Electric Locking Hubs (1 Viewer)

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canadian bum

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I have an HZJ73 with electric locking hubs and the hubs aren't disengaging. I imagine the hubs unlock when there is power present and lock when there is no power. Anyways I am wondering if someone has a wiring diagram of this. Or locations of relays.

Thanks,
John
 
I'm working on getting you the diagrams.

Is your's LHD or RHD?


Also, I have seen problems with electric hubs mentioned a few times previously, you should be able to search and find previous discussions about them.

I didn't really take much notice since I have manual hubs, but I think that the view was that problems are usually caused by incorrect assembly/installation of the hub components, possibly the brushes and contacts not going in correctly, or something like that.

Hopefully someone will reply with info about this.

You might need the repair manual pages for the Power Locking Hub, but there is quite a few of them.
 
It's electrical issue. Tested the harness now I need to find the location and wiring of the circuit. Did a search didn't find any articles prior to this thread.
 
Testing these hubs is dead easy. They power in and power out - the power is pulsed for about 5 or 8 seconds and then shuts off.

The first test should be to check the power with an appropriate test light at the plug at each wheel well. One wire becomes ground and other other +, then this reverses when the switch is selected to the other position.

Common failures of these hubs are the brushes and the slip rings that the brushes ride on.

Do the electrical test first at each wheel well, then if that is okay, proceed to the slip rings and while you have the hubs off check the brushes.

Be sure to retract the brushes with a wire during installation. This is detailed elsewhere in this forum under knuckle rebuilding.

~John
 
OK John (Canadian Bum), have emailed you the 70 Series Electrical Wiring Diagram manual, just the RHD 1HZ pages that I already had scanned in.

This EWD manual is dated Aug., 1992, so not sure if it matches your truck exactly.

And I scanned in, and emailed to you, the Power Locking Hub section from the 70 Series Repair Manual for Chassis & Body, dated Jan., 1990, which has detailed troubleshooting/disassembly/assembly instructions for the electric hubs.

Hope they help.
 
If you chose to convert your hubs, you'll find it straight forward.

I converted mine to a manual hub. You will need the spindles, hubs, and housing that goes between the manual hub and the rotor. My parts came from a mid 80's BJ60. You will have no trouble with fitting them. Plug the hole where the wire goes in with a chunk of rubber and rtv silicon.
 
This is my way of checking the slip ring , press the hub lock button in , the light should come on for 4-5 seconds, press to release the button and the light should go for 4-5 seconds.
SLIP RING 002.jpg
 
If you chose to convert your hubs, you'll find it straight forward.

I converted mine to a manual hub. You will need the spindles, hubs, and housing that goes between the manual hub and the rotor. My parts came from a mid 80's BJ60. You will have no trouble with fitting them. Plug the hole where the wire goes in with a chunk of rubber and rtv silicon.

spindles, hubs and knuckle housings only? Do you have to get different birfs?
 
Use your own nuckle housings / axles / calipers.
Replace the spindle ie ( stub axle ) this is longer than the electric hub type spindle, togeather with the main bearing hubs and locking nuts / locking tab washers and the thick keyed washer..
 
Hi,

My electric locking hub seems like having the same problem. I'm thinking of converting it to manual locking system as adviced by oldblue.

But before that I need some advice;

If I permanently lock the hubs, disable its hub-lock switch, and only turn to 4WD using 4H switch. Is that a good practice?

I am planning to install LOKKA at my front wheel, but cost to convert to manual locking system could cut my budget to buy LOKKA.

thanks,
Ray.
 
You will still need to use the Hub Lock switch as it's connected to the Hub Lock ECU , With out it you won't get 4WD.
It might work if you could leave the hub lock on ( closed circut ).
 
You will still need to use the Hub Lock switch as it's connected to the Hub Lock ECU , With out it you won't get 4WD.
It might work if you could leave the hub lock on ( closed circut ).

OK. thanks for that great info.

I'm planning to manually lock the hub inside the hub cover, install back the cover, disconnect the cable to the motor. Then when I need to used 4WD, I need to switch both HUB LOCK and 4H switches.

Since I am using this vehicle everyday to work/travel/shopping/etc, does it affect my axle/any of related parts? especially on long journey with high speed?

Thanks,
Ray.
 
have you opened the cover of the hubs? sounds to me like the previous owner manually locked them in place, because the brushes were worn.

or it could be electrical.

thread on fixing the brushes here. an annoying but rewarding job.

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11686&highlight=electric+hubs+fixed

Thanks Redd.

I always send it to workshop and I always saw them opened my hub lock. the problem is the brushes were worn. I think I have replaced it with used electric locking hub. It worn easily. Maybe because I always travel about 500km per week.

Your link on fixing the brushes was great.

Thanks.
Ray.
 

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