You can also use an old manual pump fire extinguisher, pressurize it, fill it with your choice of oily fluid and go to work.
bar oil vs. Fluid Film on the frame (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter forestdan7
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In addition to the above mentioned brands, the Wurth wax based products are apparently very good. Used by some OEM in the panels at the manufacturing level if I heard correctly.
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=06.0511.jpg
And the gun: http://wurthindustry.thomasnet.com/...h-multi-sprayer-system?&plpver=1004&forward=1
hth's
gb
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=06.0511.jpg
And the gun: http://wurthindustry.thomasnet.com/...h-multi-sprayer-system?&plpver=1004&forward=1
hth's
gb
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for all the great info, you all. That's exactly the kind of comparisons I was looking for.
First snow is forecast tonight, so the roads in Kentucky will be salty as seawater. I think I'll pick up some Fluid Film this weekend at the John Deere dealer and set into it.
First snow is forecast tonight, so the roads in Kentucky will be salty as seawater. I think I'll pick up some Fluid Film this weekend at the John Deere dealer and set into it.
Undercoating Spray Gun
Guardair makes a spay gun for this stuff along with an extension sprayer to get down the frame, I have one on order.
Here is the link:
http://www.guardaircorp.com/content/spraygun.html
Scroll down to undercoating spray gun.
Mark
Guardair makes a spay gun for this stuff along with an extension sprayer to get down the frame, I have one on order.
Here is the link:
http://www.guardaircorp.com/content/spraygun.html
Scroll down to undercoating spray gun.
Mark
Last edited:
Zack...nice bit of work on assembling the links.
Here in California we get a bit lax on the rust preventative front...but good info.
Thanks.
Here in California we get a bit lax on the rust preventative front...but good info.
Thanks.
sort of hijack sort of not.....to what are you referring? POR?
Zack, no offence, but the acalades should of gone Greg Bs direction.
My Bad.
My Bad.
POR-15 (paint over rust).
http://www.por15.com/
Reputed to be one of the best coatings (a paint) for dealing with already rusty stuff. Takes alot of prep to do the job properly though. I have a gallon of the stuff sitting in my deep freeze.. Started working at stripping the frame of old undercoating and loose rust, but gave up after a few days of putzing with it... one day I'll get back to it.
I used it on a bunch of stuff when I worked over my axles in the summer (parts that were off and easy to clean up and prep) and like the way it is holding up.
Mark, thanks for the link. I ordered two gallons of Fluid Film off ebay for, like $59 and was looking for an applicator. I was gonna use my paint equipment but this looks much better and it can fit into the rear quarters much easier. Thanks again!
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You really shouldn't need to buy anything. Just use your old engine/tranny oil. Mix in a little4 kerosene, pour into a used spray bottle, and go nuts.
Check this article out:
http://4wdtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/05/controlling-rust-spray-it-on.html
Check this article out:
http://4wdtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/05/controlling-rust-spray-it-on.html
That might work on the underside but I think it would stink me out if I used it in the quarter panels.........
I recall reading or being told some years ago to AVOID using used engine oil for this purpose, because of the acids that used oil contains, which may in fact promote rather then prevent further corrosion. So you may want to research into this before going this way. THis thread has a lot of great products identified that are designed for the job, so unless you really want to go cheap on this, you might be advised to use a more suitable product.
There are also some other products available in Canada (probably not in the US though), and that are used by dealer chains of rust-proofing companies: Rust-Check (which is available at Canadian Tire stores across Canada, in spray can or liter cans) and Krown (which I think you can buy from the places that do the application). For my money, I'd rather take my truck to a good Krown shop (one that lays it on thick, and takes the time to get it into all the nooks and crannies) than try to do the messy job myself in the driveway, but in the end, I suppose no one can do a more thorough job than yourself!
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Anyone who claims that engine oil, used or not, promotes the growth of rust, only wants to sell you something.
Yeah I know what you mean, but there _was_ a rather logical sounding issue related to the acidity of the used engine oil, which I found rather convincing. WIsh I remember where I read that. ANyway, the point was that if you're going to go engine oil route, it might be wiser to go with fresh (unused) oil. Little cost, for whatever amount you would need to spray inside frame rails and such. Some years ago, I also ran into people who were using a combination of chainsaw oil and kerosene, and using that to spray the underside of their cars, indicating that chainsaw oil is thinner and creeps more than engine oil, especially when thinned out with kerosene. Lot of recipes out there, the Brits have they Waxoyl that they swear by. Bottom line is to keep exposed metal parts that are prone to rust with oil of some sort, which prevents water and water-soluble products (like salt!) from making contact with the metal surface. I'm no engineer, mind you...
We have always used a diesel - used oil mix in our road sanders that carry straight salt. Those old steel sanders lasted about 13 years. We still use it on the conveyers and chains on the new one. Just used an old 2 gallon pump sprayer. Works great!
I thought I'd try to find the reference to that information I had come across some years ago advising not to use old engine oil for rust proofing. So far, have only come up with this:
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=20840
A scientific study [wish I knew where to find that!] about 30 years ago showed that old engine oil did more harm than good because of the acids it contained and new engine oil was no good eeither because the dust particles it holds provide a passage for dampness and salt.
http://osdir.com/ml/culture.cars.volkswagen.diesel/2003-12/msg00023.html
Someone suggested used engine oil. This should never be used since the acids in it will eat through the body sheet metal faster than salt water. I live in Nova Scotia and we have about the worst conditions that exist for vehicle rust. Winter temperatures are often at freezing with salt used on the roads and air-borne salt spray often going a 100 km inland. In my experience the best product is Rust Check. It looks like ATF but has a unique creeping ability that allows it to get into the seams. To prevent exterior seam rust I have been using a fine art brush (paint by numbers size) to apply the Rust Check fluid into the seams. The caulking in the seams deteriorates over time and moisture sits in there. Rust Check displaces water. Rust Check is available in Canada at most automotive retailers in small spray cans and 4 liter jugs for application with spray equipment. If you want even more protection, apply the Rust Check to the inside of the panels and the undercarriage (always best to undercoat in the summer when the fluid runs nicely in the heat) and follow up a couple of weeks later with a thicker product such as Krown or Fluid Film to just the undercarriage. You will get dirty when doing mechanical repairs but you should be able to stop further rusting.
http://www.wearcheck.ca/literature/techdoc/WZA002.htm
The net effect of prolonged oxidation is that chemically, the oil becomes acidic causing corrosion [i.e. inside the engine].
Anyway, not too conclusive I admit, but I suppose it's these kinds of references I came across over the years that steered me away from using old engine oil for rust-proofing, and rather using the products designed for the job (which I agree, are obviously more expensive to use than used oil).
Anyway, in case this helps. If not, forget I ever said anything and don't worry about it!
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=20840
A scientific study [wish I knew where to find that!] about 30 years ago showed that old engine oil did more harm than good because of the acids it contained and new engine oil was no good eeither because the dust particles it holds provide a passage for dampness and salt.
http://osdir.com/ml/culture.cars.volkswagen.diesel/2003-12/msg00023.html
Someone suggested used engine oil. This should never be used since the acids in it will eat through the body sheet metal faster than salt water. I live in Nova Scotia and we have about the worst conditions that exist for vehicle rust. Winter temperatures are often at freezing with salt used on the roads and air-borne salt spray often going a 100 km inland. In my experience the best product is Rust Check. It looks like ATF but has a unique creeping ability that allows it to get into the seams. To prevent exterior seam rust I have been using a fine art brush (paint by numbers size) to apply the Rust Check fluid into the seams. The caulking in the seams deteriorates over time and moisture sits in there. Rust Check displaces water. Rust Check is available in Canada at most automotive retailers in small spray cans and 4 liter jugs for application with spray equipment. If you want even more protection, apply the Rust Check to the inside of the panels and the undercarriage (always best to undercoat in the summer when the fluid runs nicely in the heat) and follow up a couple of weeks later with a thicker product such as Krown or Fluid Film to just the undercarriage. You will get dirty when doing mechanical repairs but you should be able to stop further rusting.
http://www.wearcheck.ca/literature/techdoc/WZA002.htm
The net effect of prolonged oxidation is that chemically, the oil becomes acidic causing corrosion [i.e. inside the engine].
Anyway, not too conclusive I admit, but I suppose it's these kinds of references I came across over the years that steered me away from using old engine oil for rust-proofing, and rather using the products designed for the job (which I agree, are obviously more expensive to use than used oil).
Anyway, in case this helps. If not, forget I ever said anything and don't worry about it!
Ok, one more and then I'm out of here.
Have a read at this cached article in Google.
http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cach...th&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=12&gl=ca&client=firefox-a
About health issues associated with used crankcase engine oil in general. The exposure in using it for rust-proofing purposes may or may not be something you may want to consider, but in case it's important to you this article may be useful to you.
There's also the potential issue of having that used (contaminated) engine oil eventually being washed off the underside of the car and winding up you know where...
Food for thought, at least.
Cheers!
Have a read at this cached article in Google.
http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cach...th&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=12&gl=ca&client=firefox-a
About health issues associated with used crankcase engine oil in general. The exposure in using it for rust-proofing purposes may or may not be something you may want to consider, but in case it's important to you this article may be useful to you.
There's also the potential issue of having that used (contaminated) engine oil eventually being washed off the underside of the car and winding up you know where...
Food for thought, at least.
Cheers!
