From my build thread..For a FAQ submission.
89-95 4Runner/Truck Bucket Seat Driver's Seat Repair/Swap Lowers
By NorCalBorn (Shane)
*There's two ways to do this, like I did, using a passenger side lower from a wreckers and making both like new, or just cheating and swapping what's in your vehicle.
I like having them all in good shape, a little more expensive, but worth the effort IMHO.
Want a cheaper and easier way to fix your torn driver's seat in your 4Runner/Truck w/ bucket seats?
Well, find a good passenger seat and just swap the lowers over!
The problem, wear and tear has destroyed the side of the driver's seat.
Donor Passenger Seat that will give it's lower to replace my driver's side one.
Save all the hardware you can get, you'll see why later on.
(Note I am not including this disassembly as it's the same as the driver's side.)
Push the driver's seat back, and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the rails down.
Then move the seat all the way forward to expose the rear bolts, which will be covered by trim pieces.
Use a small standard tip screwdriver, like this, and carefully
pry up to remove the covers so you can get to the last two bolts.
*Note: For some reason, every time I've done a Toyota w/ bucket seats,
both sets of inside bolts, closest to the center console, even sometimes the
inside rear, is always cross threaded, why in the note above I suggest saving
any hardware from the donor seat.
Carefully remove the seat from your vehicle, being careful to not snag on
anything or scratch the paint.
(*Lesson I learned the hard way when putting mine back in. :whoops: )
Clean up the carpet from all your spare change,
stray pens and french fries, random pet hairs and dust bunnies.
Also, go ahead and chase and lube the bolt (body mount point) holes so you
can take care of any factory cross thread issues.
Begin prep on your seat needing repair. Remove the recline and trim cap
pieces with a small phillips screwdriver. Push the outside trim piece forward
past the reclining latch and it'll pop clean off. For the inner one, you need to both
push forward, and carefully locate the retention tabs on the piece, pry them off
while pushing forward and it'll pop free also.
There are now 4 12mm bolts holding the seat lower in place, remove them all.
*Note from this point forward, you must exercise extreme caution to not hit the
seat release lever or the center wire that strings the catches together.
If you hit them while your hand or fingers are in the area, it won't be a pretty
result. Basically, be careful, wear leather gloves, and take your time!
Locations of front bolts.
Locations of rear bolts.
All done with that step.
Pull upwards and forward (from the seat back) to remove the lower.
Now is a great time to inspect and clean/lube your seat rails..
Again, keeping in mind the note about not touching the release lever or center
wire so you keep your hand and fingers safe.
I used White Lightening Clean Streak, some bearing lube, and some Tri-Flow,
good stuff, doesn't harm any finishes, and available at most local bicycle shops.
Go ahead and also clean and prep your replacement lower.
I went ahead and used Spot Shot (made by the folks at WD-40) as it also
doesn't harm any finishes, works great, and is also available in a trigger bottle.
(Just used the spray style since it was left over from a recent carpet cleaning project.)
Reinstall the lower, using reverse order of the steps above, taking care to not
overtighten the 4 bolts for the lower assembly and the 3 phillips screws for the
trim pieces.
Put the seat back in your vehicle, (Don't scratch the paint!) and torque down the
four bolts there. Reinstall the rear trim covers, put your seat in the right place,
and check everything for proper working order before you go for a drive.
Sit back and admire your work. BTW..
**No that isn't blood on my wrench, or my tools you are always seeing,
it's crimson paint that reminds me to be careful and safe.
Silly, probably, but it does work as a great reminder.
89-95 4Runner/Truck Bucket Seat Driver's Seat Repair/Swap Lowers
By NorCalBorn (Shane)
*There's two ways to do this, like I did, using a passenger side lower from a wreckers and making both like new, or just cheating and swapping what's in your vehicle.
I like having them all in good shape, a little more expensive, but worth the effort IMHO.
Want a cheaper and easier way to fix your torn driver's seat in your 4Runner/Truck w/ bucket seats?
Well, find a good passenger seat and just swap the lowers over!
The problem, wear and tear has destroyed the side of the driver's seat.
Donor Passenger Seat that will give it's lower to replace my driver's side one.
Save all the hardware you can get, you'll see why later on.
(Note I am not including this disassembly as it's the same as the driver's side.)
Push the driver's seat back, and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the rails down.
Then move the seat all the way forward to expose the rear bolts, which will be covered by trim pieces.
Use a small standard tip screwdriver, like this, and carefully
pry up to remove the covers so you can get to the last two bolts.
*Note: For some reason, every time I've done a Toyota w/ bucket seats,
both sets of inside bolts, closest to the center console, even sometimes the
inside rear, is always cross threaded, why in the note above I suggest saving
any hardware from the donor seat.
Carefully remove the seat from your vehicle, being careful to not snag on
anything or scratch the paint.
(*Lesson I learned the hard way when putting mine back in. :whoops: )
Clean up the carpet from all your spare change,
stray pens and french fries, random pet hairs and dust bunnies.
Also, go ahead and chase and lube the bolt (body mount point) holes so you
can take care of any factory cross thread issues.
Begin prep on your seat needing repair. Remove the recline and trim cap
pieces with a small phillips screwdriver. Push the outside trim piece forward
past the reclining latch and it'll pop clean off. For the inner one, you need to both
push forward, and carefully locate the retention tabs on the piece, pry them off
while pushing forward and it'll pop free also.
There are now 4 12mm bolts holding the seat lower in place, remove them all.
*Note from this point forward, you must exercise extreme caution to not hit the
seat release lever or the center wire that strings the catches together.
If you hit them while your hand or fingers are in the area, it won't be a pretty
result. Basically, be careful, wear leather gloves, and take your time!
Locations of front bolts.
Locations of rear bolts.
All done with that step.
Pull upwards and forward (from the seat back) to remove the lower.
Now is a great time to inspect and clean/lube your seat rails..
Again, keeping in mind the note about not touching the release lever or center
wire so you keep your hand and fingers safe.
I used White Lightening Clean Streak, some bearing lube, and some Tri-Flow,
good stuff, doesn't harm any finishes, and available at most local bicycle shops.
Go ahead and also clean and prep your replacement lower.
I went ahead and used Spot Shot (made by the folks at WD-40) as it also
doesn't harm any finishes, works great, and is also available in a trigger bottle.
(Just used the spray style since it was left over from a recent carpet cleaning project.)
Reinstall the lower, using reverse order of the steps above, taking care to not
overtighten the 4 bolts for the lower assembly and the 3 phillips screws for the
trim pieces.
Put the seat back in your vehicle, (Don't scratch the paint!) and torque down the
four bolts there. Reinstall the rear trim covers, put your seat in the right place,
and check everything for proper working order before you go for a drive.
Sit back and admire your work. BTW..
**No that isn't blood on my wrench, or my tools you are always seeing,
it's crimson paint that reminds me to be careful and safe.
Silly, probably, but it does work as a great reminder.
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