Builds FZJ80 6.5TD diesel swap build thread

[6840]

I started this conversion a year ago, and have been taking notes and tracking data for this build thread. The project started with a'93 FZJ80. 260k on the clock, bad tranny, factory lockers, and "only" $500. I already had a 1996 Goodwrench 6.5 TD motor from a trashed Suburban. This engine is unique, in that it features early style mechanical injection, and an ATS aftermarket turbo setup.

The goal of this project was to create a manual tranny, diesel FZJ80. So, I sourced an NV4500 and associated parts to attach to the 6.5 engine. Since there are no adapters for the NV4500 to the FZJ80 transfer case, I decided to use a split transfer case from an FJ60. The 60 was also the donor for the clutch pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder.

First about my engine selection. The GM 6.5TD is readily available and reasonably priced. They make pretty good power and torque, and are basically interchangeable with the GM small block, so motor mounts, etc are easily obtained. I chose this particular engine for the mechanical injection system. The later GM diesels with electronic injection control were prone to computer problems (not that they can't be solved, but I wanted simplicity). With the mechanical injection, you only need to connect one wire to start the motor, one to make it run, and one to energize the glow plugs. Plus, it's an ideal candidate for a veggie conversion, which may happen in the future.

The NV4500 offers an ample range of ratios for this engine in front of the 4.11 factory gears. In overdrive, the engine will top out at around 95mph (which is considerably faster than I ever intend to go in an FJ80), will run highway speeds at around 2500 rpms, and will crawl in first.

More in part II...

 

[6840]

part II: Basic Mechanical Install

The 6.5 TD uses the same motor mount dimensions as the small block Chevy motor. So I installed an Advance Adapters mount kit. The frame brackets mounted 20" back from the front crossmember and 1.5" below the top of the frame rails. This gave about 1/2" clearance between the firewall and the back of the engine heads. I did dimple in the firewall with a ballpeen hammer to allow more room and some air circulation, but the modification was moderate and did not affect the AC evaporator or anything else inside the vehicle. This engine position also results in good clearance between the radiator and fan (1.5" to the face of the fan clutch, and 2.5" to the blades). It will require a custom fan shroud, which is on the "to do" list.

On the engine side, the AA adapters are a bolt-on. However, my aftermarket ATS turbo manifold interfered with the passenger side mount, and I ended up having to torch away a good portion of the web. This required reinforcement, which I welded to either side of the mount. I have no idea if this would be an issue with factory GM manifolds or with Banks or other aftermarket manifolds.

For the transmission crossmember, I modified the factory FJ80 part. A word of caution, the AA adapter for NV4500 to FJ60 has a non-standard mounting hole pattern. The two threaded holes don't fit any specific transmission mount - you have to "make your own" according to AA. I know this because I spent an afternoon searching my local auto parts store, before finally calling AA. Even THEY don't sell a *%#$ mount to fit the hole pattern!

In the end, I torched, drilled, and welded on the factory mount, and used a set of urethane shock bushings to create my own mount. It's not even worth trying to describe how to make it - it was more like carving than machining...

Shifter and Clutch in Part III...

 

[rtarh2o]

Sounds like you have a good start, great project!
I am actually considering another one, found a good price on an 80 that needs an engine and it is making me want to do it.
Keep us posted on the build, that is a great engine for the 80.
The thing you need to think about is the gearing again, I went with the 700R4 because it actually had better final drive than the NV4500 if I remember correctly, plus I didn't want to go to the trouble of converting to 5 speed, would be nice though. If the 6.5 is anything like my 6.2 it needs to cruise at under 2,000 rpm, 1,800 is about perfect.
Good luck!
Rusty

 

[6840]

Part III: Clutch and Shifters

Transmission:
With the engine located as in part II, the transmission shift tower just clears the bottom of the dash. I ended up removing the bottom-most air duct, which diverts the heat between the passenger and drivers side. This part is held on with a couple of screws, and it looked like the air could still find it's way to my feet without it. After removal, there is plenty of clearance for the shift tower and shifter. However, the shift lever must be bent into an "S" configuration to clear the dash and end up in the correct area for your right hand. I will be using the factory FJ60 shift bushing to seal the opening.

Transfer Case:
A bit more difficult, I ended up cutting off the right hand side of the tunnel, and about 4" into the passenger floorboard to get clearance for the transfer case shifter. A slight bend to the shift lever puts it about where the FJ60 or FJ40 lever resides - close enough to reach. CAUTION: the forward cut on the floorboard is right next to the rear heater lines - BE CAREFUL when you cut!!

Clutch:
For the clutch pedal, I just couldn't bring myself to pay the exorbitant price for a Spectre pedal cluster. So, I pulled the pedal cluster assembly from my donor FJ60. The portion for the brake pedal is not needed, and must be cut away. Again, this was more like sculpture rather than machining - I kept going back to the bandsaw and taking a little more and a little more until the clutch pedal pivot assembly fit under the 80 dash. The end result, and an approximation of what was removed is pictured. In the final configuration, the clutch master cylinder lines up with the embossed area on the FJ80, the MC bolts hold that end in place, and the other end is tack welded to the dashboard crossmember.

The clutch pedal arm needed a little more "s" curve than factory, and I ended up shortening the arm by about 3/4" to match the position of the FJ80 brake pedal. I actually used the FJ60 brake pedal for this because the arm is a bit thicker, but it was probably overkill since the pedal effort is so light with the AA clutch disc etc.

For the brake pedal, I kept the FJ80 assembly, and merely cut off both sides of the pedal face to match the dimensions of the FJ60 pedal (the FJ60 rubber pedal pad slipped right on).

In Part III Hydraulics...

 

[rtarh2o]

Nice job, just noticed the rest of your pictures.
One more thing you might consider is going to a serpentine belt set-up, I was constantly tightening belts on my 6.2, rarely was there not a squeak.
Rusty

 

[Tapage]

cool project .. down here the clutch assembly can be sourced ..

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[PAToyota]

Definitely following this. I have a '93 6.5TD (mech)/NV4500 sitting in my shop waiting for a swap.

 

[6840]

Part III continued - more on clutch and shifters

Here are some interior shots of the pedals and shifter positions. Note the large hole is the pass side of the tunnel, this is to clear the transfer case and shifter assembly. My plan is to take a chunk of an 80 tunnel and graft it onto the opening - effectively expanding the size of the tunnel by about 4" to the passenger side.

The transmission shifter needs a fairly pronounced "s" shape to clear the dashboard, but as it's shown, there is at least 1" clearance in all gears. I am going to end up using a solid steel shifter instead of this one, which has the rubber bushing between the lower half and upper half... something about heating it with a torch to bend it played hell with the rubber...

 

[becker]

In reference to the earlier comment about utilizing a 700R4...why isn't anyone simply keeping the stock A440/2F transmission? Mark's Adapters sells the adapter. Is it really that weak and the gearing is comparable to the 700R4/4L60E.

 

[Tapage]

shifting points of the gasser A442 Are set for a gasser rpm useful range .. a bit diferent range in a TD appilcation ..

 

[Dougal]

shifting points of the gasser A442 Are set for a gasser rpm useful range .. a bit diferent range in a TD appilcation ..

Can a good auto shop change that or is it cheaper to simply find a diesel A442?

 

[6840]

"cheaper" is an unusual word to use when we're talking about drivetrain swaps!

Seriously, I would imagine that a diesel spec A442 would be an expensive proposition in the US. The "cheapest" way to go is almost certainly to put a good diesel spec 700R4 behind the motor and use an AA adapter to get back to the FJ80 transfer case.

Although, the NV4500 option has not been terribly expensive for me. I had a donor FJ60, so the xfer case and clutch pedal assy were "free", and the tranny was only about $1k. AA adapter and misc stuff puts me in the $2k range for the drivetrain portion (not including exhaust, cooling, AC, etc etc etc)

 

[Tapage]

Can a good auto shop change that or is it cheaper to simply find a diesel A442?

Honestly I have no clues about that .. I'm pretty sure Rodney in Australia can do .. but don't know any specialicied tranny shop in USA that advice a complete Land Cruiser auto trans knowledge ..

What I'm also sure it's will be far more easy and fast if I deliver a complete and running 80 series turbo diesel manual or auto ( your preference ) to you

 

[Bennett]

Cool swap

 

[Greg_B]

Can a good auto shop change that or is it cheaper to simply find a diesel A442?

A good shop should be able to change that, but time is money for R&D. Or an off the shelf application would be getting an Extreme VB and Extreme TC.

gb

 

[McDowra]

Subscribed, how bout a update

 

[Ted44]

6840 works HARD for his money and has "many irons in the fire."

 

[Fantom]

very ambitious build, I hope it works out the way you want in. Very interested in the end result.
After all the custom work and costs involved, you didn't want to go with a factory Toyota 1HDT engine? the install would have been much easier and the initial cost of it would have likely been the same after all the modifications and add ons for this build. Just curious.

 

[torfab]

what did you do about the exhaust manifolds? I installed a 6.2 in a FJ60, and the frame wasn't an issue. The 6.5 turbo manifolds are too wide to fit in the 80 series frame, so I am at a loss...