1KZ Surf Basic Upgrades (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 22, 2015
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2
Messages
14
Location
MA
All,

Recently picked up a 95 JDM Surf in great shape. Beyond fun to drive, and over the moon with it so far. However, I can't keep things to stock, and need a project so here we are.

My idea here is to make this a guide for newbies to the 1KZ engine, like myself, to learn what to look for and what to do to make these engines go the long haul. Not a bee all end all thread on making the most power from a 1KZ, but the little upgrades that will by nature help the little engine out and keep heads from cracking.

The project is a bone stock '95 Surf KZN130 straight off the boat from Japan to the land of Hank jr. and Freedom. Unfortunately, we weren't free enough for Toyota to send 1KZ's our way, so we had to wait, and that means parts can be a bit of a PITA and aftermarket support is somewhat limited. Despite being a HD mechanic by trade, there are nuances to each engine and application, and in the case of the 1KZ I am a bit over my skis in that department. A couple of good forums out there, but no truly definitive answer that I have found, so let's make one.

The goal is to make her last, do some tasteful upgrades that keep things relatively stock, but reliable, and can be used as a jumping-off point for guys who want to go further down the power rabbit hole.
From what I understand these engines do not like too much heat and high EGTs, as head cracking is the Achilles' Heel, so starting there with a bone stock engine, here are my thoughts. Feel free to educate me, there is a reason I'm posting here.
Adds
- EGT and Boost Guage
- 11 blade fan upgrade
- lower temp thermostat
- New exhaust custom built because the stock one is crazy restrictive with 0 flow, there is no shot I will pay 600 freedom coupons in shipping from AUS, welding is fun, and smiles per mile
- Possible Intercooler down the line
- Maybe a new Rad depending on how cool things stay
Questions
- A less restrictive exhaust with lower backpressure and more flow will in theory raise boost pressures slightly. With the ECU fuel cutoff at a factory 15psi, will the sole addition of an exhaust put a stock 1KZ over that, thus requiring a boost controller or tune?
- Air to Air or Water to air cooler?
- Overall "happy" temp range for 1KZ?
- Any luck with the "hoot" method of installing an EGT guage where it should be on the manifold without removing the turbo?

Full disclosure, up in NE USA where we have some wild temp swings, but this car is a sunny day driver in the summer mostly, so banking on anything from 50-100 dungarees frankenstein ambient temp.

Any info is appreciated, some of you know way more than I ever will about these engines.
 
Surely an intercooler has to be no. 1 mod followed by free-flowing exhaust?

I've been through a lot of what you list above in my '92 (2LTE not 1KZ). Mucked around trying to service the viscous fan clutch, then tried an aftermarket replacement, but in the end a new OEM was the right call and really I should have just done that off the bat. After wasting more money on a cheap Chinese alloy rad which sprang a leak after two years, eventually paid big bucks for a custom one, which has been an absolute game changer. I used to see coolant temps rise from mid 80s to to 110°C or higher, better with Chinese rad but now they only move 5°C max. I've not seen anything higher than 86°C since :cool: Also put a high-flow 82°C thermostat but with the new rad an 88°c would be fine now too. Redline Water Wetter has been good also. Replaced water pump when timing belt was done. I haven't felt the need to change the fan as I figure more air flow is just more horsepower lost and the cooling is now rock solid without that anyway. FYI Without an aftermarket gauge you won't have the foggiest idea of what your coolant temps are actually doing. I went with Auberins gauges for EGT, coolant and boost. Have wired up a flashing buzzer to the EGT and coolant gauges which functions as an alarm if the temps get out of their normal ranges. No need to look at the gauges as I will know immediately if anything is out of sorts.

I'm approaching the end of the install of a water to air setup. Has been a MUCH bigger project than I expected as space is tight so have had to move multiple components and have made a lot of custom bracketry etc. Mounting the IC radiator with the stock bumper is a tight fit and it needs to be on an angle but it can be done. Don't have a photo with the bumper back on for some reason but it fits mint and should get decent airflow.

With a IC and exhaust you might get away with leaving the cooling system more or less as stock as your EGTs will be a lot lower. I'll do a proper write up on my water to air when I finally get it finished.

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Buy Adonis Raid tune box for it, over 200 hp and 450 Nm. Boost will raise to 1.3 bar. Intecooler is needed then.

Or just tune it a little by adjusting fuel control valve. That’s all what you can really do with that electric pump without any piggy pags.

Water temp is not a problem, not worry about that.
 

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