Fuel economy

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Joined
Oct 25, 2007
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28
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114
I've a lot here lately about guys getting 14-15 mpg. I live in a very urban area and mostly drive between my house and my girlfriends, so I don't expect my mpg to be very good, but it's only about 8.5 mpg.

But even out on the highway for a whole tank I'm about 11 mpg.

i'm pretty well tuned up. What are you all doing to get such good mileage?
 
good tune and moderate driving...

what carb?
 
i dont drive over 2800-2900 RPM (I usually run right at 2600-2700 PRM) and all my driving is pretty much freeway and i average 15.16 MPG I have seen 16 MPG before but only like once.

when i toss a 6 hour day of wheeling (bout 20 or so miles in lo range) my average (wheeling combined with normal highway driving) my average dropps anywhere from 8.5 - 10.5 MPG (varrys on how i drove and how long the truck sat and idled how hard i was on the skinny pedal ect.)
 
Take into account the you will se a drop in economy of probably 5-10 percent in the winter due to cold weather blended fuels compared to the summer blends. Also if you are in an area that has ethanol (E10) blended fuel you will see up to another 7 - 10 percent less mpgs.

Make sure you are well tuned, timed properly, and O2 sensors are functioning correctly. My 80 (injected 3fe) is now getting 13.5 w/ winter fuel and ethanol. 15 mpg in warm weather. It is well tuned. Have not driven or wrenched my 60 enough yet to compare.

What was your summer mpgs?
 
60 or 62?
Tune up with new OEM parts, Desmog helped me but YMMV, 33x10.50's on stock gears is great for highway but not so hot around town.
 
What size tires are you running? With stock tires, 9 to 11 mpg in the city and 11 to 13 highway is what my window sticker says is estimated.

With 31s and real slow driving, I get about 12 in the stop and go and 14 on the highway. And it's pretty nicely tuned.

A lot of the posts I've seen saying the 14-16 mpg range were 33s with stock gears.
 
Snipped from LCML years ago:

Summary of Best Efficiency Cruiser parts-
Engine: 81-87 2F w/ closed chamber, hi-compression head, lightweight valvetrain, polished SS SBC valves, oil cooler, aluminum water pump, fan clutch.
Carb: desmogged, tuned Aisan 38/40 vac secondary 2-bbl
Air cleaner: stock housing w/ cold ram air snorkle intact and a new Nippondenso element.
ignition: Nippondenso 81-87 HEI electronic system w/ recurved waterproof distributor
Plug wires: Yazaki resistor wires or custom-built metal core wires.
Spark plugs: NipponDenso W14EXR-U for mixed street & trail, W16EXR-U if running on highway mostly. W1xEX-U can be used if radio interference is unimportant. NGK BPR4EY is a good substitute for W14EXR-U, BPR5EY for W16EXR-U.
Motor oil: lightest grade of synthetic that provides acceptable hot oil pressure. 10W30 summer & 5W30 winter, if engine is healthy.
Transmission: 4 or 5 speed manual, Redline MTL synthetic
Transfer case: Split case, Redline MT-90 synthetic
Axles: 3.70 gears, Redline 75W90, no LSD or autolocker
Tires: Radial all terrain 30x9.50R15 on stock 15x6. 33x9.50 tires are also acceptable w/ 4-speed, handling is worse. Inflate to max pressure.
Exhaust: chrome header, free flow exhaust system, no catalyst.
Intake manifold: 79-87 w/ added fluid heat riser and chopped & plugged EGR.
emission controls: modified per Ih8mud.com diagram
AIR pump: replaced w/ adjustable tensioner pulley
PCV valve: billet steel Toyota
rear view mirrors: small
roof rack: none
Push bumper & grill guard & winch & dual batts.: none

The odometer reading is inaccurate, so the MPG is not accurate. Try resetting the trip odo in the dash and the trip odo on the GPS simultaneously while taking a long drive. Compare the two to calculate odo and MPG error.
 
I've been running 31x10.50's for quite some time getting 12-13 mpg around town. That's with a tuned up JimC carb, NGK plugs, OEM wires, cap & rotor, new exhaust & correct stock vacuum setup. I typically run the cheap stuff (87~89) because i'm well, cheap! I get about 220 miles on a tank of 19-20 gallons, then add 10% for slightly larger tires.

Just got new 33x9.50's and hoping to burn thru a tank and calculate the new mpg. I'm not sure what % I'll use this time but I hope to get 13-14 mpg or better.

My EGR valve is not connected right now so I might be getting slightly less mpg than i should.
 
Sorry, should have said up front. It's a 62, and I run 31" tires (my next set will be 33, I think).

I've only had it since November, so no warm weather comparison.

Hah! With they auto i don't get near 2800 rpms.
 
Sorry, should have said up front. It's a 62, and I run 31" tires (my next set will be 33, I think).

I've only had it since November, so no warm weather comparison.

Hah! With they auto i don't get near 2800 rpms.

I have the same setup and consistently get 11MPG, summer or winter, driving around this small town. Have achieved 16MPG plus on the Alcan highway. I think your mileage should be better.
 
Increased Highway MPG by a Third

Mine is a 90 Fj62 with about 280K plus two years of no speedo cable. In the 18 years I've had the Curiser 've never adjusted the valves or messed with timing. Past year or so I was getting right at or just below 10 mpg in town and maybe 11 on the highway. Last couple of weeks its had an idle issue, idled at 1000-1200 rpm in park and neutral.

Yesterday I took apart the throttle body (which was caked inside with black sticky carbon residue) cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and steel wool. Put in new spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and air filter in order to make a 600 mile round trip from LA to Bass Lake.

Idle problem didn't go away immediately but after about 2 hours on the highway it seemed to start working (idles now around 600-650 rpm).

Point of the post is that general maintenance goes a long way. My mileage went to 13.6 mpg and I was running between 70-80 mph all day on the flat stretches. I was also able to go up the Grapevine both ways at 60-65 mph which I can't ever remember doing. For me this means I'm saving about $20 every fillup.

Now I've got to adjust the valves and check the timing which I have put off for ever. Anxious to see if I can get it up into the 15-17 mpg that others get.
 
I was way overdue for new plugs and wires and swapped them out recently. I was getting about 11 mpg with mixed driving (not factoring in my 33 inch tires which is would put me at somewhere around 12.5). Even with really bad plugs I could pull about 12.5 uncorrected mpg on just highway.

I replaced the plugs and wires and found that I'm now getting getting 12 or so mpg mixed driving and about 14.5 with mostly highway driving. Factoring in my heavy ass 33 inch Mud Terrains, that almost 17mpg!

Basic maintainance goes a long way and definately pays for itself pretty quick!
 
So while we are talking about fuel mileage, does the 33 rubber overdrive work with the 62 as well? kinda like it does with the 40? I would love to see better mileage out of my 62 and 40. I am due for a new set of tire on the 62, running stock size now, I would love to jump up to 33's, but I figured that would hurt my mileage in the 62... Someone please tell me if I am wrong....
 
Did not buy my Fj62 for MPG, but on a flat trip to fresno(about 170 miles) I got 17.18 mpg @ 68 mph +/- 3, using a GPS. And 31" BFG AT's.
 
Well I tell you what, I sure had gas mileage on my mind, as I passed by the prius, and corolla, and headed straght toward the landcruiser...
 
Well I tell you what, I sure had gas mileage on my mind, as I passed by the prius, and corolla, and headed straght toward the landcruiser...

Just saying (imo) anyone that buys a LC and whines about MPG, is a dumazz!
 
I feel like I had better mileage with smaller tires, 31's were maybe 2 mpg better than my wide 32"s.

You might try searching for a thread where a member installed an oil catch can in the pcv line and reported an increase in mileage.
 
I'm getting in the low 20's and mid twenties on a conservative long drive.
Everything stock and on 31 x 10.5 BFG all terrains with a roof rack























oh yeah I'm also running a 12HT diesel ;)
 

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