Roof rack removal observations.

[Hayes]

Took of my factory rack today.

After reading several threads on the subject, I was prepared for the likely rust and embarassingly tiny little nutserts.

Found some significant rust under the PS rear base. I can't believe that anyone would think it was a good idea to put a hard plastic base on painted sheet metal.

Nutserts:

There is no way I'm goint to remove my headliner.
After reading that some have had success just pulling the little suckers out, I tried to yank one out with pliers and leverage applied to a partially threaded screw.

Didn't work.
Just pulled up and deformed the sheet metal around the hole.

Tried to squish the nutsert to get it out.
The head just broke off and the rest of the nutsert just fell into the headliner.
Doh.
No big deal at all.
Popped out the funny little ceiling speaker, reached up, and grabed the nutsert with my hand. I just pushed the other nutsert in intentionally and removed it the same way.

Haven't dealt with the front ones yet.

Hayes

 

[ed97fzj80]

I'l be doing the same thing when the rains stop. Concretejungle's aluminum tape and some white Durabak are looking pretty attractive to me right about now. How do you plan to button it up?

 

[e9999]

be careful with the front ones!
I did explain in some length how I did mine IIRC in some earlier thread, but the issue is that you don't want them to fall and get stuck somewhere in the sunroof rails or to get wedged against the glass or any other potential nightmare...

 

[NorCalSam]

Me three......not sure about this . going to shoot from the hip on this one I think

 

[rolliges]

I pulled mine out with the bolt threaded/stuck in (had to cut the base off around the bolt)! I used a lot of force and did deform the roof metal a bit. Not enough to care too much (other people would though). Aluminum tape has held up well with periodic checks. A rectangle of SlipCheck boat decking stuff is going over the locations rack feet.

 

[Hayes]

I'm plugging the holes with plastic "hole plugs" from Home Depot, and sealing with silicone.

This is what e9999 did, and it sounds like his plugs are holding up well. I think it will work nicely for me, because the white plugs match my white 80 pretty well. I won't worry about painting them (although I DO need to touch up some bare metal that I exposed after cleaning up rust and deformed holes).
Anyone have any recommendation on touching up factory paint?

I will also try some version of e9999's method for extracting the front nutserts through the sunroof opening (aluminum foil...the thread is out there).

Hayes

P.S. Got my J-Moose style rack built. Will paint over the next few days. It turned out very nice, better than expected. Write-up to follow.

Hayes

 

[ed97fzj80]

White touch-up paint is a few bucks at the dealer, and it matches well enough for a roof. Is Dan sending you anything soon?

 

[Hayes]

White touch-up paint is a few bucks at the dealer, and it matches well enough for a roof. Is Dan sending you anything soon?

I have several things I would like to order from Dan.
Battery trays, spark plugs, steering column cowls... the list is far larger than my wallet.

I'll probably skip down to the local dealer today. I also need a new key...

Hayes

 

[firetruck41]

I'm plugging the holes with plastic "hole plugs" from Home Depot, and sealing with silicone.

Regular silicone sealer will cause rust, make sure you use an automotive sealer.

 

[Hayes]

Regular silicone sealer will cause rust, make sure you use an automotive sealer.

I was under the impression that the silicone sealers that contained "other" caulking compounds were the ones to avoid.

I'm useing a pure silicone sealant designed for exterior aluminum siding and other household metals.
I can't concieve of how it could cause rust.

Any more info on this?

Hayes

 

[firetruck41]

I was under the impression that the silicone sealers that contained "other" caulking compounds were the ones to avoid.

I'm useing a pure silicone sealant designed for exterior aluminum siding and other household metals.
I can't concieve of how it could cause rust.

Any more info on this?

Hayes

I think you might be right there. I would think if it is designed for metals it will be fine. From what I remember there is something that helps in the curing process in some caulk/sealer that causes/accelerates rust.

 

[ed97fzj80]

It's been a while since I was an aquarium freak, but ISTR that silicone sealers gas out acetic acid when they cure. That's vinegar, basically, and on a painted surface it shouldn't be a problem. Now if the underside of the roof is not painted, that could be something.

 

[RWD]

To those of you that have removed the rack, can you tell if there is any less wind noise? On windy days cruising along at 65 there seems to be a lot of wind noise with the rack. I'm wondering if it's from the rack.

 

[laserbill]

Has anyone tried drilling off the head of the rusted screws , removing the rack and then applying a combination of penatrating oil and heat to remove the stub? I have two front screws that are stuck (one on each side, second ones back) and do not want to spin or remove the nutserts if at all possible.

 

[sdbrassfield]

The rack, is noisy as h**l. There is a significant difference without the rack...

 

[rolliges]

Has anyone tried drilling off the head of the rusted screws , removing the rack and then applying a combination of penatrating oil and heat to remove the stub? I have two front screws that are stuck (one on each side, second ones back) and do not want to spin or remove the nutserts if at all possible.

Tried it; bit the bullet.

 

[rolliges]

To those of you that have removed the rack, can you tell if there is any less wind noise? On windy days cruising along at 65 there seems to be a lot of wind noise with the rack. I'm wondering if it's from the rack.

I put Thules up there after removing the factory rack. It is much quieter with nothing up there.

 

[Hayes]

It's been a while since I was an aquarium freak, but ISTR that silicone sealers gas out acetic acid when they cure. That's vinegar, basically, and on a painted surface it shouldn't be a problem. Now if the underside of the roof is not painted, that could be something.

Yeah.
That's my understanding as well.
Acetic acid could certainly attack bare metal, but I question the actual amount of actual acid produced during curing. Acetic acid is also a relatively weak acid too.

Hayes

 

[Hayes]

Big rain forecasted for today.
Haven't plugged all my holes yet...
...duct tape to the rescue.
(for a couple days, at least)

Hayes

 

[jlc]

roof rack removed

heres what i did, NO LEAKS!

took off the factory rack,
got some hex screws (pic) ,
threadlocker blue on screws before inserting,
then i covered the holes with clear sealer..,
i then put small aluminum plumbers tape circles over them..(maybe tape not necessary but no leaks in headliner.. been rained on for hours.)