- Thread starter
- #21
I found a definite boost leak. Looks like I blew a cap off of the second air connection on the intercooler piping elbow.
Did I blow up my turbo? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Lumpskie
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Yeah it's contacting for sure. Sorry about that.
- Thread starter
- #24
I'm going to call Gturbo tomorrow and see about getting a new turbo... maybe a badboy this time. While I'm at it, I might see about a PDI or Moonlight fab airbox.
How hard is it to replace a turbo on these things?
How hard is it to replace a turbo on these things?
Changing the turbo It's not particularly technical, but access to some of the bolts is horrid. There's generally not a lot of room to work
A competent shade tree mechanic would be looking at 5-6hrs shed time
- Thread starter
- #26
P
I read somewhere that an engine hoist is advised. Is that true? Is the turbo heavy making the hoist necessary to stabilze while installing?
I read somewhere that an engine hoist is advised. Is that true? Is the turbo heavy making the hoist necessary to stabilze while installing?
I think the easiest approach is to remove exhaust manifold and turbo together.
Separate them on the bench.
To get at all the manifold studs, you need to move some stuff out of the way.
Like the AC compressor. Unbolt it, leave it connected, but loose so you can move it out of the way a bit.
Air filter box is best taken out.
Best to plan it, figure out what gaskets you will need, spare exhaust studs and water hose, vacuum hose etc
@IanB may be able to give you more pointers. I think he's had turbos on and off like a brides nightie
Separate them on the bench.
To get at all the manifold studs, you need to move some stuff out of the way.
Like the AC compressor. Unbolt it, leave it connected, but loose so you can move it out of the way a bit.
Air filter box is best taken out.
Best to plan it, figure out what gaskets you will need, spare exhaust studs and water hose, vacuum hose etc
@IanB may be able to give you more pointers. I think he's had turbos on and off like a brides nightie
To R&R the turbo:
-remove S-pipe from airbox to turbo
-remove airbox
-remove crossover pipe (not sure how your IC impacts this step)
-remove manifold heat shield
Under the truck:
-remove skidplates
-remove front driveshaft (requires pushing truck ahead/back to get at all the bolts)
-remove downpipe and center section of exhaust (works best on my truck, aftermarket exhaust, you may not need to do this)
-remove oil drain tube from turbo to oilpan
-remove turbo oil hardline from turbo to block
-remove turbo brace bracket
-disconnect coolant hoses to/from turbo, find some fat bolts to plug the hoses and use the hose clamps to limit how much coolant you lose
-loosen manifold nuts, most of my studs came out with the nuts, think about using new studs and nuts when reinstalling
-manifold and turbo come out as a unit, an extra set of hands is great here as it's a heavy and awkward assembly to wrestle out of the engine bay, I've never needed to loosen the AC compressor but it might help now that I think of it, especially if you were working alone
Assembly is reverse order, also the service manual is a great resource for this job. You will need to transfer several fittings and block-off plates from the old turbo to the new, use new gaskets included with the new Gturbo. I find this is about a 6-7 hour job. It's not particularly hard, but a lot of the work is laying on your back under the truck. I'd recommend taking the time to rebuild the slip joint in the manifold (2 o-rings, 2 metal rings) while you're in there, as it would suck to put it all back and realize it's leaking at the joint. I'd also use new exhaust manifold gaskets, manifold to head studs and nuts (already mentioned), the new Gturbo should come with new turbo and downpipe studs already. If you have any questions just ask.
If you've got time, it's also a great time to add a turbo heat blanket like @NLXTACY is selling via Wit's End, I wasn't able to get one in my hands last time I did this job and it's not worth pulling it all apart again to add one.
-remove S-pipe from airbox to turbo
-remove airbox
-remove crossover pipe (not sure how your IC impacts this step)
-remove manifold heat shield
Under the truck:
-remove skidplates
-remove front driveshaft (requires pushing truck ahead/back to get at all the bolts)
-remove downpipe and center section of exhaust (works best on my truck, aftermarket exhaust, you may not need to do this)
-remove oil drain tube from turbo to oilpan
-remove turbo oil hardline from turbo to block
-remove turbo brace bracket
-disconnect coolant hoses to/from turbo, find some fat bolts to plug the hoses and use the hose clamps to limit how much coolant you lose
-loosen manifold nuts, most of my studs came out with the nuts, think about using new studs and nuts when reinstalling
-manifold and turbo come out as a unit, an extra set of hands is great here as it's a heavy and awkward assembly to wrestle out of the engine bay, I've never needed to loosen the AC compressor but it might help now that I think of it, especially if you were working alone
Assembly is reverse order, also the service manual is a great resource for this job. You will need to transfer several fittings and block-off plates from the old turbo to the new, use new gaskets included with the new Gturbo. I find this is about a 6-7 hour job. It's not particularly hard, but a lot of the work is laying on your back under the truck. I'd recommend taking the time to rebuild the slip joint in the manifold (2 o-rings, 2 metal rings) while you're in there, as it would suck to put it all back and realize it's leaking at the joint. I'd also use new exhaust manifold gaskets, manifold to head studs and nuts (already mentioned), the new Gturbo should come with new turbo and downpipe studs already. If you have any questions just ask.
If you've got time, it's also a great time to add a turbo heat blanket like @NLXTACY is selling via Wit's End, I wasn't able to get one in my hands last time I did this job and it's not worth pulling it all apart again to add one.
I tried to use an engine hoist the first time I did this job, you'd need to remove the hood to get enough room to make it helpful, an extra set of hands to hoist the turbo/manifold assembly out and back in is much faster.
Gturbo has a new generation of turbos now that will definitely outperform the old. You can be the first on this side of the ocean to have one.
- Thread starter
- #32
Calling Gturbo right when they open tonight my time but Monday morning in Australia. After doing more reading, I think I might copy @IanB and get a Grunter Extreme. Seems like the low rpm spool plus being able to handle 28psi is the right mix. Going to see if I can snag a PDI airbox from them too. Will keep you guys posted!
I did use an engine hoist without removing the hood when I removed the manifold/turbo last. I was by myself though. I do agree simply having an extra set of hands to lift it out is easier and fast though, but it is possible if you have no friends
- Thread starter
- #34
To keep this thread updated, I ordered:
1. Grunter Extreme (comes with turbo gasket set)
2. PDI Airbox
3. New manifold gasket
4. New studs/nuts
Hoping to get everything on Friday. I'm hoping a buddy of mine can help me with the swap and get it complete by the end of the weekend. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions here as that develops.
1. Grunter Extreme (comes with turbo gasket set)
2. PDI Airbox
3. New manifold gasket
4. New studs/nuts
Hoping to get everything on Friday. I'm hoping a buddy of mine can help me with the swap and get it complete by the end of the weekend. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions here as that develops.
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I swapped in a GTurbo on my 13BT a year ago. Hardest thing, as stated above, was accessing nuts and bolts.
I blasted and high-temp painted the turbo outlet and ex manifold.
I blasted and high-temp painted the turbo outlet and ex manifold.
Just reviving the thread, how did the turbo install go? What about the turbo? Was it the grunter green wheel??
How do you find having the low down spool?
Possibly looking at the green wheel but tossing up the red wheel.
- Thread starter
- #37
It's a good idea I follow up over here, so thanks for reminding me. Yes sir, I ended up going with a Gturbo GTX (green wheel) along with a PDI highflow airbox. I really like this setup. When at full boost at higher RPMs, the system doesn't feel strained anymore. I tow a 22 foot boat, so having the low down spool is also really handy for me. When accelerating from a stop, the green spools almost immediately and really flows from 1500-3000 RPM. From 3000-4000, it still flows but it does feel as though it is passed it's "sweet spot" based upon the torque of the rig. If you wanted to do 0-60 runs, full throttle sand stuff or fast driving of any sort, I would consider the red wheel. If you do rock crawling, tow anything heavy, or like the boost when you are traveling at 65mph up any hill (without any downshifting, keeping EGTs in a safe range), I really like my green wheel for that. I'm really happy with the turbo and don't have any regrets.
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
How do you like that airbox? Considering their one for my hdj79 as well. I'm loving my grunter extreme, find exactly what you are in terms of how it behaves. Have you run it on a dyno yet?It's a good idea I follow up over here, so thanks for reminding me. Yes sir, I ended up going with a Gturbo GTX (green wheel) along with a PDI highflow airbox. I really like this setup. When at full boost at higher RPMs, the system doesn't feel strained anymore. I tow a 22 foot boat, so having the low down spool is also really handy for me. When accelerating from a stop, the green spools almost immediately and really flows from 1500-3000 RPM. From 3000-4000, it still flows but it does feel as though it is passed it's "sweet spot" based upon the torque of the rig. If you wanted to do 0-60 runs, full throttle sand stuff or fast driving of any sort, I would consider the red wheel. If you do rock crawling, tow anything heavy, or like the boost when you are traveling at 65mph up any hill (without any downshifting, keeping EGTs in a safe range), I really like my green wheel for that. I'm really happy with the turbo and don't have any regrets.
- Thread starter
- #39
I love this airbox. It uses a 200 series air filter, which has 20% more surface area that a duramax filter. Even at 23psi, it feels like the airbox isn't anywhere near it's max throughput. I'm convinced it could handle a red wheel at 30psi without sweating. I haven't put it on a dyno... honestly, I just tuned to EGT. It would be good to put a wideband and tune to AFR. Here in the U.S. , I'm not sure where I would go to have anyone tune my rig though.
