You never saw @Land Speeder's Lorena Bobbit 80?
Builds Project Gonzo (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IcutYourCruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
I’ve seen pictures of it. Was it doved??
Why aren't you gonna use the trans from the 6.0 chevy that you parted?
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- #84
4L60E isn’t exactly known for strength, plus I want to make things simple and reliable. That means no computer controlled trans. Th400 is a pretty cheap and bulletproof option for the application, and has potential to be built very stout if I decide to add power later on.
Gotcha.
Just curious...did GM use the 4l60 behind the 6.0? I always thought the 80/85 was spec'd with the 6.0.....but i've been known to be wrong!
following!
Just curious...did GM use the 4l60 behind the 6.0? I always thought the 80/85 was spec'd with the 6.0.....but i've been known to be wrong!
following!
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- Thread starter
- #86
When I bought the donor (06 Yukon Denali) I thought the same thing. It was a 6.0 with 4L60, and the AWD T-case has no low range. If the T-case had low range I’d probably just use it all to get this thing rolling, even if I had to do a swap later.
Some cage fit details. This is the new approach for cage building in cruisers for me. Zero intrusion in the already fairly narrow footwells. The cage will be stitch welded into the body to support the skins. Maximum coolness:
Once the a-pillar and halo structure in the body are hollowed out, 1.75" tubing fits nearly entirely inside:
Which allows us to fit the a-pillar bars almost completely inside:
Once the a-pillar and halo structure in the body are hollowed out, 1.75" tubing fits nearly entirely inside:
Which allows us to fit the a-pillar bars almost completely inside:
Pimp.
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- #89
What a weekend! I cleaned up the shrapnel from the cruiser bomb that exploded in the shop Sunday, then started prepping for mini moto Monday. Tuesday night was recovery/relax night after all the excitement. Now it’s back to work.
The cut on the rockers, and the 2x6 fit up really well together. Im glad I didn’t get 2x4.
After a lot of thinking the last couple nights, I’m pretty sure the roof will end up having to be cut off, weld the cage, then weld the roof back on. It’s a lot of extra work on an already huge project, but the cool factor will be through the roof. (Pun 100% intended)
The cut on the rockers, and the 2x6 fit up really well together. Im glad I didn’t get 2x4.
After a lot of thinking the last couple nights, I’m pretty sure the roof will end up having to be cut off, weld the cage, then weld the roof back on. It’s a lot of extra work on an already huge project, but the cool factor will be through the roof. (Pun 100% intended)
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- #90
I added a bunch of pictures from the weekend to iMovie and let it do its automatic thing. This is what we ended up with.
- Thread starter
- #91
Brother in-law Chad was painting some CO2 cylinders, so I cleaned mine up and threw it in the mix. I had a leftover sticker from the Crasin, so why not? All it needs is a regulator, which Chad says he’ll piece together from spare parts for me.
I’ve also mad a little progress on the truck. I’ve trimmed the A pillar bars at the bottom and got the sliders fit and tacked in place. Now I can figure out how tall to trim the main hoop and get it with the A pillar bars.
After a LOT more thinking trying to figure out this puzzle we created, I’ve come to 1 conclusion. Tucking this cage is going to be an insane amount of extra work. It fits so tight, that cutting the roof off still won’t allow me to drop the cage down to be able to weld the tube to the rockers. I’m going to also have to cut access holes in the rockers, and possibly around the windshield frame, depending on how I fit my dash bar. Oh, and the roof will possibly have to be cut in half just to come off the cage.
I’ve also mad a little progress on the truck. I’ve trimmed the A pillar bars at the bottom and got the sliders fit and tacked in place. Now I can figure out how tall to trim the main hoop and get it with the A pillar bars.
After a LOT more thinking trying to figure out this puzzle we created, I’ve come to 1 conclusion. Tucking this cage is going to be an insane amount of extra work. It fits so tight, that cutting the roof off still won’t allow me to drop the cage down to be able to weld the tube to the rockers. I’m going to also have to cut access holes in the rockers, and possibly around the windshield frame, depending on how I fit my dash bar. Oh, and the roof will possibly have to be cut in half just to come off the cage.
- Thread starter
- #92
Rear doors are back and the inner door skin has been cut out of them to fit the main hoop. The main structure of the cage is roughly mocked up (nothing tacked in place yet).
I also bought a harbor freight tube roller and a swag off road kit to modify it to make some of the other bars that I add fit tighter to the body. I’m hoping to have the main structure tacked up before heading to the ONSC Christmas party this weekend. The swag off road kit for the roller should be showing up Thurs or Fri.
I also bought a harbor freight tube roller and a swag off road kit to modify it to make some of the other bars that I add fit tighter to the body. I’m hoping to have the main structure tacked up before heading to the ONSC Christmas party this weekend. The swag off road kit for the roller should be showing up Thurs or Fri.
- Thread starter
- #93
More cage progress. I bought a HF tube roller and swag upgrade kit for it. The first time I tried to use it the cheap Chinese bearings crumbled under pressure. After ordering some timken bearings I was really pleased with the results.
I curved the cross bar above the windshield to better match the roof line, and stay tucked up tight like the rest of the cage. There’s also a little bit of forward curve on the dash bar, but it’s hard to pick up on in pictures.
Got it all tacked together, and started work hogging out the B-pillars for more structure.
I curved the cross bar above the windshield to better match the roof line, and stay tucked up tight like the rest of the cage. There’s also a little bit of forward curve on the dash bar, but it’s hard to pick up on in pictures.
Got it all tacked together, and started work hogging out the B-pillars for more structure.
- Thread starter
- #94
B-pillar bars are coming along nicely. Once the other side is fit and tacked in, I’ll add a tube between the 2. After that I’m going to pause on the cage building and start to work on building the back of the cab.
- Thread starter
- #95
Good news for everyone that came to the HAMOM and wanted to work on Chads vette… he’s decided to do a dry Jan, and this is what he’s occupying his time with. It will live!
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- Thread starter
- #96
I finally had some free time during the day with no rain, so I made some progress on the back of the cab and roof. I may end up making a new main hoop for the cage so I can move the rear window/wall forward and keep the cage tucked up tight. Overall I like where it’s all going.
- Thread starter
- #97
Interesting fact, if you cut the C-pillar of and 80 out and flip it upside down, it’s really close to matching the body lines of the B-pillar on the opposite side.
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- #98
I’m not sold on the idea. It makes the cab longer than I wanted it to be.
The rear hoop was supposed to be where the back was. Even if I modified or made a new hoop to fit the angle better and make the window as short as possible, it would be too long.
On the other hand, I’m a short guy, and I don’t want to just build it around myself. I want my taller friends to be able to ride in and drive it. My main concern is having the rear tires clear the cab corners at full articulation. As it sits now I’m pretty sure they won’t, and I’m not sure the 3” I have to play with will get me there (that’s what she said). I guess I need to bolt in a seat and have someone tall come over to determine how big the cab needs to be
The rear hoop was supposed to be where the back was. Even if I modified or made a new hoop to fit the angle better and make the window as short as possible, it would be too long.
On the other hand, I’m a short guy, and I don’t want to just build it around myself. I want my taller friends to be able to ride in and drive it. My main concern is having the rear tires clear the cab corners at full articulation. As it sits now I’m pretty sure they won’t, and I’m not sure the 3” I have to play with will get me there (that’s what she said). I guess I need to bolt in a seat and have someone tall come over to determine how big the cab needs to be
Honestly that looks pretty perfect. It's a bit longer than hatchet, which Adam wishes he had done. You'll have a bit of storage behind the seats which is nice, and the body will still be a fraction the size of an 80. I say go for it. At least flesh it out that way before you cut more out of it, because it's easier to make it smaller than larger.
When I get back home later in the week I can measure from B pillar to the rear wall on hatchet to give you a reference. As Johnny said, I think we cut Hatchet a little too short and didn’t really gain much by doing so.