Is this normal? Steering Knuckle (Pics)

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TheLoyale

The Legend
Joined
Aug 27, 2011
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Location
Waukesha, WI
So I went under the 80 a few days ago, and noticed this. Its only on the passenger side, the Grease seems runny, but still smells like bearing grease. Is there anyway that an internal shaft seal is leaking Gear oil into the Knuckle?

Passenger Side
2011_1101AA.jpg


2011_1101AC.jpg


Driver Side is dry.
2011_1101AB.jpg


Thanks for any help you guys can offer,
-Tom :)
 
Passenger side looks like the soup (gear oil and knuckle grease combining) mixed with dirt or rust.

A great step by step in the FAQ section at the top of the 80 section.
 
Both sides look bad. It looks like grease mixed with water. Like arndog said time for an axle rebuild.
 
Hard to tell from the pix, also the grease, etc, on the outside is contaminated with road debris, etc. I would look/sample what is inside, through the fill hole. It looks like it needs a seal job, but: The level looks low, would bring the level up with fresh moly grease and see what does, for sure if you plan to drive it before doing the work. The birfs are $$$ and are quickly worn when run without proper lubrication. Even with some leakage, they can be run without damage, as long as the have moly grease at the proper level.

If you haven't done it, would check, change the axle gear oil. It gets contaminated/thickened with moly grease and needs to be changed relatively often.
 
I have had good results with Kurt's kit: Cruiser Outfitters

Thanks guys.

At least my wheel bearings are good, I regreased them and retorqued then a a month of two ago (I had some pretty good wheel play before)

From looking at the pictures of reading the FAQ thread, this is a pretty stright forward job eh? I don't need to press the knuckle bearings in do it? The race should tap in, correct?

All in all, how long should this job take? Just want to get an idea since I'll be doing this in the cold lol.
 
I spent over 15 hours, but I was in no hurry, had to wait on some parts to arrive (knuckle studs) during the job, and did a lot of rust sanding/treating and repainting on the parts. I only spent an hour or two at a time on it, longer durations would have made for less time, and not being overly OCD on the rebuild for painting, etc would have cut it to under 10 hours for a first time job.

Working in the cold sucks, been there done that on other cruiser projects, and it always takes longer it seems, hands are cold and gloves are in the way.
 
The first time I did mine I spread it out over two days. The tear down and cleaning took me about 5 hours one day. Putting everything back together took me about 3 hours the next. Hopefully you will be able to get inside to clean everything, which is really most of the work.
 
Found the Thread. So how much am I looking at with all the seals I need?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq-11.html

I've only had this rig since July, guess its time to get out of it before something else fails. A 221,000 Mile Subaru had less issues then the 80. This is the result of people just not taking care of their vehicles :doh:

You inspected the truck before you bought it and I am sure the knuckles looked just as rusted as they do now
Did the truck have a service histiry when you bought it?
A subaru with 220k on it that was not maintained would have issues as well
What else has failed on the truck?
It is just an axle seal, which should be serviced every 60k according to the FSM
From reading your other posts it looks like you spent most of your time doing pointless things, besides the Valve cover,
instead of properly baselining the truck
 
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Everything is covered in the FAQ front axle service thread: the knuckle/trunnion bearings come right out, the races need to be knocked out using something like a small brass punch or drift. After cleaning out any grime or rust from where the races seat you can tap the new races in carefully. Also be sure to power wash the axles and knuckles very well front and back the day before you start, maybe twice. Either way as others have said most of your time is spent cleaning the parts. If the knuckle/axle balls are rusted badly IMHO it may help the new knuckle wipers/seals to seal better and last longer if you sand the balls smooth while everything is apart.
 
Before this one started leaking, I thought thats just how the knuckles look on these things due to age. Never looked at a Solid Axle Toyota before (let alone any Toyota)

kidglove13, There is no point in coping an attitude with me in my thread seeing you are twice my age. I am trying to learn about the 80-Series, and seeing how labor intensive of a vehicle it is. I've only put 600 miles on it and so far its been nothing but repairing what the previous owners neglected. Needless to say I paid $3,500 for this rig, which I am now finding was a bit steep after going through the vehicle as I have.

Baselining, I went over the entire thing, Replaced all fluids/oils, Brakes, complete turn up, Greased all Zerks, Adjusted wheel bearings and Valve Adjustment. The rest of what I did was to get this thing to a decent condition cause I can't stand driving a dirty POS.

Anyhoo, as everyone said, the knuckle ball looks a little rusty, yes it does have some rust and some very old dried on grease, I thought that was normal for this design, so my question is, how do you keep these clean since its always out in the elements? I would think even having a coating of grease on it, it'll still start to rust, being raw steal.

-Tom
 
Before this one started leaking, I thought thats just how the knuckles look on these things due to age. Never looked at a Solid Axle Toyota before (let alone any Toyota)

kidglove13, There is no point in coping an attitude with me in my thread seeing you are twice my age. I am trying to learn about the 80-Series, and seeing how labor intensive of a vehicle it is. I've only put 600 miles on it and so far its been nothing but repairing what the previous owners neglected. Needless to say I paid $3,500 for this rig, which I am now finding was a bit steep after going through the vehicle as I have.

Baselining, I went over the entire thing, Replaced all fluids/oils, Brakes, complete turn up, Greased all Zerks, Adjusted wheel bearings and Valve Adjustment. The rest of what I did was to get this thing to a decent condition cause I can't stand driving a dirty POS.

Anyhoo, as everyone said, the knuckle ball looks a little rusty, yes it does have some rust and some very old dried on grease, I thought that was normal for this design, so my question is, how do you keep these clean since its always out in the elements? I would think even having a coating of grease on it, it'll still start to rust, being raw steal.

-Tom

Not coping an attitude man
Just stating the obvious thats all
We all start somewhere
It just bothers me when someone buys an 80 without doing their homework first on this type of vehicle and what it takes to maintain it properly
Then comes on here and says I might as well get rid of it before something else fails
Or these things require to much work
Or the gas mileage sucks
Its all good man I get it, we have all been there at some point and time
Any vehicle with 200k on it that is not maintained will have its issues
You sound like you are handy with a wrench
The front axle job is pretty easy just messy as all get out
Look up some of the local cruiser guys and get them to help you out.:cheers:
 
The Loyale: my trucks knuckle balls had more rust than yours when I did my first front axle service so I sanded then painted them with an epoxy paint 1 1/2 years ago, this is how they look now. If the knuckles are kept at the proper level of grease the balls are less likely to rust, but being up north you're probably more likely to get some rust either way?? Is your truck an FJ-80 with the 3FE?
DSC05511.webp
DSC05512.webp
 
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Idk what other repairs you have had to do on it.....but the axle needs to be done every so often.... I think 60k is the recommended interval, but don't quote me on that. My point is...at some point it needs to be done as normal maintenance and isn't a reason to ditch it. But if you feel that strongly about it, drive it west Virginia and I'll take it off your hands.:)
 
If the knuckles are kept at the proper level of grease the balls are less likely to rust. Mine had more rust than yours so I sanded then painted the balls with an epoxy paint 1 1/2 years ago, this is how they look now. Being up north you're more likely to get rust. Is your truck an FJ-80 with the 3FE?
I suppose this is the wrong time to tell you your balls look good painted?
 
Cool beans.

My Dad laughed at how much fuel this Inline-6 sucks, I don't care to much about MPG, I wanted a Big solid axle Toyota, so I read up on the 80 and it seemed like a good choice, just would have preferred it to have started leaking in Aug not Nov. ;)

My parents are no strangers to Toyota at least, They have a '88 Hilux 5spd (22RE) from '89 till '91. Now they have an '08 FJ (Rock solid thats for sure)

Cheers
-Tom :cheers:

Not coping an attitude man
Just stating the obvious thats all
We all start somewhere
It just bothers me when someone buys an 80 without doing their homework first on this type of vehicle and what it takes to maintain it properly
Then comes on here and says I might as well get rid of it before something else fails
Or these things require to much work
Or the gas mileage sucks
Its all good man I get it, we have all been there at some point and time
Any vehicle with 200k on it that is not maintained will have its issues
You sound like you are handy with a wrench
The front axle job is pretty easy just messy as all get out
Look up some of the local cruiser guys and get them to help you out.:cheers:
 
Axle housing end semi-spheres look good painted. Seriously, I used a spray epoxy paint, no primer, let it cure for two weeks while waiting on parts and doing some other repairs. The paint held up fairly well considering.
 

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