Throw Out Touching Pressure Plate at Idle

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May 11, 2006
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So I have to replace my leaking master and do the slave while I am in there (got the parts today from CDan..thanks dude) ....but I have noticed that I have that ticking/clicking sound coming from the clutch at idle....there is a slight squeak that sounds like a cricket when you first engage the clutch pedal and then when you release it....I am assuming due to a leaky master.

I pulled the inspection cover today and got under there...moved the fork up and down a bit and the squeak went away...then I noticed that the throw out bearing was contacting the pressure plate and spinning causing a vibration and squeak..at IDLE....if I push on the fork against the slave it disengages the throwout bearing and it slows and stops.....

Is it normal for the TO bearing to be in contact with the pressure plate at idle...doesn't that mean that it is wearing out and pressing the plate all the time?

Should I expect this correct itself when I swap the slave and master...

I know that there is no adjustment on my 87' 60 so could it be that the slave/master combo is shot and putting extra pressure on the fork?

Thanks in advance....yes I have searched this one...no clear answer to be found.

Matt
 
eastendmedic,

you are correct; the throwout bearing should not be spinning with your foot off of the clutch pedal. you should have a bit of free play at the clutch pedal and this is adjustable, (if you're talking about a FJ60.) the throwout bearing isn't designed to constantly spin so if it's constantly in contact with the clutch fingers, it will wear out quickly.

the adjustment is at the clutch pedal on the rod that presses into the clutch master cylinder. if you can't adjust it to get any free play, your clutch disc may be worn out. if your clutch engages at the very top of your pedal, you may want to start planning for a clutch. as the clutch disc wears, the fingers move back towards the throwout bearing.

it's possible that a new slave and master cylinder will solve your problem. perhaps the internals are gunked up preventing free movement. what does your clutch fluid look like?
 
My clutch engages low to the floor...the adjustment bolt is all the way out (not really touching the pedal).....the fluid looks black and nasty....I will be swapping out the master and slave.....there is lots of free play on the pedal....it almost seems kinda loose.....

The fork is pushing in on the TO bearing a little and to get it off the pressure plate I have to push the fork against the slave push rod so the rod is going back into the slave...not out....

Any ideas?
 
Any ideas?

Replace the hydraulics first. Then adjust the clutch as described in the FSM.
1. set the pedal height
2. Adjust the pedal play at the master push rod so that the end of the rod is just nearly touching the master piston when the piston is at rest and all the way out. This makes sure that you will get the max stroke from the cyl.
3. Adjust the slave - fork play so that the TO bearing is not touching the pressure plate fingers.
 
Where do you adjust the slave?

Where is the adjusment for the slave? I have looked at it and in the FSM....this is an 87 Fj60......I don't see anywhere to adjust the slave...am I missing something?
 
no adjustment on slave after 4/85......
 
Just a little something I'd like to pass along: when you change the hydraulics, do the master first, then the slave. Otherwise, you could be bleeding the sucker for 2 days, like I was because I pulled master & slave at the same time. The fluid can run out the line & get air pockets in it that can be a real pain to get out. Of course, if you plug the end of the line, you can avoid that, too. I always think of these things too late! If you really want to do it right, flush the old units out with fresh fluid before removal.
 
I have an 83 Fj60 and it had adjustable slave rod on it with a spring to pull the fork away from the release bearing, I understand yours is not adjustable but maybe it did have a spring and is missing just my 2 cents worth.
Jimmy
 
Did and 87' have a spring?

I looked in the FSM and the SOR site...there is a spring for the slave as far as I can see for a slave up until 85'...makes sense though....

Anyone have a spring on their slave who has an 86' or later?
 
All Done.

Replaced Master/Slave today no real issues....clutch engages closer to floor than top of pedal stroke.....set the height and free play as per FSM.......shifts nicely...and knock on wood...no leaks....BUT.........

The throwout bearing is still touching the pressure plate at idle......if I push the fork about 2-3mm towards the slave....it disengages....should I rig up a spring like the older models....

What else could this be? A bad fork....the TO bearing spins nicely.....when the engine is stopped and Push the fork towards the slave. Pressure plate?.....

The only issue is the contact of the TO bearing to the Pressure plate...no clutch slippage....

Help!!
 
Last edited:
I was not aware the the TO bearing should not touch. I just did my clutch and now I am wondering if mine is touching the pressure plate. I have a feeling that it is. I'm going to pull the cluch cover off and see whats touching what.

Do you have a spring that pulls the clutch fork back to the open position? If yes might want to replace that may get you the 2-3mm you are needing.
 
The only issue is the contact of the TO bearing to the Pressure plate...no clutch slippage....

Help!!

they all do after '85... same holds true for pickups and 4-runners.....you'll just have to get over it...
 
Thanks Grant!

I was getting very frustrated.

It still makes a little noise...but the throwout bearing is spinning freely, so I guess I am ok for now.

What is the benefit of having it touch all the time? Doesn't that seem a little weird for Toyota to design?

I guess I will live with it.....but I was already thinking about drilling a small hole in the fork and fabricating a spring seat to put a little pressure on the fork....but that will probably wear out the slave faster. Oh well.....I will see what happens.

Thanks.

matt
 
I have an '82 and it occaissionally make the noise you describe. It seems like sometimes its resting against it and sometimes its not. I have the spring and I've adjusted it a couple times. I'm wondering if I have to keep experimenting with the adjustment to get it right. Any others with older models experience out there?
 
I've been trying to sort out this squeaky bering problem for years. I have disassembled the entire system, read and re-read the FSM.
As stated above, the 85+ t.o. bearing seems to be engineered to always contact the plate fingers. The return spring inside the slave always returns pressure onto the fork and touches the bearing to the plate.

I welded a small tab on the fork and ran a spring to the rear slave bolt, so far it seems to work well at preventing the squeak, but it does vary the clutch disengagement point depending on how far the spring pulls the fork back.
The engagement, on the other hand, is still just as consistent as always.

still working on it.

Need to check on a pre 85 slave/fork swap.
 
The 'newer' clutch system doesn't need adjustment.

If you have the 'newer' system and attach a 'pull back' spring to the fork to unload the TO Bearing, you will find as time goes by, more pedel throw is needed to open the clutch (the 'gap' 'tween to & fingers gets wider as clutch disk gets thinner)
 
After 4/85 the throwout bearing rode on the Pplate all the time. there is a weak spring inside the slave that pushes it out. Just the way it is designed. No clutch fork return spring on these later rigs. Just like n the mini-trucks.

If you don't line the OEM configuration (I don't myself), just add a return spring and an adjustable slave cylinder rod and be done with it.


Mark...
 
Nope. I put a return spring on the slave. If the pushrod is so short that I have excessive freeplay, I make a new one (plain old all thread works great).

Spring plate? you mean the pressure plate right? No difference.

Housing? Bellhousing? Minor differences, but completely interchangable.


Mark...
 

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