LC doesn't move in 2WD but does in 4WD...Need advice please! (1 Viewer)

[scottaskinosie]

Can I see a picture? I'm having a hard time envisioning where you are.

Absolutely!

Here is an image from underneath. As you can see the axle is sticking out pretty far from the diff. This is where I am stuck. I can't seem to generate enough force to push the axle into the diff past the snap ring.

Right now I am going to try and back this out, line the snap ring with the opening facing the bottom as advised by @abuck99, and force it in as far as I can. Then i am going to try and tap this sucker in using a piece of wood on that little lip there.

However, that may take a month of Sundays to tap that all the way in so if there is a more efficient way to do this I am all ears!

 

[scottaskinosie]

X

 

[abuck99]

Looks maybe like youre installing an aftermarket CV? (Non-oem) that maybe contributing to the difficult fit.

Either way- if the snapring is not pefectly aligned with the open end facing down, it wont lock into place. Make a mark on the top of the axle 180 opposite of the snap ring opening so you can keep track of where the snap ring is pointed as you insert the Axle into the diff.

 

[scottaskinosie]

Looks maybe like youre installing an aftermarket CV? (Non-oem) that maybe contributing to the difficult fit.

Either way- if the snapring is not pefectly aligned with the open end facing down, it wont lock into place. Make a mark on the top of the axle 180 opposite of the snap ring opening so you can keep track of where the snap ring is pointed as you insert the Axle into the diff.

Thanks man, yes it is aftermarket.

I will try marking it. It's crazy, I have pulled it out and aligned it several times now and am able to apply a large amount of force but it just won't go. I can feel like splines all line up but as soon as it hits that ring it doesn't even act like it wants to move a little.

I have even tried removing the snap ring that the new axle came with and switched it out for the old one. It slides in like butter without the damn ring so I know it should fit!

 

[Ayune]

Perhaps the snap ring groove is slightly larger in diameter than on the original axle? So the snap rings (both original & new) end up being larger in outside diameter when installed on the new axle and won't fit into the hole?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Check it against your OEM one - length and diameter.

 

[Julian Stead]

Better off with a good used OEM axle than a aftermarket, they don't work through the same angles as OEM, also you could just get a replacement outer CV joint and keep the OEM inner and shaft, not ideal but better than what your faced with.

 

[Julian Stead]

However, that may take a month of Sundays to tap that all the way in so if there is a more efficient way to do this I am all ears!

Once your get it past the initial resistance of the snap ring with a sharp blow then it should just pop in, if not I wouldn't force it. Just reinstall the original so you can get a feel to how it is supposed be with the confidence of not causing damage, I know it will have to be removed, but it will give you a better understanding of what is involved.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

As @Julian Stead mentioned you need to give that a sharp blow...when I did my CV boot job I used a brass drift and tapped it from underneath on the edge of the housing...but be very careful because you will be tapping the rubber part and you don't want to cause damage to the boot...I really didn't even hit it very hard and it popped right in.

 

[scottaskinosie]

@Julian Stead, @NorCalFJ100, @Trunk Monkey & @Ayune. Thank you all for the help! I took my old axle and sized it up to the new one and they look identical. I tried to put the old one back in and it gave me the same resistance as the new one.

So I lined up the snap ring and put a spot of grease on it to keep it still and marked it with a marker as suggested by @abuck99. Once I had inserted it and got to the snap ring where I am getting hung up, I grabbed the adjacent part of the axle and used it as a slide hammer to gently tap the shaft in past the snap ring. And that did it!

That sucker seated right in there and I was able to get it all put back together. She drives like a dream again!

Thank you all so much. This was a pain in the ass and there is no way I could have pieced it all together without the help of you guys here

 

[RyanStl]

Glad it ended up working for you.

 

[scottaskinosie]

Hey again everyone,

I need one last bit of advice as it turns out.

I was anal retentively checking this project out again this morning and noticed that I tore the axle boot during the process of trying to get this seated. It is a small tear about the width of my pinky but a tear none-the-less.

I really do not want to try and redo this project any time soon so I am wondering what you all think about this. i am inclined to put a flexible silicon epoxy on the tear and simply monitor it. Since it is on the top side of the boot i am not as worried about leakage.

Do you all think this is alright? Is there something I amy not know/understand here? Should I be worried about it drying out?

I bought a pair of axles (because for some reason it was cheaper that way) so I have a spare should I need it.

Thanks again for all of your help!!!

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[Trunk Monkey]

Unfortunately the boot spins with the axle . . .

I would maybe try that "as seen on TV" tape stuff that supposedly will seal a leaking water pipe.

 

[scottaskinosie]

Damn, you are right! I didn't even think of that.

Thanks Trunk Monkey, i may give that a shot.

What about the axle boot repair kits they sell at Orieley's? (They are a boot that is cut in half that fits around your old boot and clamps on)Anyone have any experience with those?

They are a little pricey but worth it to not have to take this sucker apart again for a while...

I may try taping it up and placing a new boot repair over the top to make sure everything stays nice and snug.