bar oil vs. Fluid Film on the frame

[forestdan7]

I'm trying to decide how to keep my desert 60 frame from rusting in the wet and salty Kentucky winters. It came from southern Colorado, and in the two years I've had it, I can already see the surface turning red and the delamination happening between the frame and the inner channel.

I've read a lot of posts on oiling it, painting it, etc. I think I'd rather do the yearly oiling. I scraped, cleaned, and painted the frame on my 4Runner a year ago, and it's flaking already. I don't have the space, tools, or will to take the body off and POR15 the whole thing right.

Sounds like bar and chain oil is the ticket, since it kills rust (phosphoric acid) and coats really well. And it's cheap. But will bar oil degrade my rubber body and spring bushings?

If so, would using Fluid Film be better? And does Fluid Film kill rust like bar oil or rust converter would?

 

[RockDoc]

I've used fluid film before, but didn't keep an eye on it, so can't really comment on how well it worked. Not cheap though. I was just at Princess Auto and they want $13 for an aerosol can. Wonder if I can find it in the gallon cans somewhere?

Thinking about reapplying some again this year. Maybe I'll give the frame a good spray-down with phosphoric acid first to do some neutralizing/converting before oiling it.

Want to do a proper POR job, but that would take mucho time and effort....

Don't have any experience with bar oil.

 

[brownbear]

I still really like LPS 3. It's a rust inhibitor and stays kinda waxy.

second choice; I would mix grease and kerosene. Then use an undercoat gun or engine siphon sprayer and giver in the frame.

 

[RockDoc]

I still really like LPS 3. It's a rust inhibitor and stays kinda waxy..

Where would you find this stuff? Is it a common product for aviation equipment? Have you ever used Fluid Film for comparison?

 

[iaintscared1969]

LPS-3 you can get it from Grainger or RSHughes.com Great stuff I use it all the time at work and it doesn't wash off. And it comes in a spray can

 

[MT-PTK]

A lot of John Deere places seem to carry the Fluid Film. I might be mistaken, but I thought I saw 1 gallon cans of FF for $25 on line?

I'm still considering the FF for mine. Have to make up my mind quick though and get it done.



William

 

[forestdan7]

My local John Deere dealer carries Fluid Film. I haven't checked on the price, though.

On Amazon right now: LPS 3 1 gallon can 4 pack for $41.13, lists at $252.21. Can this be right? If so, I'm ordering some today. $82 shipping, though.

I'm guessing since it says no chlorinated solvents that it won't affect rubber bushings?

Anybody else have experience with bar oil?

 

[ellington12]

the Eastwood company carries quite a few rust prevention/treatment products. they also have a discussion forum much like this one all about dealing with rust. might be worth checking out:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=372

 

[forestdan7]

the Eastwood company carries quite a few rust prevention/treatment products. they also have a discussion forum much like this one all about dealing with rust. might be worth checking out:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=372

Good site. Thanks for the tip.

 

[bkfj40]

I've also heard of using kerosene and parafin wax. The kerosene will melt the wax and then after the kerosene dissipates, it leaves the wax....

I use a combination of 20w50 from the leaking gaskets on the engine and gear oil leaking from the transfercase to undercoat my 60...it works great! Keep in mind, my truck isn't leaking oil, it is just marking its territory


bk

 

[ellington12]

I use a combination of 20w50 from the leaking gaskets on the engine and gear oil leaking from the transfercase to undercoat my 60...it works great! Keep in mind, my truck isn't leaking oil, it is just marking its territory


bk

i use the same method myself...waterproofs the asphalt in front of my house really well too!

 

[RockDoc]

I've also heard of using kerosene and parafin wax. The kerosene will melt the wax and then after the kerosene dissipates, it leaves the wax....

I use a combination of 20w50 from the leaking gaskets on the engine and gear oil leaking from the transfercase to undercoat my 60...it works great! Keep in mind, my truck isn't leaking oil, it is just marking its territory


bk

My truck must have come as a base model. The automatic oiler only covers the front half of the underbody. ;p

 

[brownbear]

Where would you find this stuff? Is it a common product for aviation equipment? Have you ever used Fluid Film for comparison?

my local napa sells it in many sizes.

I have used fluid flim, which is also sold at my local napa. I find it thinner than the lps 3. But still nice stuff.

LPS 3 doesn't seem to affect rubber that I can tell... I normally pay about 80 something a gallon.

 

[RockDoc]

my local napa sells it in many sizes.

I have used fluid flim, which is also sold at my local napa. I find it thinner than the lps 3. But still nice stuff.

LPS 3 doesn't seem to affect rubber that I can tell... I normally pay about 80 something a gallon.

Good to know, just hadn't heard of it before, so I thought it was an odd-ball.

 

[Greg_B]

I'm trying to decide how to keep my desert 60 frame from rusting in the wet and salty Kentucky winters. It came from southern Colorado, and in the two years I've had it, I can already see the surface turning red and the delamination happening between the frame and the inner channel.

I've read a lot of posts on oiling it, painting it, etc. I think I'd rather do the yearly oiling. I scraped, cleaned, and painted the frame on my 4Runner a year ago, and it's flaking already. I don't have the space, tools, or will to take the body off and POR15 the whole thing right.

Sounds like bar and chain oil is the ticket, since it kills rust (phosphoric acid) and coats really well. And it's cheap. But will bar oil degrade my rubber body and spring bushings?

If so, would using Fluid Film be better? And does Fluid Film kill rust like bar oil or rust converter would?

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ = penetrates really well, and seems to do what they claim. I like it as the creeping layer, and for touch ups. I've used it for all sorts of things around the house and shop.

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/detail/?id=182

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...CEK3_nid=GSN0TVP2FXgs6DTWTJQPBBglGSWVD05DY2bl

http://www.boeshield.com/ = leaves a thin wax base much like the LPS3.

http://www.lpslabs.com/products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

http://www.rustcheck.com/products.asp

http://www.krown.com/ = edited into post for history

All come in liquid or aerosol form. I notice Fluid Film is now selling an applicator. EDIT = Contacted the Fluid Film people and they pointed me to Eastwoods Undercoating gun for good results: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1126&itemType=PRODUCT

Last year I sprayed the undercarriage of our vehicles with fluidfilm, then toped with 3M. This year I tried rust check, and topped with Proform. The rust check seems to have creeped well, but it very drippy during and after application, so back to fluid film for the creeping coat for me. Inside the frame rails is a witches brew of Fluid Film, 3M, Rust Check...and I think some remaining Boeshield went into the gun too. (have the dominion sure seal gun: http://www.dominionsureseal.com/productsdetails.asp?id=289&catid=28

Both the automotive application waxed based products seem to leave a heavier coating then the Boeshield or LPS3 after the carrier has evaporated.

If time is on your side I would be inclined to use the Fluid Film on the entire undercarriage and inside the framerails, let creep a day then coat with a heavy wax based product. Winter is now upon us, and if time is not available I would simply spray the crap out of it with fluid film, wait till the summer, clean, then spray with fluid film and then use a few coats of a wax based product. Don't forget to get into the body panels, doors, rear gates, body mount cavities, front clip, etc.

However...something is better then nothing. Make sure you are liberal in use, and get to as many hidden spots and the typical 60 series rust areas with whatever product you decide to use...not just the framerails.

hth's

gb

 

[MT-PTK]

I'm wondering if one of those big pump sprayers would work well for applying the Fluid Film? Pour a gallon into to it, pump it up to pressurize, and then spray away.

William

 

[Zack1978]

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/ = penetrates really well, and seems to do what they claim. I like it as the creeping layer, and for touch ups. I've used it for all sorts of things around the house and shop.

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/detail/?id=182

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...CEK3_nid=GSN0TVP2FXgs6DTWTJQPBBglGSWVD05DY2bl

http://www.boeshield.com/ = leaves a thin wax base much like the LPS3.

http://www.lpslabs.com/products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

http://www.rustcheck.com/products.asp

All come in liquid or aerosol form. I notice Fluid Film is now selling an applicator.

Last year I sprayed the undercarriage of our vehicles with fluidfilm, then toped with 3M. This year I tried rust check, and topped with Proform. The rust check seems to have creeped well, but it very drippy during and after application, so back to fluid film for the creeping coat for me. Inside the frame rails is a witches brew of Fluid Film, 3M, Rust Check...and I think some remaining Boeshield went into the gun too.

Both the automotive application waxed based products seem to leave a heavier coating then the Boeshield or LPS3 after the carrier has evaporated.

If time is on your side I would be inclined to use the Fluid Film on the entire undercarriage and inside the framerails, let creep a day then coat with a heavy wax based product. Winter is now upon us, and if time is not available I would simply spray the crap out of it with fluid film, wait till the summer, clean, then spray with fluid film and then use a few coats of a wax based product. Don't forget to get into the body panels, doors, rear gates, body mount cavities, front clip, etc.

However...something is better then nothing. Make sure you are liberal in use, and get to as many hidden spots and the typical 60 series rust areas with whatever product you decide to use...not just the framerails.

hth's

gb

Can you point me to the applicator that you are talking about?

Thanks,
Zack

 

[MT-PTK]

Can you point me to the applicator that you are talking about?

Thanks,
Zack

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/about/bulk.html



William

 

[Greg_B]

I'm wondering if one of those big pump sprayers would work well for applying the Fluid Film? Pour a gallon into to it, pump it up to pressurize, and then spray away.William

http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/globals/faq.html

Can you use a pump type sprayer to spray Fluid Film® in the bulk form?
No. Fluid Film® needs to be sprayed at 60-80 psi. We recommend standard airless paint spraying equipment for best results.

gb

 

[MT-PTK]

Thanks, I missed that.



William