Hey yall, My 1980 fj40 does not have a throttle cable going from the gas pedal to the carburetor (currently replaced with a sniper)
I have some mechanical linkages, as one does for that year, any guesses on how to mate with my sniper?
1980 FJ40, that I just recently grabbed and wanted to see if it would crank. Long story short It will not crank. When I have the key set to the "on state" I am only getting 6 volts to the coil/igniter. There is nothing else in this circuit. I have a wire coming into the key and a wire going out...
Overall the front clip looks good (earlier year hood cause split hoods are rad) currently no floor boards cause rust. The bed is rusty but solid...has some major rust in the upper fender wells under the roll bar mounts. Then the rear corners are eaten up like most old used and abused cruisers...
First things first.... I dont wanna talk about the bad day I had....
So as you can see I was driving and the tire decided it didnt wanna be apart of the team no more. The drum also jumped ship 🤷♂️.
I am thinking my path forward is gonna be unbending what I can and building a custom bumper...
So at this point, I have replaced both the condenser and the coil (it was time to fire the parts cannon) and still no spark. With the new coil on the negative I am not getting any voltage. So I am at a complete loss at this point. 12v into the coil, nothing out
Hoping to Trade my 68 ford bronco for an early model FJ40 (bifold hatch would be ideal :D but I am open minded). open to cash negotiations as well with it. Both the broncos and FJ40's are highly desireable, which is cool and all, but It would be rad if cool vehicles were still accessible for...
its a 62, with a 71 engine in it. I think at this point I have it narrowed down to a bad condesnor... Guess ill find out tomorrow when autozone gets it in stock
10/10 have the plugs going to the wrong spots. Gonna fix that later today, but that still doesnt explain not having a spark. Once I can get a second set of hands tonight I will pull the spark plug out and visually test the plug vs having a light installed in the spark plug line
The contacts looked good to me, no grime (has not really been driven since we placed new points in a few years ago) and no pitting. I gapped it to .018 like the manual said. Pain in the ass getting that done with all them moving bits not wanting to stay put. I dont fully understand the LT line...
So... I probably messed up the spark plug wires if I am reading this right. But Even if those wires were 100 percent wrong, I still should have gotten a light on my inline spark plug bulb thing. Which says to me I am not getting a spark. So to this message
tomorrow morning I am going to just...
I checked the graphite button and it was getting 4 volts and it rebounded when pressed. I think I was having some spark problems prior to playing with the timing. The exhaust seemed to be pulsing when it was idling (choke closed, it would die with it open)
So, update. I ran continutity checks on all of my wires. All passed, I installed an inline spark plug light on #1 and cranked the ol girl over and got nothing. So I am not getting a spark. I checked the LT wire going into the distibutor and it has 12 volts on it. I figured Id see what my voltage...
I found the multimeter at one of them reclaimed baggage shops in alabama, and I appreciate the guidance hopefully after some long head scratching and learning tonight I'll have some combustion happening