Drive shaft vs oil pan (1 Viewer)

[kcustom73]

Need to pick your brains...

So I'm finally at the point where I was able to get my drive shafts made for my stretched FJ40. Because of the stretched body and drivetrain I had to get custom shafts. Local shop made them (very nice work btw) for me and I was sure that I would clear the transmissions oil pan (drivetrain combo: GM 6.5 diesel turbo, 4L80e, np203 & Toyota splitcase). But of course, like everything else on this project, the drive shaft didn't clear. I got them to give me more then stock travel but I still get interference.

What to do??? I could notch the oil pan as doesn't need much to clear. This is with no flex in the suspension (little worried when the passenger side will be in full compression, mind you the truck is SUA on OME springs) Any other options?

Help a guy out that would love to finally get this thing on the road.

 

[Gumby]

You could go with a stub shaft or a smaller diameter, thicker wall shaft, or notch the pan.

Can you raise the engine or move it over to the driver side a smidge?


Honestly, I'd notch the pan.

 

[inkpot]

Have you got the lsip joint at the bottom? If so, just swap ends. Works both ways. John

 

[uglyoinker]

I'd like to see a pic of the situation.

 

[fieldsken1]

Yes pictures would help

 

[kcustom73]

Gumby, no room to move the motor has I would hit my steering shaft.

Inkpot, slip joint is already at that end. I would need a longer slip join to clear the entire pan.

I'll try and get some pics tonight when I'm in the shop.

BTW does anybody know how much a drive shaft travel in the up direction when the passenger side wheel is completly stuffed with a OME lift?

 

[mookie]

You need a two piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing, you could probably modify one from the rear of a longbed mini-truck to work for you

 

[Mace]

You need a two piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing, you could probably modify one from the rear of a longbed mini-truck to work for you

Bingo.

Both my 40 and 60 have two piece front driveshafts. They work great.

 

[kcustom73]

Mace, do you have a build thread on the 40 that shows the 2 piece drive shaft?

 

[Mace]

yeah, in my 40 and 60 series threads there is one. But it's honestly easier to just grab a new pic.

One sec.

 

[Mace]

Crappy cellphone pics

 

[kcustom73]

Mace, thank you for the pics. Gives me some ideas.

Here are some pics of what I've got now. If I go 2 piece, I could probably build something off of the trans cross member for the bearing.

Pic1: looking at the t-case
Pic2: side shot taken from the driver side
Pic3: straight from the bottom

Drive shaft is as for up as I can get it before hitting the pan. I'm about 1/2" from lining up the drive shaft with the diff flange.

 

[reddingcruiser]

I have a similar issue on my 40 with a 700R4/4L60 with an early Downey adapter plate, so things are REAL tight. The marks on your photo #2 represents pretty much what I took out of my oil pan. Basically I took about a 40º wedge out of the pan down the most of the length of the left side and TIG welded in a new piece. Just be sure you clear the internal components (i.e. valve body, etc.). The good news is there is less travel on the upper end of the driveline then at the axle.

I have plenty of Rubicon trips on mine with zero problems.

Sorry, I didn't have any good pictures of the build saved on my computer.

 

[reddingcruiser]

I did find two pictures from the early mock-up stage just to show you how tight things can be and still work, and maybe help you feel more confident about cutting into your pan.

 

[chicago]

I ran into this w/ my 4l60e and split case.
Mine did have a bit more clearance to begin with.
There is a pan that IS NOTCHED as everyone's talking about, but it required a different VB.
Hate to admit this, but I just kinda dented in the edge where it was likely going to contact.
At full stuff, it's barely rubbed the paint off the DS.
I Didn't realize that the DS could be run w/ the slip at the t case end?!
The DS guy said it wasn't a good idea, bit I guess for the front on a wheeler... Wouldn't make much of a difference.

 

[Mace]

Chicago, think of how many rear driveshafts have the slip integrated into the tranny output..

 

[Gumby]

Yup. If you want to do it clean, just take off the pan and weld up a notch. If you want it to just work clearance it with a ball peen. You're way to close to being good to go through the two piece hassle.

 

[Mace]

Yup. If you want to do it clean, just take off the pan and weld up a notch. If you want it to just work clearance it with a ball peen. You're way to close to being good to go through the two piece hassle.

after seeing the pics I agree wholeheartedly..

 

[chicago]

Anyone know how far the valve body hangs down into the pan??
I had thought about cutting the pan and welding a bevel into it to clear better, but.... I really just wanted to get wheeling, so the hammer job was the solution at that point.

 

[Gumby]

depends on where on the valve body.