Builds Project Bob (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mace
- Start date
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- Joined
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- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
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- www.cascadecruisers.com
Traded a buddy a Driveshaft for it. I think I got the better deal
according to you or your wife?
Looks like a rat got loose in there
No all kidding aside your work is starting to pay off
No all kidding aside your work is starting to pay off
You should have cleaned & detailed the engine bay BEFORE you installed everything! it looks way dirtier in the pics than in person. Maybe you should not use the flash when you take pics.
Is sure looks good though & everything went together so well. That thing is going to be sweet when your done. I sure am envious at how slick your swap has turned out. It makes my engine bay look lame!
Is sure looks good though & everything went together so well. That thing is going to be sweet when your done. I sure am envious at how slick your swap has turned out. It makes my engine bay look lame!
- Thread starter
- #726
Thanks, I am seriously considering just taking Bob to Earl Scheib to get the paint done.You should have cleaned & detailed the engine bay BEFORE you installed everything! it looks way dirtier in the pics than in person. Maybe you should not use the flash when you take pics.
Is sure looks good though & everything went together so well. That thing is going to be sweet when your done. I sure am envious at how slick your swap has turned out. It makes my engine bay look lame!
Even use their paint. Hell, the $259 coupon is hard to beat...
My truck had an Maaco $500 (super urethane or something like that) job on it when I bought it & the only area it was lacking was masking & prep. @ 10' away you couldn't tell. It lasted 4 years with no complaints & would have been fine but I had to fix some body damage and rust spots.
If your not planning on getting the body very straight than earl shieb is the way to go. the $259 is with crappy acrylic paint I think. I'd still buy the paint (single stage metallic 2k urethane) and primer & have them spray it. Then do all the sanding, body work and masking yourself. You will have a good paint job for about $500.
Maaco paint pic attached:
If your not planning on getting the body very straight than earl shieb is the way to go. the $259 is with crappy acrylic paint I think. I'd still buy the paint (single stage metallic 2k urethane) and primer & have them spray it. Then do all the sanding, body work and masking yourself. You will have a good paint job for about $500.
Maaco paint pic attached:
- Thread starter
- #729
Nope, just found out that the flanges that I have do not work with the 60 DS at all.. though tthey did but I was wrong..
I gotta call Kurt on monday..
Also, I started it in gear with the rear DS on but not hooked up to the rear axle. The DS spun once or twice and I shut the motor down.. Now the motor won't turn over. Donno yet if it is the motor, tranny or the starter that is stuck..
I gotta call Kurt on monday..
Also, I started it in gear with the rear DS on but not hooked up to the rear axle. The DS spun once or twice and I shut the motor down.. Now the motor won't turn over. Donno yet if it is the motor, tranny or the starter that is stuck..
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Nope, just found out that the flanges that I have do not work with the 60 DS at all.. though tthey did but I was wrong..
I gotta call Kurt on monday..
Also, I started it in gear with the rear DS on but not hooked up to the rear axle. The DS spun once or twice and I shut the motor down.. Now the motor won't turn over. Donno yet if it is the motor, tranny or the starter that is stuck..
Good news? something simple? I hope....
any word?
Doing a killer job.
I am getting close to the end as well. Gotta re-spray the roof too..
I guess were still neck and neck as who can build the truck the slowest
Doing a killer job.
I am getting close to the end as well. Gotta re-spray the roof too..
I guess were still neck and neck as who can build the truck the slowest
- Thread starter
- #734
I am certainly slower
I was able to spin the rear DS by hand (tranny in neutral) And spin the motor using the bolts on the torque converter..
The starter works when disconnected but not when connected.. I have 12.75 volts from the battery to the solenoid and when I use the key I have 12 volts across the solenoid. Donno if I am getting the full 12 volts to the starter but it sure seems like the starter is not giving it the gusto like it should.
I think the brand new starter is bad.. What do you suppose NAPA's warranty is like without a receipt???
:shaking:
I was able to spin the rear DS by hand (tranny in neutral) And spin the motor using the bolts on the torque converter..
The starter works when disconnected but not when connected.. I have 12.75 volts from the battery to the solenoid and when I use the key I have 12 volts across the solenoid. Donno if I am getting the full 12 volts to the starter but it sure seems like the starter is not giving it the gusto like it should.
I think the brand new starter is bad.. What do you suppose NAPA's warranty is like without a receipt???
:shaking:
They have one on file ....just go where you bought itI am certainly slower
I was able to spin the rear DS by hand (tranny in neutral) And spin the motor using the bolts on the torque converter..
The starter works when disconnected but not when connected.. I have 12.75 volts from the battery to the solenoid and when I use the key I have 12 volts across the solenoid. Donno if I am getting the full 12 volts to the starter but it sure seems like the starter is not giving it the gusto like it should.
I think the brand new starter is bad.. What do you suppose NAPA's warranty is like without a receipt???
:shaking:
or raise 8 different kinds of hell...just catch them at rush hour
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Simple it was