CharlieS

So I already have the engine in and engine mounts made. And the full exhaust made So what I have left before it’s back on the road Water to air intercooler water pump and heat exchanger Brake booster vacuum pump or put a Ibooster in it I...

Alright so a little background I’ve had all kinds of vehicles and have done all kinds of engine swaps, LS3 in a 3rd gen Tacoma. LMM duramax in a 80. Full Tesla swap in a 1st gen Tacoma. ect ect… So I wanted in my opinion the best vehicle ever...

Don't let him near anything you own again

I'd dump his ass in the outback and make him walk home if I was an Australian like you.

Easy to make your own 'bung' to keep the crap out. Get a fitting (female coupler), get a 'plug', drill hole through end to attach stainless safety wire so you don't lose the 'bung'. Couple of o-rings to fully seal and you're good to go. Had this...

In my experience with other mechanical distribution, it was due to water that made it's way into the distributor cap.

You have to unplug everything electrical connector, blow it out and let it dry out.

I left that whole top horizontal plastic panel off. Not ideal, but workable. The hidden winch mount is a total compromise, since you can't see the spool.

I cut part of my front bumper slats so i can reach my hand in from the front: Media - 200 series picture thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/200-series-picture-thread.257436/post-16029136

As said before, thanks for the tips. Completed last week with some different components and additions. Stole your idea for the box, fits great in that area with a simple bracket.

This 83181-20040? If that is what they want to replace, then that quote is criminal. I mean, I think I could replace mine within 2 minutes....just saying.. $171.11 from PartSouq.com

found OEM: 90980-11153

The number is on the back of the connector housing. Prefix it with 90980- Details are in the Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E), in the Resources Forum, 80 series section.

I have a set of six connectors that I'd gladly send you for the cost of postage. Drop me a message.

or, you can buy it from Ballenger as a kit. You'll likely need new seals, so just cut the terminals off, crimp new ones on and be done with it.

But if yours are as brittle as most, you could just crush the plastic and it'll crumble. Ballinger motorspors sells the plastic housings cheap. Put the factory pins in the new plastic connector and job done.

You pull up the white lock tab and use a really small flat head or a depining tool.

The Australian Door Cards are set up to reuse the factory lower storage bins. I left mine off, but that was a choice I made. Oops, guess you are talking about some other product.

I got the oil pump apart! I borrowed the driver, I need to buy a jis bit set.

Pigtail with connector: CONN-85971Sumitomo 2 Way TS Plug Pigtail for Denso Injectors, (Toyota # 90980-11153) https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4073

During the repair Lee turned to me and asked “do you hear that? Sounds like something is boiling.” Giving how my steering is responding after the repair I’d say it was my power steering fluid. The power steering hose has an U shaped metal pipe...

With MC seats, you are blind stapling into the seat pan, correct? Whereas in this situation, you are somewhat down in a trough and need to close the staple on the carpet side. I don't see how to do it cleanly without a stapler with a raised...

Example of the assembly I am looking for (thanks to Kevin L). The crossmember that goes between the frame rails and the winch.

I haven't done it with this, but I have reupholstered motorcycle seats (fabric cover, foam, plastic backing) and an electric stapler make short work.

OEM motors are not NLA. You got to get creative folks if you want OEM parts, just because the USA part # is dead doesn’t mean the parts are NLA. There are other markets and updated parts...