Any Paint/detail experts? (1 Viewer)

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Hi everyone, I have an 06 LX. I went to install a roof rack and noticed that there are very fine orange specs that are embedded into the paint. I figured that it is metal dust from flap disks and steel that landed on top of truck when I blew the garage out and rusted although I don't know how the dust traveled that far. About 75% of it will come with a wet rag and hard scrubbing, but I can't remove the rest yet. I tried Meguires ultimate compound with no luck. Any ideas or other chemical I should try that is safe?
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Yeah, I should've just clayed the thing first before posting. I was prob looking for an easy way out of this lol.
 
Wd40 and allow it to soak few days
 
Perhaps some IronX will work.
 
Car pro iron x is a great recommendation. Clay would work just as good. Most heavy duty wheel acids are hydrofluoric acid and sulfuric acid and disolves iron particles.
 
Another vote for clay
 
So this is what I would do. I would wash it very thoroughly then I would get a fine to medium clay bar and see if that pulls it off. Don't get the claybar kit from your local retail store. Go to www.autogeek.net and purchase this Meguiars Professional Auto Detailing Clay, meguiars C2000 clay bar, Detail Clay cleans better than polishes! Clean your car with Meguiars Detailing. It cost a little more but does a better job than the clay kits you can purchase at your local auto parts store. I would try and make a few passes and that should take care of it. Make sure that once you clay you lay down a nice layer of protection. Use a good quality sealant/wax to protect the top of your vehicle.
 
Before you use clay (which you definitely should), take the other advice here for an iron remover like Iron-X. What you're seeing, as mentioned, is the industrial fall out that's accumulated on a surface that hasn't been maintained. The clay will, in theory, remove this, but if it's orange then it's oxidizing and needs to be removed chemically first. If you hit it with the clay first, you'll contaminate your clay faster and likely only get the one good use out of it.

Follow it with your preferred method of paint correction (that's a whole 'nother conversation) and then seal it properly. Repeat the clay process at least once annually and reseal every 6 months (if using traditional sealants vs a ceramic type product).
 
Another vote for ironX or similar product. It makes the clay process less aggressive to get it off chemically, and it's possible you won't even need the clay if it is indeed ferrous fallout.

If you do want a good quality clay bar at a reasonable price I would buy this with free shipping. 200 Gram Clay Bar

(also the best quality microfiber towels for the price I've found, especially these for $16 right now: Bull Shine Plush No Edge Microfiber Towel - Blue, 16)
 
As others have stated, this is typical industrial contamination. If the vehicle is new to you, chalk it up to the PO never getting it properly detailed; get it fixed and move on. If you have owned it a while, once you get it fixed take a look at where you park. Places to avoid include the following:
  • Industrial facilities, especially near roofs
  • Dust collectors
  • Rail Yards
 
Hi everyone, I have an 06 LX. I went to install a roof rack and noticed that there are very fine orange specs that are embedded into the paint. I figured that it is metal dust from flap disks and steel that landed on top of truck when I blew the garage out and rusted although I don't know how the dust traveled that far. About 75% of it will come with a wet rag and hard scrubbing, but I can't remove the rest yet. I tried Meguires ultimate compound with no luck. Any ideas or other chemical I should try that is safe?
View attachment 1857711

Thank you for posting this!
For the first time I got this on my LC this summer.
It happened wherever I parked but is only around the bottom of the rear glass.
Thanks for the tips in this thread.
 
Ok, I did a ton of reading on various forums and you guys pointed me in the right direction. The consensus for this seems to be to IronX it first (I didn't even know such a product existed) then clay then correct/seal etc. For $19 on Amazon IronX is inbound and I will let you know after the first of the year how it goes. Thank You for the help.
 
FYI, I used an alternative brand product, but the same thing. Mine had a super strong and disgusting smell of sulfur and when I used it on my old Benz, somehow it managed to get somewhere and hasn't gotten out. Nearly a year later and I still catch a whiff of it every now and then in a turn. I don't know if IronX brand specifically has this smell, but if it does, beware getting a lot into vents or anything. I haven't read about this outside of my experience, but it was bad enough that it was worth mentioning.
 
Also another good alternative to using the Iron Pro X is the Meguiars All Wheel Cleaner. There are quite a few detailers that use this product. It is cheaper and also you can purchase it on a retail level.
 
Are you saying use the wheel cleaner on paint?

I'll watch you do it first!

I don't see it being as effective as a dedicated iron remover though. They're made specifically for this and paint safe. The IronX and similar products are intended to sit on paint for a while to work. I don't think I'd let wheel cleaner sit on the paint.
 
Yes there is a guy on YouTube named Scott from Dallas Paint and Auto Detailinh that has over 25+ years experience in auto detailing. Find his channel on YouTube and he does it. His channel is very informative.
Are you saying use the wheel cleaner on paint?

I'll watch you do it first!

I don't see it being as effective as a dedicated iron remover though. They're made specifically for this and paint safe. The IronX and similar products are intended to sit on paint for a while to work. I don't think I'd let wheel cleaner sit on the paint.
 

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