Registering "Moose" (1 Viewer)

[willyAUS]

Gday all,

Took in my FJ60 over the pits to get licensed but it failed on a number of items. It's late here now but I'll post photos of the leaks tomorrow for some input/thoughts from those more experienced.

In order on the govt issued white slip of pain:

1) Rear differential leak and play - photos tomorrow

2) Oil leaks from gearbox and engine - photos tomorrow

3) number plate lights not working, upon inspection the right hand side globe mount is missing entirely.

4) window washers to operate. I press the switch in the cab and I can hear the pump start but no water flow. I'll pull the reservoir tomorrow and check for sediment buildup causing blockage. Any tips on removing this from people that have done it prior? I'd like to avoid breaking fiddly plastic bits.

5) Shackle bushes front and rear - I intended to put

6) Wheel bearings need adjustment - I'll find a youtube video on how to do this

7) brake pedal hard, my Haynes book suggested a restricted brake line from master cylinder might be the cause. Any tips on fault finding this?

Serves me right for buying a truck sight unseen, but with such a clean body I just couldn't pass it up.

 

[willyAUS]

Well, it's bucketing here today and my phone has just failed, so no pictures just yet. Will have to be in the next 24 hours. Having slept on the list of issues with the 4wd I'm going to get a compression test done on the engine... don't want to spend thousands fixing everything else only to have the engine fail so soon.

 

[hj 60]

That is a nasty list, can you drive it on a back road or park it a a farm to drive a bit more for testing?
What hits me is the insane "while you're there fixes" : if you replace a seal also replace the bearing next to it, and the brakes, and the hard line, and the rubber line, etc. ordering parts is a big box, then get the forgotten parts, then replace the wrong ordered parts
a lot to read (get fsm) for you about the common fixes, good luck, place pictures, if it is rust free decide if you keep it (4x4 or mall?) or sell it and a 1000 dollar on parts will make it like new and rust free is easy to sell later.

1) Rear differential leak and play - (leak wheel side or shaft side) replace seal, adjust bearing or replace, maybe valve is sticking and overpressure inside.
2) Oil leaks from gearbox and engine - this could be bad, overhaul. (gearbox maybe simple output shaft seal)
7) brake pedal hard, don't know but seems broken part, booster,
6) Wheel bearings need adjustment - easy when it is apart but needs tools: front axle (c-clip spreader, #54 socket, brass drift, heavy hammer)

easy
3) number plate lights not working, upon inspection the right hand side globe mount is missing entirely. easy if power is there/gremlin
5) Shackle bushes front and rear -
4) window washers to operate.

 

[GDA62/100]

Also check for pinched/plugged tubes and clogged nozzles on the windshield washer.

 

[willyAUS]

Today in between biblical rain showers I pulled the reservoir tank and cleaned and cleared all lines = sprays work.

Also successful at a wreckers for a globe mount and fitted that = number plate lights.

Here is the diff leak, the spray is on the body above the diff bell housing.

 

[willyAUS]

That is a nasty list, can you drive it on a back road or park it a a farm to drive a bit more for testing?
What hits me is the insane "while you're there fixes" : if you replace a seal also replace the bearing next to it, and the brakes, and the hard line, and the rubber line, etc. ordering parts is a big box, then get the forgotten parts, then replace the wrong ordered parts
a lot to read (get fsm) for you about the common fixes, good luck, place pictures, if it is rust free decide if you keep it (4x4 or mall?) or sell it and a 1000 dollar on parts will make it like new and rust free is easy to sell later.

1) Rear differential leak and play - (leak wheel side or shaft side) replace seal, adjust bearing or replace, maybe valve is sticking and overpressure inside.
2) Oil leaks from gearbox and engine - this could be bad, overhaul. (gearbox maybe simple output shaft seal)
7) brake pedal hard, don't know but seems broken part, booster,
6) Wheel bearings need adjustment - easy when it is apart but needs tools: front axle (c-clip spreader, #54 socket, brass drift, heavy hammer)

easy
3) number plate lights not working, upon inspection the right hand side globe mount is missing entirely. easy if power is there/gremlin
5) Shackle bushes front and rear -
4) window washers to operate.

Thanks, the body is rust free... going to work thru the list and share my success/woe

 

[willyAUS]

Gearbox leak. I can't see where from, I'll have to scrub it, drive it and see where it starts.

 

[willyAUS]

Update on 1. Rear differential leak and play.

After calling some major diff repair places around town today, including a 4wd diff specialist, the consensus is I'll require the diff to be dropped out and all bearings, seals and shims replaced. I'm looking at $1000 AUD.

Question: has anyone encountered major differential gear wear or broken teeth, crown or pinion, when stripping their diff? If so, how bad was the damage and what km's were you at when you found it? My car has 410,000km's and I'm not sure how many km's I should expect.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Update on 1. Rear differential leak and play.

After calling some major diff repair places around town today, including a 4wd diff specialist, the consensus is I'll require the diff to be dropped out and all bearings, seals and shims replaced. I'm looking at $1000 AUD.

Question: has anyone encountered major differential gear wear or broken teeth, crown or pinion, when stripping their diff? If so, how bad was the damage and what km's were you at when you found it? My car has 410,000km's and I'm not sure how many km's I should expect.

I'd try and find a good used 3rd before paying that much. They are around 200USD here. @maat was a good resource in the Perth area but he was banned from MUD. Check around I think you'll be happy you did.

I've had upwards of 515000km ~320000 miles with no issues.

J

 

[willyAUS]

So car is booked into WA Diff Centre next week for new bearings and seals.

For 7) brakes hard I've checked all hoses and found no breaks where there might be a leak. I pulled the vacuum check valve and it is functioning fine so no cheap fix. Its looking like the brake booster needs replacing. How big a job is this?

 

[willyAUS]

Whilst I wait for feedback on brake booster replacement... here's a shot of the cruiser out the front of my house.

Oh I need a good cover for it too, I'll do a forum search for that.

 

[hj 60]

Looks better then I thought, seems worth extra money to repair and sell if you want.
Do you know more about the engine oil leak?

A cover traps water and makes scratches, a nice carport seems possible if you remove that green stuff and toss a layer of concrete.

some threads about brake booster, read about it in fsm:
Brake Booster fit - HJ60


How good should my FJ62 brakes work?

Brake Master cylinder question, FJ62

 

[willyAUS]

Thanks, I'll check them out. Here is a photo of my booster... doesn't seem to match any of the reference websites.

Excited about getting the diff repaired. I looked into 2nd hand diffs and I'd be up the same amount. Might as well put new gear in my existing one.

 

[willyAUS]

Update on the Moose.

I have had rear diff stripped and flushed, new pinion and carrier bearings, new pinion seal and collapsible spacer. They found that there was a lot of play in the bearings indicated pre load hadn't been set properly.

I adjusted the front right wheel bearing with a little nip and the play is gone. I have no leaking so I'm avoiding the cost of a full front axle rebuild for now.

When I drove it on a moving permit to the diff rebuild center it was the furthest I've driven it and really got an idea of how the beast handles; poorly. Indicates I have to go over the steering system. I'll follow the advice in this thread and report back with what I find.

My steering feels very loose and shaky

I pressure washed the underside of the car and identified the root of my engine leaks: front and rear of crank indicating on the backend a potential failing rear main seal. For the sake of stopping the hemorrhaging of cash I've cleaned it, poured in a bottle of Penrite stop leak and will hope to see the leak slow and I'll just keep an eye on it. I understand the risks with drop in oil pressure.

I'm making arrangements now to throw on OME to address action 5) from the original post and give me better ride. From there I'll attempt to get it licensed again!

 

[willyAUS]

For forum karma here is moose next to my dads 200 while we wait to drive the 60 onto the hoist for the diff work.

 

[The Machinist]

The stiff brakes might be caused by your booster not doing its job. This could be caused by brake fluid leaking out of your master cylinder and damaging the rubber diaphram of the booster.

I have a quick write-up on my thread about replacing the brake booster and master cylinder that might be helpfull. I replaced mine with a unit from a mid 90's 4Runner, (larger diaphram = more boost), but the process is the same for a stock one. Its a very straight forward process if you don't need to change the master cylinder, but gets a little more tedious if you need to replace the master cylinder and bleed the system.

The Machinist's "Project" Thread: 86' FJ60 [Lots Of Pics]

 

[willyAUS]

Thanks mate, I'll take a look!

 

[franklin40]

make sure your diff breathers are working. it sucks to have a super cheap part ruin all you rear axle work if you blow oil past your seals! ask me how i know.

 

[willyAUS]

Oh good call. Thank you.

I took the car to a landcruiser specialist and they drove the car and said the brakes are normal for a 60. Now....how do I convince the inspector that so they license it for for me?

 

[willyAUS]

Brake booster out... had to loosen up the clutch master and booster cylinder bracket. Factory service manual was awesome for validating there was actually a 3rd fxxxing mounting bolt on the clutch bracket.