Throw Out Touching Pressure Plate at Idle

[archtimb]

So, if I'm going new, it looks like I can use a pre '85 slave and have it adjustable.

)

I think the spring plate he might be talking about is the little plate that mounts behind the slave for the spring to attach to. If that's the case, Kev, I got you covered!

Mitch

 

[fliphkd778]

man, that noise has been driving me crazy, I have the exact same problem

 

[kevinmrowland]

Oh, damnit, now I am really confused.

I have a real hack job on mine right now because I just keep trying things I think of.

At the moment I have a tab welded on the end of my late clutch fork that holds a spring, that runs to a hole in a fender washer that I bolted on behind one of the two late model slave bolts. This pulls back on the fork arm, pushing it into the clutch slave and compressing the internal return spring of the slave, consequently letting the T.O. bearing pull away from the fingers of the pressure plate. (this also required cutting about 1/4" off the slave push pin)

I do not like this setup because it results in inconsistencies in the pedal free-play (depending on how far the two springs that are now doing battle compress each other)

Mark, what do you attach a return spring to? I assume that, since you mentioned the push rod being to short, you are affixing a spring from the slave to somewhere on the slave. Inside?

If the parts are interchangeable can you just drop an early fork in and bolt an early slave on to the late "3F" bellhousing? Would you need to swap both slave and fork? You would if you wanted a place to attach the return spring on the fork, but you could just weld a tab on to the late one as well, but the late fork has a divit for the push rod and the early fork has a hole, and I think they are different lengths, and...........

 

[Mark W]

Oh, damnit, now I am really confused.

I have a real hack job on mine right now because I just keep trying things I think of.

At the moment I have a tab welded on the end of my late clutch fork that holds a spring, that runs to a hole in a fender washer that I bolted on behind one of the two late model slave bolts. This pulls back on the fork arm, pushing it into the clutch slave and compressing the internal return spring of the slave, consequently letting the T.O. bearing pull away from the fingers of the pressure plate. (this also required cutting about 1/4" off the slave push pin)

I do not like this setup because it results in inconsistencies in the pedal free-play (depending on how far the two springs that are now doing battle compress each other)

Mark, what do you attach a return spring to? I assume that, since you mentioned the push rod being to short, you are affixing a spring from the slave to somewhere on the slave. Inside?

If the parts are interchangeable can you just drop an early fork in and bolt an early slave on to the late "3F" bellhousing? Would you need to swap both slave and fork? You would if you wanted a place to attach the return spring on the fork, but you could just weld a tab on to the late one as well, but the late fork has a divit for the push rod and the early fork has a hole, and I think they are different lengths, and...........

By its very nature, the return spring has to go betwenn the end of the fork and something solidl mounted to the bell housing (clutch slave cylinder bolt head works fine).

Drill a hole in the fork for the spring, weld a tab, whatever. Don't worry about the hole VS divot. Trim the end of the rod if need be.

You can swap the early slave in, but really the only difference betweeen it and the later one is the weak spring in the cylinder. Any return spring you install will overpower it anyway

Mark...

 

[archtimb]

Never mind that idea. I do not seem to have an early slave lying around to look at, but I do have a bell housing from an 81. The mount for the slave is only one hole and a machined taper, so I have to assume the early slave mounts differently.

Thanks for the tips, Mark. I believe I will attack it your way. The early and late forks are different. See this:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=150639
Look for the photo posted by Godwin. It looks like the early fork on a late bell would place the center of the throw out bearing off.

Mitch

 

[kevinmrowland]

Mark, do you get the inconsistencies in pedal freeplay that I mentioned?
Other than it being a hack job, my setup seems to be just what you describe, it works fine but the springs fighting each other moves the free play around a bit.

 

[archtimb]

What about taking Mark's idea one step further...threaded rod, coupling nut and a stop nut? Makes your own adjustable slave.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Huh? what would that accomplish?
It is not about having it adjustable. it is a matter of the slave having an internal spring that always pushes the rod out, that spring makes up for whatever length the push rod is "adjusted" to.

Actually, now that I think about it, the 1/4" I cut off the push rod was for a previous idea, doesn't matter with my current setup.
I do not think any adjustment is needed?
The adjustment on the earlier slave must have just been for pedal freeplay, the post 85s adjust that at the pedal/master interface.

 

[archtimb]

OK then. You need a stronger spring to pull against the slave, AND an adjustable rod to accurately gauge how far the throw out moves back, which will also fine tune your freeplay.

Right?

Oh, and sorry for the post hijack, but I guess we are all working towards the same goal. Just kinda thinking out load here...

Mitch

 

[84CRUISER]

as long as the to is not applying any pressure to the pressure plate at all, just sits there and rattles, the system is fine. If the noise is driving you crazy, throw a spring on it. The only other thing is make sure the TO arm is clipped on the pivot correctly. You could be losing room there.

 

[Mark W]

I guess I wasn't clear. I do use a couple of nuts on the allthread so as to make it adjustable. And the internal spring is very weak. I have not had any problems with the return spring not countering it completely. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to remove the internal spring and re-bleed the system.


Mark...

 

[Kevin Anderson]

Has anyone done this lately. This noise is driving me nuts on my post 85 60. I think if the slave push rod was shorter is would actually return enough and not squeal without an added return spring. All I have to do is barely push the fork toward the slave and the noise goes away. I don't have a welder or I would try and rig something up with a spring before it makes me drive off a cliff.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Get a rod from a 40 and use that. You then will be able to adjust it. I do this on my conversions depending on the adapter they used, and it still looks stock.

 

[Kevin Anderson]

if I put on an adjustable rod from a 40 then will I have to drill a hole in the clutch fork for the rod to go through?

Does the return spring in the slave just get weak over time. Maybe if I just replace the whole slave which would have a fresh return spring the rod will go back in further and stop pushing out the fork. I could just hack off a bit of the rod but then I worry it might be too short to work the clutch fork.

 

[iaintscared1969]

That could be a the solution by changing the slave, But atleast you have options now.

 

[Kevin Anderson]

Well I replaced the slave and at first the noise went away but it came back. The good thing is that the clutch operates much smoother. I think I'm going to try shortening the extra push rod off the old slave and see if that works. Then I will try using at adjustable push rod or something. I'm trying everything before replacing the thowout bearing since I can't afford to have the truck down because it is my daily driver.

 

[Kevin Anderson]

Last night I shortened the push rod a bit and still have the noise, not quite as bad. I guess the only solution is to put a spring on it which means I am going to have to buy a welder. Does anyone have a pic of this particular rig job, the spring addition that is.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Make or buy a small L bracket from HomeDepot. Drill the hole in the arm and the bracket. Use a universal spring from Autozone that you can shorten yourself and that should do it. Sorry at work and can't get to my pic's.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Found this pic on the search...

 

[Kevin Anderson]

Thanks!