Have FF and disks, check your bearings.

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euclid

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I've been chaseing a vibration for weeks. "Checked" the wheel bearings in the rear by moving the wheel in and out, and at an angle. What I didn't consider is the fact that the caliper was holding the wheel in place, so play in the bearings didn't show up.

I heard a noise yesterday afternoon, thought it was something in the suspension, which I've been messing with a lot lately.

This afternoon after a short 15 mile or so drive I had grease throwing out on the inside of the tire.

The DS inner wheel bearing is completely gone. Grenade. Made metal/grease mush inside the hub. Part of the inner race of the bearing welded to the spindle. I'll have to grind the spindle back down to get the new bearing to seat. The outer oil seal was gone, and the axle rubbed against the inside of the spindle enough that I had to grind it down some to make a spot for the oil seal.

Checkem folks.

Here's my question: I see Cruiser outfitters has the FF bearing and seal kit on their site. I'm waiting on a call back from Kurt now. Anyone know if he stocks them? I'm wondering if the parts are going to be hard to find since it's a FF. I'm scheduled to leav for Big Bend/Katemcy in 13 days!
 
I don't know if he stocks them but the bearings and seals are the same for the FF rear as the front axle. One note is the seals have different part #'s but dementionally are the same.

Sorry to hear about your delema. You should have no problems getting it up to speed again.

clint
 
I buy all my bearings/seals from kurt most normally i have them ALL in a few days.....fast shipping
 
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I don't know if he stocks them but the bearings and seals are the same for the FF rear as the front axle. One note is the seals have different part #'s but dementionally are the same.

Sorry to hear about your delema. You should have no problems getting it up to speed again.

clint

Clint, I suspected that and hoped someone would confirm. That gives me encouragement that I can get the parts in time.

I actually have an extra front inner oil seal. I'll match it up tomorrow and see how it sizes up.
 
Looking at my manual, I'm thinking I don't need seal number 31 in the explosion below since I have the disks. It backs up aginst the brake backing plate, which is gone on my truck.
Looks to me like number 35, the oil seal, buts against the spindle, and the inner bearing rests on the inside of the spindle.


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I'm going to tear apart the other side tomorrow. Hopefully it is intact, and I can see what seats where. I'll also PM sixty, who did the disk conversion on this axle.
 
you are correct. the #31 seal is just a rubber o-ring seal anyway just some extra engineering on Toyota's side. #35 butts against the bearing and #80 seal sits inside the axle tube.

again good luck on the repair and post some pics of the RDB set up when you are finished.

clint
 
Looks like the hub is shot too. The hub is the same as the front hub, IIUC. Right?

Toyota dealer is getting me the #80 seal overnight. Rest of the bearings/seals were on the shelf at carquest. Timken or Koyo for all of them.
 
If by "hub" you mean #14 in your diagram in post #5, answer is no. I hope you mean "race", which isn't shown separately & is included in the bearings.
 
If by "hub" you mean #14 in your diagram in post #5, answer is no. I hope you mean "race", which isn't shown separately & is included in the bearings.

I mean #14. The surface of the hub, where the race drives in is toast. Couldn't tell till this AM after the whole thing soaked in diesel.

There is a difference?
 
I mean #14. The surface of the hub, where the race drives in is toast. Couldn't tell till this AM after the whole thing soaked in diesel.

There is a difference?

Working to answer my own question. SOR shows 2 different part numbers. Toyota parts system shows 2 different part numbers.

Looks like I'm on the hunt for a full floater hub, on a tight schedule. DAMNIT!
 
DOH! The disk conversion uses the same hub as the front. The original rear hub is long gone.

This thread is becoming more of a diary of my coming to understand my rear axle than anything else. :o
 
Greg, I got your Email. The hub on the full floater is still the stock one & is wider than a front hub. I forget who, but someone used to make a spacer to run a front hub on a full floater (goes between the hub & the axle flange).

The only diiferent parts from a front axle to the full floater is the hub & the outer seal (#80 in the diagram). The inner seal is the same as the front.

When I did the DB conversion on the axle, I used chevy parts in order to get a parking brake. It was very similar to a Semifloat DB conversion.
 
Also, post up a pic of the hub, it may be salvageable. Good thing it did not kill the spindle, you would have to replace the entire housing!
 
Greg, I got your Email. The hub on the full floater is still the stock one & is wider than a front hub. I forget who, but someone used to make a spacer to run a front hub on a full floater (goes between the hub & the axle flange).

The only diiferent parts from a front axle to the full floater is the hub & the outer seal (#80 in the diagram). The inner seal is the same as the front.

When I did the DB conversion on the axle, I used chevy parts in order to get a parking brake. It was very similar to a Semifloat DB conversion.

Thanks for the reply.

OK, so I'm still looking for a full floater hub, or the spacer. I'm guessing I can find a FF hub for the same money/trouble as finding 2 hubs and the spacer.

Also, post up a pic of the hub, it may be salvageable. Good thing it did not kill the spindle, you would have to replace the entire housing!

The hub is completely shot. I'll post some pics later on today. The spindle was messed up, but I was able to fix it with some emery cloth.

Thanks again.
 
lol

As I understood it the hub was the same as a front hub.

But you know that already ;)
 
Crappy phone pics.

In the hub pic you can kinda see the lack of shoulder where the race goes. Working up from the where the race fits, you can see where there should be that little ridge where above the top of the race. It's gone. If you drop the race in, it falls directly to the race flange. The only way I could see using this hub is to machine it, and I don't think there is enough metal. Plus, a different size race and bearing isn't a game I want to play. Hopefully I'll find a hub, I have 4 calls out right now.

In the spindle pic, it is of the cleaned up spindle. On the bottom of the visible part of the pic, on the last bit before the oil seal flange you can see where we cleaned it up. The bearing fits snug on there, and I feel good about it. You can also see the edge where the oil seal rides. It was all bunged up. Cleaned up ok. I don't think it will leak.

What is of real interest is the bearing and seal, visible in the left pic. See that white cloth in the drain pan? See that stack of rings? That's the old seal. See that big pile of goo next to it? That's the old bearing in a big glob of grease and metal shavings. :eek:
hub race.webp
spindle.webp
 
G&S - No answer
Rad Cruisers - none in stock
Kurt - quick answer - nope
Dearborn - no answer cause he's a tard. :rolleyes:
Spector - no answer (closed for pres day?)

$175 + shipping: On the way from man-a-fre. This part was expensive, but it's on the way. They stock the part, and know what I'm talking about when I call. Props. Thanks to a mud supporting vendor, it looks like I'll get to go to Big Bend after all.


















Until something else blows up. :popcorn:
 
Glad you were able to find one :cool:

For anyone wondering in the future. The rear Full-Float bearings (76'-97') are the exact same as the front wheel bearings (76'-97') :cool:
 
ouch! that is the problem with non-US parts. Atleast the spindle is ok. If you had more time, you could probably get someone to turn a spacer, butthat would require new, longer studs.

I think it was Rockbuggysupply that used to make those spacers, but I don't see them on thier page.

dont forget to inspect & repack the other side!
 

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