Good source for Clutch kit - OEM mine is stuck (2 Viewers)

[diggity]

Hi All,

I have read all sorts of similar threads and have checked most common things suggested (I think).

Prior to all of the below, the tranny had started screaming when pushing in the clutch pedal and it sounded to me like the release bearing may have been starting to go bad.

Short story. Took the 40 swimming and motor cut off (not orig. dizzy). After 4 hour recovery, no spark. truck sat for 2 days and finally figured out it was the points still wet (thought they were dried).

Drove the 40 about 12 miles 8 days ago, pulled in garage and drained both diffs and the engine fluids. Replaced with new.

2 nights later (early last week) checked TC fluid and it was fine. drained tranny (milky) and let sit for 2 nights draining as it was cold as hell and the fluid is thick. Finished up with tranny fluid and went to back the truck out of the garage this past Saturday and it would not go into any gear with the truck running. Truck off and I can get it into all gears. Does not change regardless of 2H, 4H, 4L on the TC.

Clutch master is clean and full, does not appear to be leaking externally. Slave operates the fork correctly and it is all adjusted to FSM. (I have not tried beeding the system yet, worth trying at this point?).

Put the truck in reverse (I am pulled into my garage) and with the clutch pedal pushed down tried starting...truck was still in gear and started wanting to move a little...

This is where I am now and unless there are some other thoughts, I thought I would go ahead and replace the following.

- disc
- pressure plate
- release bearing
- pilot bearing
- rear main seal

Anyway, Auto Parts at Auto Parts Way - Car Parts, Import Parts, Truck Parts, Auto Accessories has the disc, pressure plate (Aisin) and Koyo release bearing and Nachi pilot bearing all for about 170.00

Any other thoughts or suggestions on either correcting the problem or thoughts on what else should be replaced while I am in there would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, this is all stock Toyota stuff i am working on. 2F and 4 sp (H41/H42 whichever one is the less desired one )

Thank in advance.

Brad

 

[dgangle]

Your clutch may be froze. By froze I mean water below 32F froze. Thaw out and try again.

 

[diggity]

Hi dgangle - it would be nice if that was the case, the 40 stays in the garage and it was mid 40's here today, so I suspect it would be thawed by now, I will run out in the garage in a few minutes and pump the pedal again and try it.

 

[kbill45]

clutch

I think your disc is rust/frozen to the pressure plate. Remove the dust shield, wedge a stick or have someone hold the clutch pedal down and take a flat piece of metal like a long table knife and force it between the disc and pressure plate to pop it loose.
This is pretty common in humid areas where the vehicle sets in a wet area for an extended lengt of time. I will bet you a beer this works. Bill

 

[kbill45]

clutch

Sorry I meant to say flywheel. Both should be free anyway. Then start the engine and work clutch several times to remove any remaining rust.

 

[diggity]

Hi kbill45 - I looked through the FSM and did not see a dust shield. I also have not crawled underneath it yet Will the shield be obvious when I do? I am going to order the clutch pieces above I mentioned from that place unless someone has a better suggestion, but it would be nice to drive it until I get the stuff replaced.

Thanks again for the response all.

Brad

 

[diggity]

Another point I left out, the truck turned off will shift gear to gear fine, except reverse is very hard to get into...and it will not start while in gear regardless of the clutch pedal position.

 

[bsmith123]

pics

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/245021-pics-oem-p-ns-rear-main-clutch-change.html


There are some pics here you might find useful ---look at post 4 and you can see the dust shields removed


Also some pns you might need if you go for changing it but I think you should try and free it also.

 

[kbill45]

clutch

I think you need help. If you didn't know that you had to crawl under the truck to find the dust cover you need help. It is the metal cover right behind the engine oil pan. Remove it and you will see the clutch assembly and flywheel. Then follow the procedure I outlined and most likely spend nothing. If you want to get to know your truck you have go for it and learn. We are trying to help. That is what this board is all about. Bill

 

[diggity]

Bill - Perhaps I was not clear enough. I do go for it, I did know I had to crawl under the truck, I was just pointing out that so far all I had done since your suggestion was look through the FSM (which is why I had the smiley face) and that I had not been under the 40 to look for myself yet.

I may crawl under there later tonight or tomorrow after work and I will update. As I mentioned in the first post the release bearing was screaming some for the last couple of months, so I will go ahead and order the parts anyway, but want to drive it over the next couple of days weeks.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will update tomorrow night.

Brad

 

[kbill45]

clutch

If the bearing is shot then this is a good time to do the whole job. Be sure to add a rear main oil seal to that list. I once had to remove the trans, clutch, flywheel and bellhousing to replace the rear freeze plug that had a pin hole. So I now replace that too. Probably won't ever happen again but at least I won't ever do $400 worth of labor to replace a $2 part again. Good luck.

 

[dgangle]

Champion Toyota Houston Texas

For OE parts I have had exceptional service, pricing and delivery from Champion Toyota in Houston. Speak to Jeff and request the TLCA discount. He will ship it to your door. I have bought brake pads, rotors, MC's, cases of oil filters, a color-matched OE rear spoiler for my 4R and countless gasket, seals...anything Toyota for every Toyota I have owned in the last 10 years. 800-327-2087 or 713-943-7010.

 

[FJ40Jim]

X3 on the disc is rust welded to the flywheel.

Couple ways to unstick:
Apply P-brake, put trans in 4th gear, depress clutch pedal, start engine. If engine starts, clutch is fixed. If starter just stalls, then clutch is still stuck.

fun way to unstick: hook strap between rear tow point and big tree. Put trans and transfer in 4low, 1st or 2nd gear. depress clutch pedal, start engine. when truck idles to end of rope w/ clutch depressed, it will either stall engine, or break clutch loose.

 

[diggity]

Alright - I pulled the cover (gasket is shot, but from searching is apparently not needed). I could see that the disk pad appears to be split in half and when the clutch was actuated 1/2 stayed against the pressure plate. I used a small screwdriver to pull it off of the pressure plate and had my wife bump the key a few times and did it in several places....all is working now.

Still hear the release bearing and it sounds like maybe the disc is spinning some the first few times I engaged the clutch. But it moves the truck now

I will be placing my order tomorrow for the parts I indicated above. I do see oil (appears to be gear oil) in and around the flywheel cover so I guess something aside from the rear main seal needs to be replaced as well, I guess the input shaft seal on the tranny.

Thanks Kbill45,bsmith123 and dgangle for the quick responses, it is appreciated.

Jim - your suggestions were next on my list... but I was in the garage, so I was going to drag it out and have a buddy with an 80 hook me up with a strap and have a go at it.

Thanks again all.

Brad

 

[bsmith123]

oil

if you haven't had the oil pan off before and you are going in there to do the rear main might as well get an oil pan gasket as well.

on the aft end of the pan there are a couple of little corner gap fillers (I guess you would call them) if you change the gasket put some sealant around there--if you have a FSM, it tells you to do that

if your rear main is not leaking then maybe the rear of the oil pan is hence the oil

Make sure you get the rear main seal and the clutch installed the right way round--You can see that in my post if you are not familiar with it--also Poser has a post on doing the rear main with the torque values listed ---look under his transmission change

 

[FJ40Jim]

Asco clutch deal

Here's a supplier who sells the OEM clutch for an excellent price:
Ebay Linky

 

[diggity]

Thanks for the info all, it is greatly appreciated.

Jim - I saw that link on ebay and was going to pull the trigger until I saw this.

Auto Parts at Auto Parts Way - Car Parts, Import Parts, Truck Parts, Auto Accessories

Search for your year 40 and select the same parts (Aisin/ASCO, Koyo, etc) and your total should be 166.00 including free ground shipping. So I saved a few bucks

Now I will order the clutch alignment tool from partsamerica.com for 6$ and still be several bucks ahead.

Thanks all.

Brad

 

[FJ40Jim]

I missed the free shipping.

That's a Good deal!

 

[diggity]

Any pointers for input shaft seal? Having a hard time finding that one...I realize the dealer probably has it and I may have to go that route, but was looking for more deals

 

[Martian]

I installed a clutch kit from Marlin Crawler. It's made with OEM parts, but has a slightly higher pressure and cost about the same as the generic crap you can get at the local parts store.

x2 on pulling the bell housing and replacing the cam plug and oil gallery plug while you're in there, but I'd only recommend replacing them if you see they are leaking or rusting once you have the bell housing off. It's a real pain to get the old ones out! Also, make sure your engine is well supported before removing the bell housing, and don't leave it supported by a hydraulic jack for long periods of time. Jacks notoriously bleed and could leave you with damaged motor mounts.