power steering pump removal

[vipergrhd]

i can't seem to find any post on pump removal and pics.the reason i'm posting is that i just started removing my p/s pump this afternoon and i just realize that the bolt in the back does not have enough room to be remove,it's right up against the exhaust manifold.i have remove the pulley,reservoir and other bolts that hold the pump,the only way that i coud see for this pump to come out is to remove the whole bracket.is there any tricks to this?i already have the kit to rebuid it just need to come out of the car,i'll be getting back on this in the morning.if you got any suggestion pease post up.thank you in advance. john

 

[2mbb]

Yeah, this has been covered before. When you do get it out, you should cut or grind a few threads off the bolt so it will come out easier next time.

Some people do take the bracket off. I've never done this. some people also grind/file the bolt head a little bit.

I have removed the insulator and the end bolt(s) from the exhaust manifold for the #1 cylinder. This is a separate piece from the center section and you might be able to get a little additional space for the bolt by pushing the end piece into the center section.

I have found that the stock bolt is not really too long but it has to be oriented just right to get the pump out. I unscrew the bolt all the way then hold onto the exposed shank with needle nose pliers (I use some large hemostats). using the correct combination of wiggling the bolt back and forth, pulling on the pump and cursing, the pump slides right out...

Good luck.

 

[mrlocksmith]

When I did mine I got so upset after 4-6 hours of trying to get that bolt off I put an 18" long blade in my sawzall an CAREFULLY cut the ****'en back bolt stem off the pump........ fealt nice to get that off. I then chucked my old PS pump as far as I could throw it !!! I took a dremel and cut back about three threads of the bolt and slid my new pump in.

Not the best way.. but I got 'er done.... I have also been told that you can get at the PS pump mount and take that off too but it looked like the smog pump was in the way.

Later


Mark

 

[vipergrhd]

mark,how are you?i hope that everything on your end is well,as for me i'm catching up on the stuff that needs fixing on my rig.since i don't have a sawzall i will remove the bracket tommorow and make adjustments to the bolt prior to installing it and there will be no chucking of pumps no matter how pissed i get.i will have to reseal this pump in order to save some $$$$$$.thank you for your suggestion. john

 

[bigDcruiser]

considering that i'm highly prone to cursing fits and other irrational acts when frustrated i'm glad i read this post prior to starting my pump rebuild. i've got the kit in the garage and plan to get the job done in the next week. i hope the heads up on this will help me keep a level head.

 

[Winston]

I removed the bracket - I found that to be straightforward. Then cut the bolt in the back so that if you ever have to do it again, it won't be an issue.
Getting to that bracket isn't the easiest thing either - my smog pump was out which made it easier.
There are 4 bolts in the bracket - one is way in the back.

 

[D'Animal]

When Toyota originally installed the pump they actually used a shorter bolt.

Look at your bolts when you get them all out. One will be shorter.

Some one may have not lined up the front of the exhaust manifold when they did a head gasket job, etc and let it stick too far forward.

 

[cruiserhunter]

PS steering Pump replacement write-up

Here is the write up i started. I can't get the pictures sized right to get them in here. If someone know a quick way to do this let me know.

Here it is. Good luck and if you have any question let me know.




Ok so here is my contribution to the forum. This community has helped me more times than I can count and I'm sure that will be true for a long, long time.

Much Thanks to Archie and Rob(Chitown) with out both of these people I would not have been able to do this.

So my Power Steering Pump up and started leaking all over the place. It was groaning and giving me virtually no help while driving. so after advice from the forum I attempted to rebuild the pump with a kit from Cdan. Well, that failed rather quickly with the rebuilt pump leaking almost immediately.

So I bit the ~$300 bullet and got a brand spankin new Power Steering Pump From CDan. Here is the install:

Tools:
You really don't need anything extensive. Here is what I used minus, Archie's BFH and various long pieces of iron.
TOOLS PIC


1.This is a smogged 1986 FJ60 so the first thing you have to do to get access is get all these vacuum hoses out of the way.
ENGINE SHOOT

2. I numbered the hoses and the nozzles cause I did not want to screw up the lines. You don't have to do this, i just gave me piece of mind.
VACUUM LINES WITH TAPE

3.Next you need to remove your intake hose, air filter assembly (10mm bolt on carb, 12mm passenger side), and two large black vacuum hoses(Flat head :
AIR FILTER OFF, HOSES

4. Now you can remove the High Pressure hose 17mm:

PRESSURE HOSE

5. Now remove the reservoir drain hose thing(Flat head)

RESERVOIR DRAIN

6. Remove the Pulley(17mm) DO THIS BEFORE YOU START LOOSENING THINGS!!! You need the tension from the belt to remove the pulley nut. Hold the belt and losen the nut securing the pulley. Now apply equal force on each side of the pulley and slide it off. Make sure you pull out the little half moon wood drif key it's tiny and easily lost.

WOOD DRIFT PIC


7. Now here is the hardest part of the install/reassembly. You must remove the 5 bolts that hold a bracket that holds the Power steering pump to the engine. It looks like you could just remove the bolts holding the PSP to the bracket. The front two come out easily. THe problem is the one in the back. THe bolt is too long and because the exhaust is so close you will be unable to back it out enough to pull out the PSP. You can try and get a saw in there and cut or you can try and remove the exhaust manifold, but I didn't want to try either of these. So you have to get an angled ratchet and get under there. Here is a picture of the 4 passenger side bolts. There is one in the front as well. This took the longest.

BOLT PICTURES

8. Now if you have gotten the bracket off, Congratulations. Now the PSP is sitting in your hands. To make your life infinitely easier grab that bolt that could not be backed out enough and grind it down. Get it short enough the work in that small area.


9. Put bracket in without PSP attached. This makes it a little easier to find the holes.

10. Install Power Steering Pump (three bolts)

11. Attach reservoir hose and High Pressure Hose.

12. Insert Wood drift key into slot and slide pulley on. Put belt on pulley. Tighten belt, tighten Nut that hold pulley on, don't forget the lock washer

13. Assemble Air intake and Vacuum Hoses

14. Fill with ATF Fluid

15. Bleed PSP: Lift front end of cruiser. Turn on rig and rotate wheel from one side to the other 3 times each side. Get out and check level. Add more and repeat till full.

16. Drive your truck around for a little bit and then when you get back to your place check for leaks.





Hope this helps someone. If you have any questions feel free to message me.

Thanks to Rob, Archie and Cdan.


Patrick

 

[vipergrhd]

it's out

finally got her out,you guys are right the bolt is just too long to be extracted with out removing the bracket.it took me about 40 mins. to removed the smog pump and bracket,there is 4 bolts holding the bracket 3 are under the exhaust and 1 is in the front next to the pump.i came up with an idea while looking at this set-up i will experiment tommorow of this idea it just might be the fix to solve this bolt issue.i'll be taking it to the shop in able to get everything cleaned and rebuild properly.i will try to post pics,i can't seem to figure how to minimize my pic sizes. john

 

[mrlocksmith]

John:

Glad you got it out ok. Have fun bleeding the air out of the lines when you put it back in.

Things are good. I will be giving "leaky" 4.11's for Christmas... they will be going on next week.

Cheers

Mark

 

[vipergrhd]

it's all clean now

the pump is comptely torn down,clean all the parts,flushed the reservoir and inspect for any wear internally.i did find the front bushing is showing some wear,nothing excessive.it is still w/in tolerance and the shoes are all in place and intact.it took me about 20 min to tear it down and clean all the small internal parts.

i will start to put it back together tommorow,i do have a question in regards to the o-rings that is in the kit,will i be able to use all the o=rings?and if there is left over how many?
while my smog pump was out i decided to open the darn thing,it did have some noise and i was curious what was inside (it's good to have pics)holy moly the thing is full of crap.most of it were dirt and a few metal stuff floating around i will try to clean it up and lubed the rear bearing.I HIGHLY SUGGEST THAT YOU DO NOT TRY THIS UNLESS YOUR READY TO BUY A REPLACEMENT JUST IN CASE YOU CAN'T REINSTALL IT.i will let you know on what will come out of this experiment. john

 

[60wag]

I decided against rebuilding the pump when I found the clearance between the ends of the rotor and the housing to be WAY out of spec.

 

[D'Animal]

I always have one little "O" ring left over.

 

[hank14]

Cruiserhunter's PS Removal Writeup w/ pics

From Cruiserhunter, "Ok so here is my contribution to the forum. This community has helped me more times than I can count and I'm sure that will be true for a long, long time.

Much Thanks to Archie and Rob(Chitown) with out both of these people I would not have been able to do this.

So my Power Steering Pump up and started leaking all over the place. It was groaning and giving me virtually no help while driving. so after advice from the forum I attempted to rebuild the pump with a kit from Cdan. Well, that failed rather quickly with the rebuilt pump leaking almost immediately.

So I bit the ~$300 bullet and got a brand spankin new Power Steering Pump From CDan. Here is the install:

Tools:
You really don't need anything extensive. Here is what I used minus, Archie's BFH and various long pieces of iron.

 

[hank14]

1.This is a smogged 1986 FJ60 so the first thing you have to do to get access is get all these vacuum hoses out of the way.

 

[hank14]

2. I numbered the hoses and the nozzles cause I did not want to screw up the lines. You don't have to do this, i just gave me piece of mind.

 

[hank14]

3.Next you need to remove your intake hose, air filter assembly (10mm bolt on carb, 12mm passenger side), and two large black vacuum hoses (Flat head)

4. Now you can remove the High Pressure hose 17mm:

5. Now remove the reservoir drain hose thing(Flat head)

6. Remove the Pulley(17mm) DO THIS BEFORE YOU START LOOSENING THINGS!!! You need the tension from the belt to remove the pulley nut. Hold the belt and losen the nut securing the pulley. Now apply equal force on each side of the pulley and slide it off. Make sure you pull out the little half moon wood drif key it's tiny and easily lost.

 

[hank14]

7. Now here is the hardest part of the install/reassembly. You must remove the 5 bolts that hold a bracket that holds the Power steering pump to the engine. It looks like you could just remove the bolts holding the PSP to the bracket. The front two come out easily. THe problem is the one in the back. THe bolt is too long and because the exhaust is so close you will be unable to back it out enough to pull out the PSP. You can try and get a saw in there and cut or you can try and remove the exhaust manifold, but I didn't want to try either of these. So you have to get an angled ratchet and get under there. Here is a picture of the 4 passenger side bolts. There is one in the front as well. This took the longest.

8. Now if you have gotten the bracket off, Congratulations. Now the PSP is sitting in your hands. To make your life infinitely easier grab that bolt that could not be backed out enough and grind it down. Get it short enough the work in that small area.


9. Put bracket in without PSP attached. This makes it a little easier to find the holes.

10. Install Power Steering Pump (three bolts)

11. Attach reservoir hose and High Pressure Hose.

12. Insert Wood drift key into slot and slide pulley on. Put belt on pulley. Tighten belt, tighten Nut that hold pulley on, don't forget the lock washer

13. Assemble Air intake and Vacuum Hoses

14. Fill with ATF Fluid

15. Bleed PSP: Lift front end of cruiser. Turn on rig and rotate wheel from one side to the other 3 times each side. Get out and check level. Add more and repeat till full.

16. Drive your truck around for a little bit and then when you get back to your place check for leaks.

Hope this helps someone. If you have any questions feel free to message me.

Thanks to Rob, Archie and Cdan.

Patrick aka "cruiserhunter"

 

[D'Animal]

Great write Up!

#15 you should have your rig running.

Block the back tires. Go lock to lock on your steering several times, sometimes 15 times, depending on how much fluid you lost. Check and refill as needed.

 

[Tvaldriz]

Thanks for the great write-up

Cruiserhunter:

This was an excellent write-up. Clear and well-illustrated.

Speaking as a neophyte mechanic, it will inspire me to do the deed
when my pump fails. Half the fun of owning these old rigs is figuring
out how to keep em on the road.

Can we get your write-up put somewhere as a sticky? For future
reference?

Tom