High Nickel 3B heads

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BreckenridgeCruiser

BreckenridgeCruiser

I break things.
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I am about to start the disassembly of the 3B I have for rebuild. I was wondering if anyone has information the High Nickel heads for the 3B I have seen mentioned on here.

What is the major advantage of the high nickel content? Should I replace even if my head is okay?

For background, it will be an expo rig with a gt2052 turbo, h55, and 33s (and maybe 35's). I have both 3.73 and 4.11s but am leaning toward the 3.73 with the type of driving I do, as well as the low 1st of the h55 (and the h41 I have in there now).

I am not sure I need the new head yet, but I always feel better planning ahead!
 
I don't know about this 3B head but High nickel is more for rust resist normaly. If you don't do offraod, 3.73 will help keep your rpm low.. but i'm not sure if the 3B is enough powerfull to run 35'' with 3.73 of gear. My B engine with turbo(maybe 100hp/150lb torque) run my 33'' with 4.11 and slow down when I run against wind at 100km/h

You need to know the max torque/hp and run the 3B at 100km/h in this range.. certainly between 1700-2100rpm max you will have your max torque
 
I changed my 4.11's to 3.70's and will be going back to 4.11's and I have H55F, GT2052 turbo'ed 3B and running 235/85-16's but going to 33 x 12.5 x 17 real soon

R
 
So does it help resist cracking then? Good to know on the ratios...

I was going to swap the 3.73s in now and drive them for a while to get a feel for them... I have a 2B with h41, 33x10 and gt2052 turbo now...

I forgot to mention that I was going to upgrade my rad and add an intercooler to help me run a bit more power (or just keep temps under control) by adding fuel. The 35's are not very likely as it might not give me any benefits for the downsides (fuel, steering, height etc).
 
Assuming the "high nickel" heads really are high nickel then yes, it is a good thing all around.

High-nickel cast irons are widely used and are generally known as Ni-Resist cast irons. Austenitic gray cast irons containing 14% to 30% nickel are resistant to mildly oxidizing acids, including sulphuric acid at room-temperature. High-nickel cast iron is most resistant to alkalis than unalloyed cast irons. Ni-Resist is particularly useful for high temperatures. High-nickel cast irons, because of their austenitic matrix, are the toughest of all cast irons with flake graphite. They have excellent machinability and good foundry properties, although their tensile strengths are relatively low due to the flake graphite. High-nickel ductile irons have higher strength and ductility because they have nodular graphite.

Austenitic cast irons containing 18% or more nickel up to 7% copper, and 1.75%-4% carbon are used for applications where both heat and corrosion resistance are required. The Ni-Resist cast irons have good resistance to high-temperature scaling and growth up to 815°C for most oxidizing atmospheres. In sulphur-containing atmospheres, however, the nickel content of these alloys limits their use to temperatures below 500°C.

The austenitic nickel cast irons have considerably greater toughness and shock-resistance than other heatresistant silicon and chromium alloy irons. The high-nickel cast irons with nodular graphite microstructure are considerably stronger and have higher ductility than the flaked-graphite nickel alloy irons.
Click to expand...

Emphasis mine.

http://www.acmealloys.com/High Alloy Cast Irons.PDF
 
BR Cruiser
Your 3B that your rebuilding , is this a 1981 engine ?

"1981 JDM BJ44 RHD - Going under the knife soon!"

I just opened up two 3B's i had here for the same work, plus it's much nicer to have a engine on stand to fabricate the lines , fixtures / turbo / Crankcase ventilation system.

What is your clock reading in kms ?
I was surprised by the wear and understand why I had to totally different running engines.
Next week , My wife will take a few pictures of the engines.
(i put a spot of black on her camera ,Now off limits to me)

VT
 
I have a 3B from a BJ60 or 70 I bought from 4WheelAuto along with the rebuild kit. I haven't even unpacked it yet and it is sitting in my friends shop.

I have a 2B with 130K kms on the clock. I have no idea about the mileage on the 3B but I trust the 4WA to know a good candidate for rebuild.

I will be able to build the engine completely before I remove mine form the 44...

Kraig
 
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Ahh, On mine , 2 engines , drove both , one with lower than the other oil pressure but better power. Both in the 200,260 km range on the clock , What I found was bearing wear of very minimal on both , a goofy diaphram repair on one that had the poor power , and on the other , the piston oil cooling valve had failed , causing the engine to appear as low oil pressure.

I did a re bearing of all, but really the wear i measured of the parts i replaced was not worth the coin.
I did this all myself.


All Im saying is I learn't well , but the work was not really required yet.
I will be adding a turbo also , but was just trying to be cautious .

VT

Still driving a NA rot box
 
Roberto said:
I changed my 4.11's to 3.70's and will be going back to 4.11's and I have H55F, GT2052 turbo'ed 3B and running 235/85-16's but going to 33 x 12.5 x 17 real soon

R
Click to expand...

What is the tach reading at 65-70 mph with your 4.11's? I have a NA 3B with an H55F and am going to slap a set of 33x10.50s on it. Right now, I am finding that the motor is nice and happy but wouldnt mind a little more throttle response. How did the fuel mileage change when you went from 3.70 to 4.11?
 
no highjack here

Derelict,

@ 65-70 MPH I am at 2500 RPM with 3.70's with 235/85-16 tires and turbo'ed
 
I believe there was a shop in OZ that was making the high nickel heads. 3B heads arent bad, but there have been problems with cracking between the valve seats, as well as dropping the pre-cups due to heat and cracking.

The aftermarket ones would be better though, and if your really feeling inspired try a port and polish to keep the EGT's down and flow a little better.
 
I was planning on at least polishing a bit. I wasn't sure if porting would affect the turbo spool (exhaust) or PSI (intake). With the intercooler and 4core, I should see a bit more control over the heat. I also plan on installing a better temp gauge to let me know exactly where i am with temp.

@VT. As far as 4WA told me the 3B I have is running fine, But since I have it out, it just made sense to baseline it with a rebuild. Putting it in and then having some small issue that meant taking it back out would just piss me off. I am also going to experiment with mounting the turbo in the lower position (flipped 13BT manifold) to move the dump pipe down away from my (RHD) clutch, brake and such, plus to allow for a more direct run from the turbo to the intercooler... I am also looking at mounting a Donaldson to move the Aircleaner out of the engine bay to make for more room for fun things like a 3rd battery.

That's the dream list and as you can see I have a few plans so anything I can do to make sure that once I install the engine, I don't have to do more than regular maintenance is a good thing... including a crack resistant head!
 
The heads you buy over the counter at Toyota have higher nickel now than the original. I can't remember when they changed. Allhead in Australia had a good aftermarket high nickle lead but I don't know if they bother anymore.

If you are putting a new head on I wonder if it is worth cryo-treating it beforehand. Wouldn't cost much and couldn't hurt. All original 3Bs heads have cracks between the valves.
 
amaurer said:
What is the piston oil cooling valve??
Click to expand...

On the 3B's here before 1984 PD Daihatsu cast, the 3 brg journal cam design have a one way check / pressure limiter valve behind the in-line fuel pump , just above the oil piston squirter galley way. 22mm head with a copper crush gasket. This is used to stop the squirters from spraying till 2 bar is reached. one of mine had no resistance ,removal is much nicer out of the frame.


I was planning on at least polishing a bit. I wasn't sure if porting would affect the turbo spool (exhaust) or PSI (intake). With the intercooler and 4core, I should see a bit more control over the heat. I also plan on installing a better temp gauge to let me know exactly where i am with temp.
Click to expand...
On my engines I removed the pan and did a wet clearance check with plastic gauge / dial indicator (bump test , and end play), I found so little wear , all was in spec, even the compression test from before the removal..
So I installed the parts i bought , but really didn't do anything .

I might of tightened up the crank by a few thousands /.mm, and the ring end gaps , But truly spent $ and now I'LL need to seat / wear in the rings , it was just fine before.

I did the huge rad ,and a cooling system upgrade , one of the three killers of engines (temp,dirt,my foot), also a crankcase venting system for the dirt and acids.

I had cracks between the seats (normal on many engines) Cups looked fine (checked by magnaflux ) tight and protrude still.

I'm going to run the pump up on a bench and adjust it only , can't see anything other than the diaphram that was wonky. But I did get to drive both of these and do some testing (not a safe idea, now after the heart in throat from rust buckets lack of stopping , Glad no state troupers were about)


HTH's VT

Lost Marbles posted these a while back Heads

400-450 bucks for them.
 
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Nice. LostMarbles is a great resouce...

Anyone know how much toyota asks for their newer nickel alloy heads that someone mentioned above?
 
My usual sources say the OEM heads are no longer available.

11101-59095 till 81.

11101-59096 till 84.

11101-58013 up till 89.

11101-58050 goes until 94.

None of them seem to be available.
 
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