Recent content by Dominic Nicandri

No i have not gotten an answer to it. 5000 more miles this year and no change in anything, still runs fine just throws the code if consistently over 3000 rpm. I was trying to find someone with a scanner that can look at live sensor data earlier this year but got busy with other stuff.

Well after having everything apart multiple times, I finally found it. As i thought, it was a rock between the rotor and the backing plate... in the rear. I also found the shop I hired to redo the rear brakes improperly adjusted the parking brake in the process. All fixed! Replaced my rotted...

Well after taking the front wheels off and disassembling the brake calipers again, now i think it might be in the rear actually. I may have had two different squeaks going on. I just had the rears redone last year by a shop that went out of business (pressed for time I couldn't do them myself...

Thank you for the details on that. I think just viewing these photos versus whats in my memory that something might be amiss with the pad retainer. I will double check. Front axle shafts are nearly new and I put in proper new retainer clips. Lower ball joints are also new. Proper backlash as...

Hello, yes, it was fresh gravel on asphalt AKA chip seal. I will recheck the front calipers again as I also noticed the other day what i thought was the pads rattling, maybe I put an anti-rattle clip in wrong or something. I have isolated to right side based on driving with my head out the car...

Unfortunately that has yielded nothing... Even bolting a pry bar across the hub I can't generate enough force to duplicate the lateral load hard cornering makes.

This has been intermittent and driving me nuts since last summer. I initially thought I got a rock stuck in my caliper because it began when driving on fresh chip seal. Since them, at seemingly random intervals I get a terrible screeching at wheel speed, when making a hard or high speed left...

Well here is a 6000 mile update. Build a bed platform and took a trip to Wyoming and Montana. Still has a check engine light if you spin it over 3000 rpm, I figure it has to be a wiring impedance issue or something. Did really well in the thin air, got over 20 mpg on one tank driving around...

Cool, thanks for the tips. I am going to get some of those Gamiviti units. BTW nice E30, I have one of those too.

I have been searching around and see where folks have used rivnuts or drilled and used washers to mount things on factory crossbars, but they look like later model units that are all-metal. The crossbars on my 98 LX have a rubber insert on them that I am guessing ( I havent tried removing yet)...

I went through several items on this circuit. I unplugged the window switches, mirror switch, remote keyless module, door lock module, sunroof.... and still had the constant draw. So unless there is a window module somewhere i can't find, I am assuming its the alarm module which is impossible...

I have been plagued with a battery drain, 320 milliamps that has been killing the battery in around 3 days. I thought I traced it to the stereo circuit, which proved false. The draw is on the big fuse 32, which looks like it controls power windows, locks and sunroof. I need to start digging in...

I forgot about the antenna. I purchased a fixed Rubber Duckie style unit from some place in Wisconsin. Plug and play. Doesn't look OEM but works great and thats fine by me.

3000 mile update. All the repairs I made have turned out well. Oil pressure is low at idle which is unsettling but a manual gauge shows that it has about 8 psi at heat soaked idle which is within Toyota spec and clearly would have blown up by now if it was an issue, so I just have to learn to...

Mine has copper washers. I always reuse copper washers, just anneal them when they are off and they will seal perfectly every time.