Nothinghead

Didn’t feel like yard work today so I got this done instead :cheers:

I had her side blades ‘de-chromed’ now that the wheels aren’t bright silver anymore. Really loving the overall look now!

You'll appreciate it more, knowing how it compares to what you have now. Will you DIY it?

Changing to lithium was one of the best upgrades I've made to my trailer. It saves weight, you can move the battery inside and away from the tongue if tongue weight is a concern, you can get more accurate measurements of capacity remaining and it...

Obviously, you're on 18" wheels but a bump of a couple PSI should feel good for towing.

Nice! I’ll use 20mm rear spring spacers when I get there and probably tundra brake lines, if I remember reading correctly.

Thank you!

These are the extended travel tundra brake lines for your reference: https://toyteclifts.com/ss-tun7-extended-rear-brake-lines-for-07-tundra.html

I think I’m about to that point. I’m sensor lifted but the ride is okay-ish (hard to know if it’s aging globes or the E rated tires). I have globes, fluid and both the top hat spacers and shock mount extensions from E&E off road waiting to go in...

There should be threads on here about fitment of that size and setup. This was the first oversized tire I put on so I can’t speak to other configurations.

Those are LT295/70r18. I’m also on 1.25” spidertrax spacers. 1” would be perfect to keep them flush with fenders (I hate poke) and still clear UCAs. I’m sensor lifted and massaged/moved fender liners. When I move to 35x11.50 tires, I’ll likely...

I was momentarily confused about where I had parked:

I think the E&E 13mm front spacer and the E&E rear lower shock relocation bracket are getting conflated here. FRONT: just get the E&E 13mm spacer, that's the only part needed for the front suspension. This is the simplest product that maximizes...

What’s the right bump stop choice to go with rear spring spacers and E&E shock brackets to prevent bottoming out the read shock/ram?

I added a remote on switch with relay and remote air coupler for onboard air:

My hands stopped bleeding, so I’ve got that going for me.

I completed this today since I don’t care to see 220°-240° when towing in the mountains around here. I was able to get it in without removing the bumper but my almost-skinny-enough arms and hands paid a price. I wasn’t able to secure hoses away...

Nice. When I first had my current 40, the windshield blew out of the crusty windshield gasket on the interstate at 70 mph. The only thing keeping it from coming in at me was the rear view mirror arm.

The truck is completely rebuilt. Every nut and bolt gone through. I'm thorough, and not crazy Brand new terrain tamer suspension too, which rocks.

Man, I hope your brakes, suspension, tires, steering and alignment are dialed in. I don't think my paint and rust would even handle that speed.

Type 2 fun

It’s only an m8 thread so it shouldn’t be super tight but more likely rusted in place. Just be prepared to have it break. Of course, you’re in CA so you might have better luck.

I’d hit the back side with a generous amount of penetrating fluid (there should be a hole in the LCA in the top to spray into) a day before you try cracking it free. I used a regular pipe wrench (monkey wrench) and got one side free but broke the...

It’s 8 sided so you could just use your plumbers wrench to break it off the rusted threads, then drop the LCA and drill out the stud, re-tap the hole and then put your aftermarket bump stop in like I did. Here’s an actual measurement...

Not my mother