Replacing rear window runs / guides / channels / tracks (with pictures)

[Stylo07]

My 80's windows have exhibited the common sluggish power window operation in cold weather over the past few Midwest winters, particularly the rears. Reputed as a solution, I purchased a set of front/rear window guides, the rubber channels in which the windows move up and down, with the intent of remedying the affliction. To prepare, I researched numerous threads with various suggestions.

As with anything, there's more than one way to skin a cat. My experience involved removing the door panel to provide ease of access and an opportunity to clean, lube and inspect many areas of the door and its components. Others have seemingly had great success without removing the door panel.

The intent of this thread is to share my experience and its associated process, hoping it may help others who find themselves in the same situation.

For reference, my 80 is a 94 with 165,000 miles.

Things you'll need and/or might find helpful:
1) Phillips #2 (for small screw found in the door handle surround)
2) Phillips #3 (for all other screws)
3) Door panel removal tool (picture 1)
4) Bucket of hot, soapy water
5) Wash rag
6) Stool or chair
7) Proper lighting for the work area
8) Small flash light for hard to see areas
9) Needle nose pliers


Begin by removing the panel that contains the window up/down switch. First, remove the ash tray. It simply pulls out (pictures 2 and 3).

 

[Stylo07]

Next, remove the panel that held the ash tray and contains the up/down window switch. Begin by prying at the end of the panel which faces the front of the vehicle (picture 1). There are two metal clips that securely fasten it to the door panel. Once the clips are loosened, lift the panel and pull it towards the front of the vehicle (picture 2), as there's a tab at the rear of the panel that needs to be freed (picture 3).

 

[Stylo07]

Unplug the power window switch's electrical connection, freeing the window switch panel from the door panel.

 

[Stylo07]

Remove the armrest. As best as I could tell, mine had never been removed. As such, it was very well secured. Again, using the door panel removal tool, wedge it between the armrest and the door panel and begin prying around the perimeter. Be patient. Use more force as it begins to work loose. There are a total of 3 metal clips securing it to the door panel.

 

[Stylo07]

Remove the door handle backing plate. Like the armrest, this piece was very well attached to the panel. First, remove the screw using a #2 phillips screwdriver. Then, using the door panel removal tool or your fingers, gently pry around the perimeter of the backing plate to unseat it. Once unseated, lift the handle and slide the backing plate toward the front of the car, thus removing it completely.

 

[Stylo07]

Remove the speaker cover. It's held on by three metal clips. I used a combination of my fingers and the door panel removal tool to unseat it from the three clips.

 

[Stylo07]

Using a #3 Phillips screwdriver, remove one screw at the top of the door handle, and two residing under the armrest that was removed earlier.

 

[Stylo07]

At this point, only the plastic clips are securing the door panel to the door. The next few posts show me pointing to the location of each clip for the purpose of you knowing where to insert the door panel removal tool. Note that the tool has two ends, and one of the ends has an indentation so that it can slide around the clip, itself. Attempt to get this end of the tool around the clip and gently pry until you hear/feel a pop. This is the sound of the clip unseating from the door. DO NOT RUSH. Using this process, I didn't damage the door panel or any clips.

 

[Stylo07]

More clips...

...along the bottom

 

[Stylo07]

More clips...

...along the back of the door. Take your time making sure you place the door panel removal tool correctly. Aaaand finally, all of the clips are unseated.

 

[Stylo07]

Even though all of the clips are unseated, the door panel is still hanging onto the door. To remove it, lift up until the metal strip that runs along the top of the door is freed, and remove the rear portion of the door panel from under the rubber strip that's next to the small quarter glass.

Here's what my door looked like after removing the panel.

 

[Stylo07]

The plastic sheet you see is the vapor/moisture barrier. It's my opinion that a vapor/moisture barrier is necessary if you daily drive your 80 or value keeping it stock/factory. It keeps moisture away from the door panel and some electrical connections, and also helps prevent drafts and wind noise from entering the cabin.

I was impatient when repairing the first door and wound up destroying the vapor/moisture barrier. If you do this, no worries. I wound up buying 6mm vapor/moisture barrier from Lowe's and cut a sheet to fit the door. I then cut the necessary provisions for door handle mechanism, screw holes, speaker, wiring harness, etc. I then attached it using bathroom/sink silicon caulk. It was time consuming, but at least it was done right.

Now, having learned the above lesson, I approached the second door very differently. This go 'round, I used two new tools -- patience and me lady's hair dryer. I got the removal started by heating one small section of the glue/barrier. I then slowly and gently separated the barrier from the door. From here, I took my time pulling away small sections at a time. If I noticed (what I felt to be) too much resistance, I pulled out the hair dryer again. I separated the barrier in all areas EXCEPT the very bottom, as it's unnecessary. Oh, and if you happen to tear the barrier in a few small places (it's OK, I did), no worries, just tape it back up with some tan scotch tape upon reassembly.

When the barrier is loose, reach into the door with a pair of pliers and remove the clips securing the window switch wiring bundle. There are two.

To allow for maximum access, I also removed the two screws securing the door handle to the door using a #3 Phillips screwdriver. I just left the assembly hanging, as it's quite rigid.

 

[Doc]

I just yanked out the old runs and put the new ones in without removing the door panel.

*edit* I did the runs only, however.

 

[Stylo07]

Go ahead and remove the small foam piece that goes over the door handle mechanism so it doesn't get damaged. If you're into the beer thing, now is a good time to grab one.

 

[Stylo07]

Before getting into the guide removal process, I wanted to show a few pictures of how my guide appeared after almost 20 years of use, sun, rain, snow, heat, cold, tree branches, so on and so forth. Despite the poor pictures, you'll see how it's shrunk over the years, pulling away from the frame.

 

[Stylo07]

Removing the old guides is quite simple. Using my thumb and index finger, I began at the top corners of the window frame by pinching the edges of the guide and pulling downward. The guide will begin to come loose, after which you can move your way to the other side, pulling the guide out of the track. Eventually, you'll have the guide removed from the track at the top of the door frame.

 

[Stylo07]

Once the guide is loose from the top, it's time to pull the sides from the remainder of the track. Remove one side at a time, using both hands firmly on the guide, pulling straight up toward the top of the frame.

 

[Stylo07]

Take this opportunity to clean the grime out of the tracks above and below the door skin. I used hot, soapy water and a dish rag. Clean the tracks until the rag is clean. Below are pictures of the tracks inside the door.

 

[Stylo07]

Now it's time to install the new guide. I let the new guide soak in hot soapy water for 5 minutes, allowing it to become pliable and slippery. I began by pressing the guide into the top of the window frame. I then grabbed one of the dangling ends of the guide and began to slide it into the track within the door skin until it would slide no more. Other than the soapy water, I used zero lubricant. I then moved to the other side and did the same thing.

Next, I pressed the guide into the sides of the window frame (the portion above the door skin) such that I could roll the window up 75% of its travel (you'll have to plug in the power window panel in order to do this). Doing so afforded me the room to reach into the door and pull downward on the 'tails' of the guide. To do so, remove the tails of the guide from the track and pull downward, removing any slack in the guide above the door skin.

 

[Stylo07]

Now is the time to ensure the guide extends all the way up to the top of the frame, leaving zero gap in the corners into which water and dirt can enter. If there's a gap, simply remove a portion of the guide from the side of the window frame and pull up, then reseat. Repeat, as necessary.