I am trying to fit 34x12.5s cleanly under my SUA FJ62. I want to take small steps to get there. If this body lift does not work, I am aware of the shackle reversal but I do not want to go there yet.
The truck already has a 3" - 3.5" OME suspsion lift. I decided to use a Rodger Brown 1" lift. You can find it here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
I went with the poly body mounts as well. The transaction was fine and everything arrived just fine, good man to deal with.
There are instructions you can print from the website. Here is what we did.
By the way, if any of you are driving distance to Meriden, CT and would drive there for cruiser work, I know an EXCELLENT guy, PM me for his info. Back to the lift...
Located all of the body mounts just to see what we were dealing with. There are 6 on each side (12 total).
Fist remove the overlow hose across the top of the radiator, then remove the overflow cannister by pulling it up. Set them aside.
Then we removed the radiator fan shrowd. This must be removed and modified or when you lift the body, the fan blades will hit the bottom as the radiator is moved up the distance of the lift. This removal is done by removing all the shrowd bolts (6 i think), then pushing the shrowd back towards the motor and reaching in and removing the 4 bolts holding the fan on (10mm i think). Once the fan is off, pull it out with the shrowd still on. I think the next step would be to remove the top radiator hose and pull the shrowd out. We did not do this. We used an angle grinder to cut the shrowd in half.
To cut it in half we turned in 90 degrees (still in the engine bay) so that one side is now facing us on the top and one side is now on the bottom. We used an angle grinder to cut it in 1/2 about 1/2 way down the side (top). Then, I was able to pull it apart while Spencer reached down, and cut the other side in 1/2. Be carefuel as the grinder was very close to the radiator fins while cutting the side that was down low. In 2 pieces, the shrowd came out very easily and no coolant hoses had to be removed.
Now it is time to get to the body mounts. To do so, the battery and tray must be removed. The front seats should be removed and you will need to unscrew the plastic peices on all 4 door sills so you can peel the carpet back.
Once the battery is removed you can get to the front body mount on the drivers side and the other one is easily accessible anyway.
Removing the tray:
The next is back behind the brake bedal, and the same on the passenger side:
The next set back is just inside of the rear mounting point for the front seats:
The 4th set is practically under the reat seat:
The 5th set is just to the rear of the rear wheelwell:
The 6th set is located just infront of the rear bumper. There is a shield covering the gas neck, you should remove it. Scrape away the crud on the back panels towards the tailgate and you will find two screws per side. Remove them and the small panels and you can get to the 6th set of bolts (yes Jason, there they are!!!):
Loosen the bolts down one side and remove the bolts down the other. This is where you gain even more respect for your PO when you find anti-seeze on the bolts. Thank you. Also, I sprayed all of the bolts 1x per day for the week before with PB Blaster, Kroil works well too.
Now you jack up one side. There are a few ways to jack up the body. One is to use highlifts in the wheelwells. You can even use just one in the rear wheelwell if that is all you have. We used two 4x4 pieces of wood on floor jacks. It was solid.
From the side with the removed bolts, replace the body mounts and add the lift block and washer. Drop the bolts in, tighten the nuts just a bit and let the body down slowly. Jack the other side and repeat.
When you have everything lined up and on, tighten them all down. Do not overtighten as I did the first time. I am not sure how far to go but I tightened just enough to see the body mounts ever so slightly compress. I might back them off a bit, not sure yet.
Now it is time to put the fan shrowd back on. We put notches in the side instead of measuring and drilling. This way, we could slide it to fit right where we wanted it to:
I think that is of the lower *half*.
Put the battery back in and the collant overflow back on along with the panels and shield in the rear.
When it was done it looked good. Unfortunately I do not have a pic of the complete truck! (Jason, post yours here). The gaps in the front bumper and on the sliders were not that noticable but the rear bumper is driving me nuts. I will have to have the 1" gap fixed.
I went with the 1" lift for its minimum impact but decent gain in height.. The tranny and radiator and shift linkage are all fine with this moderate lift. Anything more would have concerned me.
The truck already has a 3" - 3.5" OME suspsion lift. I decided to use a Rodger Brown 1" lift. You can find it here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml
I went with the poly body mounts as well. The transaction was fine and everything arrived just fine, good man to deal with.
There are instructions you can print from the website. Here is what we did.
By the way, if any of you are driving distance to Meriden, CT and would drive there for cruiser work, I know an EXCELLENT guy, PM me for his info. Back to the lift...
Located all of the body mounts just to see what we were dealing with. There are 6 on each side (12 total).
Fist remove the overlow hose across the top of the radiator, then remove the overflow cannister by pulling it up. Set them aside.
Then we removed the radiator fan shrowd. This must be removed and modified or when you lift the body, the fan blades will hit the bottom as the radiator is moved up the distance of the lift. This removal is done by removing all the shrowd bolts (6 i think), then pushing the shrowd back towards the motor and reaching in and removing the 4 bolts holding the fan on (10mm i think). Once the fan is off, pull it out with the shrowd still on. I think the next step would be to remove the top radiator hose and pull the shrowd out. We did not do this. We used an angle grinder to cut the shrowd in half.
To cut it in half we turned in 90 degrees (still in the engine bay) so that one side is now facing us on the top and one side is now on the bottom. We used an angle grinder to cut it in 1/2 about 1/2 way down the side (top). Then, I was able to pull it apart while Spencer reached down, and cut the other side in 1/2. Be carefuel as the grinder was very close to the radiator fins while cutting the side that was down low. In 2 pieces, the shrowd came out very easily and no coolant hoses had to be removed.
Now it is time to get to the body mounts. To do so, the battery and tray must be removed. The front seats should be removed and you will need to unscrew the plastic peices on all 4 door sills so you can peel the carpet back.
Once the battery is removed you can get to the front body mount on the drivers side and the other one is easily accessible anyway.
Removing the tray:
The next is back behind the brake bedal, and the same on the passenger side:
The next set back is just inside of the rear mounting point for the front seats:
The 4th set is practically under the reat seat:
The 5th set is just to the rear of the rear wheelwell:
The 6th set is located just infront of the rear bumper. There is a shield covering the gas neck, you should remove it. Scrape away the crud on the back panels towards the tailgate and you will find two screws per side. Remove them and the small panels and you can get to the 6th set of bolts (yes Jason, there they are!!!):
Loosen the bolts down one side and remove the bolts down the other. This is where you gain even more respect for your PO when you find anti-seeze on the bolts. Thank you. Also, I sprayed all of the bolts 1x per day for the week before with PB Blaster, Kroil works well too.
Now you jack up one side. There are a few ways to jack up the body. One is to use highlifts in the wheelwells. You can even use just one in the rear wheelwell if that is all you have. We used two 4x4 pieces of wood on floor jacks. It was solid.
From the side with the removed bolts, replace the body mounts and add the lift block and washer. Drop the bolts in, tighten the nuts just a bit and let the body down slowly. Jack the other side and repeat.
When you have everything lined up and on, tighten them all down. Do not overtighten as I did the first time. I am not sure how far to go but I tightened just enough to see the body mounts ever so slightly compress. I might back them off a bit, not sure yet.
Now it is time to put the fan shrowd back on. We put notches in the side instead of measuring and drilling. This way, we could slide it to fit right where we wanted it to:
I think that is of the lower *half*.
Put the battery back in and the collant overflow back on along with the panels and shield in the rear.
When it was done it looked good. Unfortunately I do not have a pic of the complete truck! (Jason, post yours here). The gaps in the front bumper and on the sliders were not that noticable but the rear bumper is driving me nuts. I will have to have the 1" gap fixed.
I went with the 1" lift for its minimum impact but decent gain in height.. The tranny and radiator and shift linkage are all fine with this moderate lift. Anything more would have concerned me.
read the article good write up answered all my question 
