Recent content by vfrer

When my master failed I would be stopped and gradually lose brake pressure and the truck would start moving unless I pressed harder. Here is the FSM booster test...

Interested in the FD knob and cable

OP asked about cruisers with no bezels, was just an idea to see how it looks.

Check out pics of FJ25's. They don't have bezels but have cross bars that go across the opening.

Sounded like a great guy. Such an awesome truck. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rip-andrew-farmer.270125/

I measured a new rear floor and mid bed panel (real steel) and they both were 40 7/8" From this image it appears that the factory dimension is 1015mm which is more like 40" but as you found they are typically closer to 41".

This is what people have found to be similar to stock. https://www.canalrubber.com/matting-pyramid-vinyl-matting/

Definitely welded by PO. All components of the frame are rivited togther from factory with the exception of a couple brackets in the front frame horns AFAIK

Check the wiring splice... See post 11 https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-dome-light-comes-on-on-lr-door-not-rr-door.816242/

Here's a set for $20. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C2JY39MG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Was thinking my truck was missing the light but this is how my '67 is, hole under that is blocked by the heater but no hole in the dash. I never even knew that hole was under there. Glad I don't need to find a vader light!

I happen to have an A pillar that I cut out of a 76 i believe. This is the lower hinge mount. Upper is the same

There is definitely a nut plate that the bolts screw into and have some play. You can remove/loosen the lower hinge bolts which are much easier to get to and see how much play there is before getting all twisted and scraped up getting the top ones.

There was one of those blue threads in 2011 too... https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/show-off-your-blue-fj40.469645/

I've used a tie rod fork to get the coupler to move