtray for another access hole to reach in there.

After tapping the Spd and Rvrs signals, I ran the GPS up to the Driver's side dash. (Sorry, no pic.) It gets excellent reception through the windshield in the corner; it did NOT have to be placed outside the vehicle onto the roof. I think it would probably still get good reception THROUGH the dashboard material in a hidden spot near the defroster vent. The included antenna has a magnetic base. It could stick to sheet metal, or a dashboard frame member. But since I put it on top of the vinyl dash, I had to stick on the supplied peel-and-stick metal pad first. The antenna's magnet sticks to the pad.

I wanted to avoid pulling off the headliner and A-pillar trim anywhere that it would show. So I ran the GPS cable tight against the left edge of the dash tucking it into the crack. I pulled up some of the driver's door weather strip (popped off the plastic scuff plate first) to a point high enough where I could slip the cable through the left side of the dashboard and into the driver's footwell. Then I ran the cable under the carpet under the gas/brake pedal and back up the right side of the footwell where it popped out of the carpet behind the center stack trim, near the forward-most edge of the console trim.

I fished it up behind the console plastic, behind the ashtray, and into the radio cavity. Make sure the cable will not impede the white plastic levers for the HVAC diverter doors above your right shin, around the OBD-II connector and fuel pump shutoff switch. (See 3rd pic showing that area). Also use caution around the cig lighter contacts; the + and - are exposed on the back of the socket. A healthy supply of plastic zip ties are keeping the cable where I want it.

I placed the BlueTooth module in the space to the left of the Glove box. I used their velcro tape to fasten it. Not sure that will make it through a few hot summers, but should be easy to reattach if it comes unglued. There might be room for the Satellite box there if you are crafty. I fished the cable to the radio cavity. The second pic is with the black plastic ECU cover put back in place. You can see the Pioneer BlueTooth box peaking out from its final spot.

iPod adapter

I placed the Ipod controller in the storage bin under the arm rest. We don't need that space for CD storage anymore with the AVIC-Z1.

I caniballized the Cig lighter for Power/GND. I removed the rear seat cupholder to get to the cig lighter plug. Snipped off the socket and pulled it up through the hole (damaged the socket). Crimped on the Power/GND from the iPod module and pulled the excess back down. Healthy slug of tape used to protect it and tuck it out of the way of the rear cup holder area. I ran the Ipod adapter's cable (Pioneer's proprietary bus) down through the Cig socket hole and fed it forward along behind the right side of the console trim next to another wire harness. I taped up the socket hole (I'll put a gromet in later) to protect and cover the wires in the storage bin. I used the velcro tape to tuck the iPod controller against the side of the bin. The white iPod cable is curled up ready for use. It charges your iPod when you plug in.

The Pioneer bus cable was barely long enough to pass the TCase shifter, go behind the front dash trim and come up and out of the radio cavity. Future add-ons like Satellite or TV tuners also use this bus. If I add these in the future, they would have to be daisy chained to the iPod adapter. So your install should take this into account.

Microphone

The Z1 supports voice recognition for many functions. The supplied microphone is for this and hands-free phone calls. I chose to put the mic on the IC trim, just above the steering wheel.

Very simple to route from the IC area, behind the plastic panel and around the left air vent to the radio cavity. I coiled up the excess, stuck a supplied stick-on hook on the side, and hooked the coil in the space beside the left of the vent tube.

After putting the trim back, I used double-sided tape to stick the mic on the trim. The cable is routed and clipped in a way so as not to get pinched when the steering wheel position is adjusted. You can see it in the 3rd pic shown before I put the center dash trim back on.

More Pics!

Backup Camera

I ran a video/power cable from the rear liftgate for the backup camera. I thought the camera I purchased would fit in the keyhole, but it doesn't. Waiting for a free day to drill and finish that off.

A lot of trim pieces had to be removed. Most of it pops out without too many screws. Removed the tailgate carpet trim with a putty knife by popping up the plastic fasteners all around the edge. I removed the flap that covers the gap between cargo area and tailgate (4 screws and popup fasteners, and rubber weather strip). Here's a pic of the the cargo area panel that required removing 2 seat belt bolts, the 3rd row seat anchor trim, door step trim and weather stripping, and various popper fasteners. Here's the pic I marked up for the "Killing those rattles" thread last month. (Thread ID 1257843 ?).

I drilled an extra hole through the plastic cover where the wires go into the bottom of the tailgate. I ran the cable into the left rear quarter panel at the gromet where the rest of the wiring goes in. (see where my helper is pointing). There wasn't an easy way for me to thread the cable through the plastic sleeve and gromet with the other tailgate wires (it's too full). I taped down the gromet to ensure no water can get through.

If you do find a camera that exactly fits the keyhole, here's a pic of how you remove the tailgate key cyclinder.

There's a simple steel clip that you need to yank to the left. I grabbed the tab on the left with a vice grip and pulled. The access hole over the key cyclinder is pretty small. Don't chop off your finger.

The cyclinder can then drop out of the tailgate. Disconnect the connector that you can see in the middle next to the lift gate latch release, and the plastic retaining/strain relief clip to take it completely out of the tailgate. I left mind in for now.

I'm going to drill a new hole.

Area behind the cargo trim. I cleaned off the speaker cover chocolate milk stain that had been a reminder of a bumpy ride on the beach many years ago.

You can see where my tailgate camera wire pops into the cabin and heads toward the front.

See the facotry Sub woofer system?

Running cable through the door sill channel

From the LftRr quarter panel area, the cable dives down into the left doorsill channel and follows the wiring harness. There are two clear plastic tubes that pass down there too. One is a drain tube. And I think the other is the rear washer fluid line.

The plastic scuff plates that you step on in your doorsills will pop straight up. There are plastic popper fasteners holding them down. The lower B-pillar trim also pops straight off toward the interior. You can remove the oblong plastic foot step in the left rear doorway by prying up the 2 cut-outs and taking out the 2 screws. With these out of the way, the carpet edge should be loose enough to pull up so you can get to the channel.

When I got to the driver's footwell, I ran behind the left kick panel that's next to the dead-pedal, and then followed the route of the GPS antenna cable under the driver's carpet and up into the center stack behind the ash tray.

Installed pics

Plugged in all the connections. Stuffed the unit stuffed back into the radio cavity. 4 Hex screws fastened the swapped-on ear brackets in the dash.

I pulled most of the wiring harness, cables and leftover connectors down below the radio to allow better airflow in back. You can see a few extra connectors for the camera (not connected yet), Aux AV input (for Video Game or other DVD player or TV or 2nd camera), Rear Monitor Out, and I think another Aux Audio. The Sirius, XM and TV sources can all be added by daisy-chaining onto the P-bus link that plugs into the back, if you spend the extra bucks for those modules from Pioneer.

Pre-Amp and subwoofer cables didn't need to be used b/c the Crutchfield harness and factory harness already bring the right signals to the stock Toyota Amp under the passenger seat. There was one blue wire that goes to the power antenna to signal when to go up when the radio is on. I believe I had to crimp that one. And there's another blue wire that goes to the amp to turn it on which I recall was already taken care of by the wiring harness.