howdees all
just got done tackling my a/c compressor / clutch issues
here my $0.02 - hopefully can thusly help you out someday.
obviously actually replacing a/c compressor is a "big deal" - i did not DIY that - but rather pulled it "off" the block
and "inspected" / broke down the clutch / pulley assembly....
so to do so - you are (obviously going to need to) loosed the belt from the crank -
if you a super new.... such only requires removing the bottom skid plate and accessing the tightening pulley and pulley lock nut....
you want even more access take off the left side steering damper bracket but it is not needed....
then the a/c belt then comes off both the crank and a/c pulley -
from there - you can "test" the pulley bearing for noise / grinding and run out / wobble...(thats what i was looking for)
again obvious there are 2 a/c line (low and high) - you will need to unscrew the hard line brackets
to give you more flew (2 bolts - one against the fire wall)
there is nothing to unbolt from the low pressure line....
there is a small harness atop the compressor - that will need to be unplugged....
this is part 82221-60020 Oil pressure switch wire
indeed disconnect this from both the a/c and oil pressure sender (easily 2 clip off)
as well as from the connector by the washing fluid res.
now too would be a good time to remove you radiator overflow.
there are only 4 long bolts holding the a/c compressor to the block....(easy access)
so now with the a/c compressor free from the block - lines loosen - and the
oil pressure wire out of the way -
you will have a fair amount of room to swing the a/c compressor out
and address the clutch, snap ring, pulley, another snap ring, and finally magneto...
youtube any a/c clutch - they are all basically the same (eric the car guy has a good one)
i was able to get my small air gun to "zip" off the 10 mm bolt from the clutch.
tis always an issue on a loosening a free spinning nut and there are really any "hold fast"
places on the clutch to say wedge a screwdriver - guess there is always a strap wrenches or channel locks.
(side note - the clutch has a CRUCIAL washer - that basically sets the gaping
from the clutch and pulley - DONT LOOSE THIS - once you have the 10 mm nut free
gently remove the clutch and look for this washer - it may be inside the bore -
what ever the case may be - find it and keep it safe)
now the snap rings - just because of the confined space may be an issue....tis a tough angle
the pulley one was the "hardest" for me and the magento one was much easier....
the pulley might be "stuck" - but with some gentle tapping (small mallet and wood block)
it came off.
all in all tis job - requiring no special tools (other than a snap ring pliers)
once "free" of the block - there is plenty of space to work.
you will easily be able to replace the enite clutch / magneto assembly or just the bearing -
without ever "breaking open" the a/c system.
for me - the whole assembly was fine - bearing smooth AF -
what was making the noise was the snap ring grove for the pulley had broken / sheered off....
so in effect my a/c compressor is "broke"
i repacked the pulley bearing and put everything back
(dont forget that oil pressure wire or you wont get any reading on your dash)
my a/c runs perfectly fine - but indeed (since there is no snap ring fxing my pulley)
when not engaged - from time to time i can hear it drag on the clutch.....
am debating if i want to do the full monty -
i can easily have any small time shop - suck out the refrigerant
and just replace the a/c compressor -
but it appears most recommend "doing" the whole thing new -
compressor - condenser, evap core, drier - etc.....
i heard the evap core was a major PITA to get to....
maybe ill wait till winter to do what i can and not have a a/c for 3 months
as i DIY what i can....
anyways - again hope this helps someone - someday.....
cheers....
bf
265k and still rolling....
just got done tackling my a/c compressor / clutch issues
here my $0.02 - hopefully can thusly help you out someday.
obviously actually replacing a/c compressor is a "big deal" - i did not DIY that - but rather pulled it "off" the block
and "inspected" / broke down the clutch / pulley assembly....
so to do so - you are (obviously going to need to) loosed the belt from the crank -
if you a super new.... such only requires removing the bottom skid plate and accessing the tightening pulley and pulley lock nut....
you want even more access take off the left side steering damper bracket but it is not needed....
then the a/c belt then comes off both the crank and a/c pulley -
from there - you can "test" the pulley bearing for noise / grinding and run out / wobble...(thats what i was looking for)
again obvious there are 2 a/c line (low and high) - you will need to unscrew the hard line brackets
to give you more flew (2 bolts - one against the fire wall)
there is nothing to unbolt from the low pressure line....
there is a small harness atop the compressor - that will need to be unplugged....
this is part 82221-60020 Oil pressure switch wire
82221-60020 Genuine Toyota Wire, Oil Pressure Switch
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 82221-60020 (8222160020) Wire, Oil Pressure Switch for $65.88. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
indeed disconnect this from both the a/c and oil pressure sender (easily 2 clip off)
as well as from the connector by the washing fluid res.
now too would be a good time to remove you radiator overflow.
there are only 4 long bolts holding the a/c compressor to the block....(easy access)
so now with the a/c compressor free from the block - lines loosen - and the
oil pressure wire out of the way -
you will have a fair amount of room to swing the a/c compressor out
and address the clutch, snap ring, pulley, another snap ring, and finally magneto...
youtube any a/c clutch - they are all basically the same (eric the car guy has a good one)
i was able to get my small air gun to "zip" off the 10 mm bolt from the clutch.
tis always an issue on a loosening a free spinning nut and there are really any "hold fast"
places on the clutch to say wedge a screwdriver - guess there is always a strap wrenches or channel locks.
(side note - the clutch has a CRUCIAL washer - that basically sets the gaping
from the clutch and pulley - DONT LOOSE THIS - once you have the 10 mm nut free
gently remove the clutch and look for this washer - it may be inside the bore -
what ever the case may be - find it and keep it safe)
now the snap rings - just because of the confined space may be an issue....tis a tough angle
the pulley one was the "hardest" for me and the magento one was much easier....
the pulley might be "stuck" - but with some gentle tapping (small mallet and wood block)
it came off.
all in all tis job - requiring no special tools (other than a snap ring pliers)
once "free" of the block - there is plenty of space to work.
you will easily be able to replace the enite clutch / magneto assembly or just the bearing -
without ever "breaking open" the a/c system.
for me - the whole assembly was fine - bearing smooth AF -
what was making the noise was the snap ring grove for the pulley had broken / sheered off....
so in effect my a/c compressor is "broke"
i repacked the pulley bearing and put everything back
(dont forget that oil pressure wire or you wont get any reading on your dash)
my a/c runs perfectly fine - but indeed (since there is no snap ring fxing my pulley)
when not engaged - from time to time i can hear it drag on the clutch.....
am debating if i want to do the full monty -
i can easily have any small time shop - suck out the refrigerant
and just replace the a/c compressor -
but it appears most recommend "doing" the whole thing new -
compressor - condenser, evap core, drier - etc.....
i heard the evap core was a major PITA to get to....
maybe ill wait till winter to do what i can and not have a a/c for 3 months
as i DIY what i can....
anyways - again hope this helps someone - someday.....
cheers....
bf
265k and still rolling....