Recent content by baselfish

welp some 13 years since the OP and 3 years since last - am reviving this thread - p401 came on for me - #1. removed the upper manifold - as daunting as this may look - it is only a few 12 bolts and nuts - three of which you will be able to easily accces from below (they are all above the...

Howdees all kudos to cruiser yard - picked up their Seiken Brake Booster - was $374.99 OTD - Shipping et al.... installed like a dream - all in all a :banana: job - requiring little more than a 12 mm socket and extender and some gentle contorting of the master cylinder lines and fiddling...

howdees all just got done tackling my a/c compressor / clutch issues here my $0.02 - hopefully can thusly help you out someday. obviously actually replacing a/c compressor is a "big deal" - i did not DIY that - but rather pulled it "off" the block and "inspected" / broke down the clutch /...

howdees all indeed have not been on MUD for sometime - but here a little 80 series anecdote..... was driving down the road the other day - guy in a super large dodge ram - pulls up beside me indeed quite fast and hovers / lingers in my passenger blind spot - like he is police or a some sort...

howdees all... just finished with my ome / arb 861 & 862 springs replacement. for the uninitiated - these are the oem replacements - yielding a reported ~.75 lift (no castor correction needed) am running these with toyota shocks and the OME SD24 steering damper #1. ride comfort and handling...

a bit of disconnect from your title & link - indeed if you are going to "bump stop" - id recommend 3/4" breaker - NOT 1/2 " Neiko 00207B 3/4 in. Drive x 24 in. Premium Breaker Bar - Socket Wrenches - Amazon.com and even with such - I had a 36" cheater pipe attached - to give it more "length...

also forget not yer water pump.... indeed if you are going to break / drain h20 system - put in a t-flush and new tstat - whislt you are up in there- might think about the water pump.... does sound like your heater core may be "clogged" as well - and that is an easy flush too - with some clr...

but if you were to want to replace the OEM SS - this is your tool... Amazon.com: OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover: Automotive there are several "nightmare" posts about the OEM SS - but indeed with the 7315a - takes all of 30 seconds - just be warned when it does "pop" off - tis a lot...

yes indeed - provided you don't jack up the internal threads - tis basically a two step process - "burnish" the head - then filp the bit and (hopefully) it grabs good metal and is able to unscrew the bolt - they key is to not over "burnish" - where in you are then drilling into the "block...

indeed....new bold - provided you don't damage the internal threads.... not sure what you mean by "broke" if the head is completely sheared - go for something like this... Damaged Screw Extractor and Remove Set by Aisxle, Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made From H.S.S. 4341#, the...

pics might help a bit.... the bottom shock mount bolt is notorious for being rusted out - (plenty of posts) pray that that is what he is referring to - not that fabricating a new actual mount is impossible (as stated above) - will need more toolz / skillz than your avg. home mudder... BF

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

indeed my golden rule - if you even look at the heater valve - change it (imho) tis more of a general liability than the PHH mine failed - whislt my phh was totally fine - cooling flush can be done 2 ways - "t-flush" or simply by running distilled through over and over - the there 4 major...

heres thread i did a whilst ago.... So your PO was an idiot and haxed up your OEM car audio harness... Bf

you got it - color to color....there might be a left over wire (for steering wheel controls) - your pioneer manual should give you good reference too.... I likes to do the generic "bullet" connectors (from home depot) so one can remove the metra from the aftermarket harness.... again should...