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For sure, im being really careful to keep the throttle body with position sensor intact. Thanks so much for the help guys. Im having a tough time getting the large throttle plate off. The screw heads stripped easily so I had to drill them out. They were rivet on one side and screw head on the other. As you can see the drill holes are quite big and i expected the plate to come off but its stuck. The plate looks sandwiched between 2 halves of the axle. How is this supposed to come apart? The smaller plate came off easily as the axle was screwed to the plate on one side but the big one is a PIta. This is a picture of one side.

This is the other side. See how the plate is sandwiched?

Open the throttle so the plate is vertical, and gently tap it out? It's been so long I forget what I did, but I remember fighting with it too. It might only go one way. Spray some carb or brake cleaner in there so you can see what you are doing better?
 
Thanks nick, got it out! Just had to tap it iloit like you said.

Just put in new glow plugs
Here are the old ones
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Lots of carbon and pitting in the ends.
 
I made some block off plates using some sheet metal (17 guage i think) and using the gaskets as a template.
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In order to keep the automatic transmission fluid holder I made an adapter buy cutting off the bottom of the egr pipe. So to make the bottom block off; I put on the gasket, then the plate, then the "adapter" piece of pipe, then the bracket for the auto tran dipstick.
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I hooked all the egr vaccum tubing and throttle position sensor back up as before as I dont understand how all the pieces work with the computer. I didnt want to risk the engine not starting.
 
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Wow, happy to hear that your truck is running so much better already! Sounds like it must have been getting starved of air on startup then. Make sure your belts are tight to the vacuumpump/alternator/waterpump. Also make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Those are the things that may have caused the engine to be starved of air (emissions not working properly).

With regard to the wiring and vacuum hoses, here is what you need to do.

You now only need vacuum going to the 4x4 transfer case solenoids on the drivers side of the fire wall. So the vacuum source that used to run across the top of the engine to the emissions stuff can be capped off.

Remove the emissions VSVs and throw them in a box somewhere (they can be useful as spare's sometimes). Leave the plugs dangling that used to be plugged into the emissions VSVs. The computer doesn't know the difference, as they are all outputs, not inputs.

Yes, you definitely still need the throttle position sensor plugged in. You still need the vacuum hose from the throttle body to the boost sensor. All the other engine sensors still need to be plugged in too (boost sensor, engine temp sensor, crank sensor, Ne sensor and calibration resistors at the injection pump)

Here are a few pictures of mine after I did the same job a few years ago (for your reference). The vacuum line that is still running across the top of the motor in this picture is t'ed off from the line that goes to the boost sensor. It runs to my boost gauge. This is a good spot to read boost from. I recommend you read your boost here instead of on the waste gate line as you have it now. This will give you a much more accurate boost reading:

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Hey guys, I gotta do at least 2 glow cycles in the summer and 3 to 4 in the winter, for a primo start. Also, one winter, my pump started leaking fuel. I had it resealed at timing belt change and it has been good ever since. Still got lots o mods to do, but life is busy.
Side note, I met a fellow today and he was saying that he got a re-designed head from All Head Services in Aus, and that his cooling troubles were pretty much non-existent after that. Have you heard of any reports about said products?
 
Hey guys, I gotta do at least 2 glow cycles in the summer and 3 to 4 in the winter, for a primo start. Also, one winter, my pump started leaking fuel. I had it resealed at timing belt change and it has been good ever since. Still got lots o mods to do, but life is busy.
Side note, I met a fellow today and he was saying that he got a re-designed head from All Head Services in Aus, and that his cooling troubles were pretty much non-existent after that. Have you heard of any reports about said products?

When the pumps get worn the timing gets a bit retarded. On startup the computer relies on the pump base timing. Once the vehicle is running the computer ignores that and uses the sensors (crank and pump timing sensor) to set accurate timing. So what a number of people have done is advance the pump base timing a bit to help starting. I did this, and it helps immensely. Just loosen the pump mount bolts, and rotate the top of the pump towards the engine block. You can check the timing mark on the ear of the pump. I advanced mine about 1mm or so. Meant I only glow once when it's above 10C, and twice if it's below. Before I was glowing as much as you.

Other things that can cause the problem is an aging battery, or weak charging system, faulty engine coolant sensor (under intake mani). Sometimes even resetting the computer once in a while will help.

I've heard the All Head Services cylinder heads are good also. However the second generation 2LTE head is good as well. Most people don't know this, but they kept making those engines into the 2000's. After the first four years of production they came out with a new head that is stronger and lasts much longer. Part # 11101-54121 I believe.
 
Thanks for that, I might try that this summer. I believe my truck was just past the production date and actually has the better head, but I still managed to get a small crack in it anyway. It is in one of my exhaust ports I think, as the only effects I can note are a sometimes cloud of white burning coolant on startup and bubbling in my overflow tank, when I have been working it. It stills has lots of power and runs smooth, so I will operate it like this till I manage to get some of the mods taken care of, then replace the head and go to waterless coolant. It is still my daily driver, so I'm not doing too bad.
 
Thanks for that, I might try that this summer. I believe my truck was just past the production date and actually has the better head, but I still managed to get a small crack in it anyway. It is in one of my exhaust ports I think, as the only effects I can note are a sometimes cloud of white burning coolant on startup and bubbling in my overflow tank, when I have been working it. It stills has lots of power and runs smooth, so I will operate it like this till I manage to get some of the mods taken care of, then replace the head and go to waterless coolant. It is still my daily driver, so I'm not doing too bad.

I didn't think any 70 series Prado's came with the better head....but maybe i'm wrong.
 

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