Hey guys I was just wondering how often and if one is supposed to change the tranny fluid on these beasts, I don't believe mine has ever had it done and its rolling around 212k without any problems, any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks much
Transmission fluid changes
- Thread starter Sillst
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Clutchee
I'm fun sized!
May wanta read through this post I started:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78884
Hope this helps.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78884
Hope this helps.
What year is your rig?
The thread referenced above covers it all, the rest is personal preference.
ie: drop the pan versus multiple changes of 3-4 quarts at a time versus a complete flush; I found that a complete flush done properly (key) gave me the best result, it just took awhile to get there; but read on for the details.
One thing I found is that if you look very very very (very) closely at the ATF dipstick under very very full bright sunlight, you will see tiny little particles floating in the ATF as you tilt the dipstick; more or less depending on wear, etc. You do not want to see a lot of metal sparklies; a few OK, a lot, not OK.
If a lot of debris is seen; then take your pick; drop the pan to clean it manually, or, flush the system a few times; I did the latter as I did not want to risk leaks from the pan. And as you will read, the filter is a fine mesh metal screen, IME they really don't get clogged up like what you might see in a neglected GM, Chrylser, Ford, tranny filter.
Another thing I discovered; if you have a Toyota dealer perform a tranny flush, you must request that they use 14-16 quarts. Reason being, between the total capacity of the TC, the Tranny, and the cooler, you are somewhere around 12-14 quarts, and you want to use a bit extra, to really "flush"out all the cleaner that they put in, as well as all the old ATF, debris, etc,
I had flushes performed at two dealers before I realized that they were only using 6 quarts per flush. I couldn't understand why my ATF still had some debris, just a tiny bit, but it still was there after two flushes about 15K miles apart. That is when I asked them how much ATF they used; 6 quarts. So, the next time I took it to a BG shop, brought them 16 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and had them do it. Before it was done that last time, I added two bottles of the LUBEGARD tranny flush; it is not a solvent and will not hurt anything. About $10 a bottle at NAPA. Real good stuff IMO
After that last clean and complete flush, it shifted better than it had in years. Perfect.
Take your pick, pick your poison. Any method you choose is better then not changing it. Just be sure to use a high quality Dexron type ATF, and not the bulk crap they use in most quick lube shops. IMO
The thread referenced above covers it all, the rest is personal preference.
ie: drop the pan versus multiple changes of 3-4 quarts at a time versus a complete flush; I found that a complete flush done properly (key) gave me the best result, it just took awhile to get there; but read on for the details.
One thing I found is that if you look very very very (very) closely at the ATF dipstick under very very full bright sunlight, you will see tiny little particles floating in the ATF as you tilt the dipstick; more or less depending on wear, etc. You do not want to see a lot of metal sparklies; a few OK, a lot, not OK.
If a lot of debris is seen; then take your pick; drop the pan to clean it manually, or, flush the system a few times; I did the latter as I did not want to risk leaks from the pan. And as you will read, the filter is a fine mesh metal screen, IME they really don't get clogged up like what you might see in a neglected GM, Chrylser, Ford, tranny filter.
Another thing I discovered; if you have a Toyota dealer perform a tranny flush, you must request that they use 14-16 quarts. Reason being, between the total capacity of the TC, the Tranny, and the cooler, you are somewhere around 12-14 quarts, and you want to use a bit extra, to really "flush"out all the cleaner that they put in, as well as all the old ATF, debris, etc,
I had flushes performed at two dealers before I realized that they were only using 6 quarts per flush. I couldn't understand why my ATF still had some debris, just a tiny bit, but it still was there after two flushes about 15K miles apart. That is when I asked them how much ATF they used; 6 quarts. So, the next time I took it to a BG shop, brought them 16 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and had them do it. Before it was done that last time, I added two bottles of the LUBEGARD tranny flush; it is not a solvent and will not hurt anything. About $10 a bottle at NAPA. Real good stuff IMO
After that last clean and complete flush, it shifted better than it had in years. Perfect.
Take your pick, pick your poison. Any method you choose is better then not changing it. Just be sure to use a high quality Dexron type ATF, and not the bulk crap they use in most quick lube shops. IMO
Drain and refill with every oil change.
Pan drop once a year. The filter, on the contrary, does indeed get pretty sooty and filled up with small particles. Some carb cleaner does the job. It's a good time to clean the magnets in the pan as well and take a gander at the beauty of your valve body.
Get some FIPG and clean off the old gasket material and put pan back up (also get tranny filler tube o-ring and replace it while you are at it).
1/2 hour tops. 10mm socket and a 14mm socket and a scraper and you are good to go.
-o-
Pan drop once a year. The filter, on the contrary, does indeed get pretty sooty and filled up with small particles. Some carb cleaner does the job. It's a good time to clean the magnets in the pan as well and take a gander at the beauty of your valve body.
Get some FIPG and clean off the old gasket material and put pan back up (also get tranny filler tube o-ring and replace it while you are at it).
1/2 hour tops. 10mm socket and a 14mm socket and a scraper and you are good to go.
-o-
I used to worry about my trannies until I realized it was (at least some) wasted effort (no offense or real disagreement with beno, or anyone).
On my FJ-62 which I've owned since it had 4 miles on the odo, I changed transmission fluid (Mobil Synthetic) at least as often as I changed my oil, pulled the pan half a dozen times, cleaned the screen even replaced the screen, and cleaned the little magnets (had very little debris on them due to all the fluid changes, almost none). Well, the tranny still died at 240K; I had probably spent as much on synthetic ATF over the years as it cost to replace the tranny.
By dropping the pan I agree totally, you can clean off the little magnets and inspect the pan, clean the screen, etc; can't argue against that at all. Depends on how far you want to take it; if you have the time and place to do the work, go for it. You can also put a small filter in the cooler lines meant to pick up metal; I bought one from NAPA. The goal is to prevent small metal particles from getting embedded in the little valves, O-rings, etc. in the valve body.
From my perspective/experience; change the fluid by whatever method you choose and you have time for, and your tranny will treat you good. Everytime you do change it some of the small particles will come out, more or less depending on how you perform the changes. With a complete flush (using the Lubegard product) any debris that may have been in there all came out in my rig. I now have 30K+ on my tranny after the complete 16 qt flush; totally clean fluid; no particles at all. Perfect. Wish I had done that sooner.
Dropping the pan on your new (to you) rig will for sure tell you where you are now (regarding the screen and debris), then go from there.
Maybe I will drop the pan on my 80 next summer just to look inside; I'll be more likely to do it if Santa leaves me an Ingersol Rand Lithium battery cordless ratchet # R380 (hint to Santa).
On my FJ-62 which I've owned since it had 4 miles on the odo, I changed transmission fluid (Mobil Synthetic) at least as often as I changed my oil, pulled the pan half a dozen times, cleaned the screen even replaced the screen, and cleaned the little magnets (had very little debris on them due to all the fluid changes, almost none). Well, the tranny still died at 240K; I had probably spent as much on synthetic ATF over the years as it cost to replace the tranny.
By dropping the pan I agree totally, you can clean off the little magnets and inspect the pan, clean the screen, etc; can't argue against that at all. Depends on how far you want to take it; if you have the time and place to do the work, go for it. You can also put a small filter in the cooler lines meant to pick up metal; I bought one from NAPA. The goal is to prevent small metal particles from getting embedded in the little valves, O-rings, etc. in the valve body.
From my perspective/experience; change the fluid by whatever method you choose and you have time for, and your tranny will treat you good. Everytime you do change it some of the small particles will come out, more or less depending on how you perform the changes. With a complete flush (using the Lubegard product) any debris that may have been in there all came out in my rig. I now have 30K+ on my tranny after the complete 16 qt flush; totally clean fluid; no particles at all. Perfect. Wish I had done that sooner.
Dropping the pan on your new (to you) rig will for sure tell you where you are now (regarding the screen and debris), then go from there.
Maybe I will drop the pan on my 80 next summer just to look inside; I'll be more likely to do it if Santa leaves me an Ingersol Rand Lithium battery cordless ratchet # R380 (hint to Santa).
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