Paul_A

A back space issue, plain and simple. If it rubs either static or with a turning deflection try a 1/4" wheel spacer on the front to clear the tie rod ends.

Mark: Where are you going in NY? If close to me we can connect for a beer at my Vet's Club in Cooperstown, right across the street from the Baseball Hall of Fame.

I bought it.

Wonderful back story!

Pulling that selector unit and replacing the o-ring should be a pretty easy job. Check the feel of the shaft, it might need some polishing. There's not much to it.

So far I think 2. I had a good opportunity to grab all sorts of parts off one crushed in a barn collapse many years ago and have used a few over the years as necessary. I also got some running gear off a wreck but I think that hasn't been...

And before you start get toe-in measurements at front and back of the tires with a tape measure.

One door looks like a replacement and I'm sure everyone caught the wrong side up bezel. A perfect project.

There's something about the sound of music or a Red Sox game called on an AM radio that brings me back to my youth and the days of summer.

Same here, top's off most of the time so I use a remote kill switch on the electrics and I've got nothing else worth stealing.

The only thing I like about it is (if I am correct) it seems to take some of the rotational torque off the back of the aluminum t-case.

I think those bulbs require a certain minimum voltage to fire up and if your voltage is weak due to dirty connections or a bleed they may not work at all. I don't think they dim like a conventional bulb browns out--I think it's just lit or no...

I was so impressed that I just ordered a set of struts to convert mine. Hopefully it will go just like in the video. Now to go get me some flip flops for the install.

For welding find someone who can do old school stitch welding. It's not hard, takes time, but most buzz box zappers are in too much of a rush.

I'd be looking at it. I've seen a lot of overdone sh*t boxes for more than $15K.